250-500cc No spark WR300

Well after having a reliable one kick bike, I have no spark. I looked at the online service manual, but couldn't find any info on how to test the CDI or stator. The resistor that gets installed when you install the headlight was burnt looking. Also the spade connector going to it, looked like it got hot. The clear rubber around the connector was burnt. Anyone have the testing procedure? I really don't have the money to throw parts at it, since I just spent a bajillion dollars on vet bills.

i am looking into the problems with the ducati ignition fitted to the 2011 onwards italian built wr 250/300.i hope to find a cure for the erratic/weak/no spark that has caused several seizures to my 300 that were nothing to do with jetting,air leaks,fueling

I wish I could find the troubleshooting procedure to figure out what is actually not working. I may be tempted to try another ignition system from another brand of bike, like what was being discussed in this thread. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/tell-me-about-the-cr-ignition-on-your-wr250-300.39148/

Do you get headlight/taillight/dash power when you kick it?

Stator troubleshooting is fairly universal. This is overkill for your scenario, but it's a good guide nonetheless: http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

NGK has some good ranges on expected ignition coil resistance here: http://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-coils/maintenance/diagnosis/

Factory manual has some tips, but they are only useful if the engine is running. At 3000 rpm, you should have about 35 volts between the brown wire and ground on the stator output. They say with the regulator disconnected from the wiring, but I'm not sure how you're supposed to test this, since the bike won't run that way, I don't think? Might work on bikes with batteries, but not so much on one of these.

This might be crazy, but I wonder if you could just take a 12V battery from another bike, tractor, car, etc, and jump it into the circuit where the R/R usually sits. That will power the ignition system, and help isolate either the RR/stator or the ignition itself.

Other testing ideas: Measure the stator output (unplugged) between brown and ground while kicking the bike. This might not turn the engine over fast enough; if not, try measuring it will having someone pull you in gear. You can also try checking the output of the R/R (yellow and white wires are both +12v out, I believe) while kicking, should be 12V, might be a bit less at reduced kicking speed. For all of these tests, pull the spark plug out, should make it way easier to kick the bike over fast, or easier if you tow it.

So, summary:
-Measure coil primary and secondary resistance
-Measure stator output (unplugged, brown to ground) at 3000 rpm (ish)
-Measure both R/R outputs while kicking/towing

That's a start...

Thanks guys. I don't have the dash hooked up. When I kick it by hand and measure the wires coming out of the stator, I'm only seeing 3-5 volts. I thought about putting an impact on the flywheel bolt with the spark plug out to spin the engine to test the output. Depending on what the outcome is, I may be interested in an older analog unit, Bill.

I doubt that an impact gun will spin the engine over any faster than you can kick it, especially with the plug out. You best bet is to pull/tow it, or if you have a hill nearby, roll down that in gear. Turning it over by hand is almost definitely sufficient.

No dash, but what about lights? Do you have those, and are they pulled in? Do they light up? If you put a meter on the +12V output from the RR, what does it read? If you unplug the yellow connection that "looks burnt," does the situation change?

There are basically only three things it could be; stator, RR, and CDI/coil. So, you gotta measure each of these three as per my other post and try to narrow it down.

r

read my many posts.they will not directly answer your q's but will give you an idea of the probs with the ducati elects

Just bite the bullet and buy a new loom with all the bits. Might cost you $500 or $600 all up.

Dont rely on trying to fix all that burned out crap. Throw it all away and start again. Replace the kill switch and put a generic version on too.

Keep us posted whichever way you go.

Stu

a

a new rectifier is $105 in australia

I haven't had a chance to get to this yet. Still recovering from shoulder surgery. I've decided to stop riding for good and sell the bike once I figure out the spark issue. Too many injuries in the last year.

There is only one little part that is burnt and it disconnects from the harness. I'm not spending $500-600 on a bike that I am going to have to practically give away when I sell it.

I have never raced bikes just a few poker runs and the occasional enduro. I strictly trail ride (with the occasional dune trip thrown in) and if I'm slow to the next intersection ahead I don't care. I don't know if you race hare scrambles or other events but maybe just do recreational trail rides instead? In seven years of this I've only broke two toes (Alpinestars suck!).

elaborate please I am shopping for new boots.

every time I decide to stop riding for good, I end up with brand new bike next year...Hope you figure it out.

some reading here

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1037874-dirt-bike-boots-for-dual-sport/

I have had 3 "bad" crashes in the last several years; broken ribs (enduro), bruised kidneys (trailride), smashed elbow and facial stitches (trailride). I don't think racing is any more dangerous (at least for me) than just trailriding. It's all about knowing your limits, and that applies in a race too.