125-200cc No spark - 2012 WR150

Bike died with no spark half way through an enduro last weekend resulting in a couple miles of pushing. First question: is this a known problem with the 125/150s?

For troubleshooting, I know I need to start simple and go from there. I need to check kill switch, plug cap, coil, CDI...just not sure how, what readings I should be looking for. Any advice?

Thanks.

1st question: No, not any more common than any other bike. How many hours are on it? Is it still under warranty?

Like you said, start simple, by the cheap / easy fixes. As far as multi-meter readings, I can't help you there, but others will chime in.

DO you have a Peak Voltage adapter for a Digi Multimeter? Peak voltage readings are always more reliable than ohms readings. I'll bring mine home and try to get you some values later.....

If anything I say seems obvious, no offense intended, just trying to cover all the bases in one shot!

OK here is the deal with the ignition on 2012 CR. Hopefully WR is the same wire collors. there will be more wires from the stator due to the lighting coil, but the exciter coil and pulser values should be the same. Hopefully the wire colors are the same.

When ohming wires, do not touch the leads with your fingers to hold the connection, it will disrupt the values. Make sure all "contacts" are insulated, let the wire connector and lead touch only each other.

Follow the stator wires to the plug. A cr has 4 wires but you will probably have 5 or 6 on a wr due to the lighting coil. The green and solid red are the pulsergenerator coil (to trigger the cdi to release spark). Ohming mine registered 97 ohms but I'd say 85-110 would be an acceptable range. Bothe wires should be open to ground (no continuity), when testing between each lead and ground (stator plate best place to check ground at). Peak voltage kicking with the plug out registered 3v. Honda's I've tested that also register 3v @ the pulser, have a service manual spec of ".7v minimum".

Next the exciter coil (to charge the capacitor in the CDI). Check between the Red/white tracer wire and the blk/red tracer wire. Mine registered 25 ohms. 20-30 range should be fine. Again, both wires should be insulated from ground, no continuity to the stator plate. Peak voltage registered about 75, depends on how hard you kick and the speed of the meter.

If all this is good, plug it back in and check at the same wires at the CDI plug. values should be withinn 2 ohms of original. On mine, the red/wh exciter wire turned into a wht/red wire @ cdi plug. And the green pulser wire turned light-green.

Next, @ the CDI plug, check several other wires:
The White/black tracer wire should have ground at all times. use a coil bolt as your ground testpoint (make sure they both are tight!) If you DON'T have ground here, you will not have spark, even if all components are fine.

The Yellow /black wire should NOT have ground, and should show continuity to ground only when pushing the killswitch.have 1-2 ohms
Orange/white is the coil lead and should have direct continuity, less than 3 ohms, to the coil end of the wire.

For the coil itself, I had 11k ohms from the orange/wht post, to the plug cap where the plug snaps in. 10-12 should be fine. Remove the plug cap by unscrewing it. It is a 5k ohm cap. Mine tested 4.86k, they always test a bit low IME. From the Orange/wht post to the center mount post should be .5 ohm. On this low-ohm reading, subtract the meter impedance from the value you see on the screen. To determine the meter impedence, just touch the pos and neg meter leads together and see what it registeres after stabilizing for several seconds.

Usually you can test peak voltage out of the CDI at the coil lead but I couldn't get typical readings from mine. Only way I could get a PV reading was with the orange/wht plugged into the coil (and coil mounted as normal with the ringgrounds on both poles, one the CDI the other ring part of the killswitch). Then, touched the positive to the Orange/wht post and neg lead to the ground pole, kicking showed 10 peak volts. If all the coil ohms check out but no PV readings at the Orange/wht & coil post, then the CDI is at fault.

They are completely different ignitions Marc. The '12 WR Ducati ignition is a different animal to the CR kokusan ignition. I currently have mine with the cases split and installing a WR 6speed so I can't help. Sorry.

does it have a ducati ignition like the WR250/300.did you have the lights fitted/turned on?

Our 09 WR125 frame cracked at the ground, under the tank IIRC. Lost ignition too. Look there first.

It has the Ducati ignition. I know because I have a 21012 WR125 and the CDI pooped out last year. I think a clue was that it never did start worth a darn. Even when warm it was at least two or three kicks. I replaced it with the CR ignition and now it starts first kick when warm.