All 2st O-ring chain ?

I rides the trails mostly but I am just tossing up between a lighter and cheaper quality mx chain and an O- ring chain - about $40 difference and probably be selling bike in 6 months
Not sure how much advantage the o - ring is and if it saps a bit of the power
Any thoughts?

Thanks kelly
I think I am going to try an RK gold chain - GB520EXW-120 at $129 for the enduro version
The last chain was from Motorsportz and has lasted well but time for a sprocket change - going to try 14 - 50 from 13 - 50

I just tried 13-48 on my 310. I didn't like it as much so will be going back to 50. Might sell the 48T black talon if your keen to try 13-48. Only one ride on it.

Non o-ring chain lasts several times less not just half as long. You also get to adjust the chain every ride and sometimes during the ride. It will also wear out your sprockets earlier as well because of the stretching. O-ring chains loose drag as they warm up and non o-ring chains increase drag as they heat up and can build more drag than the o-ring chain. The non o-ring chain is lighter however. I have given new regina non o-ring chain away that came on the bikes because they really weren't running. I can only see 2 uses for a non o-ring chain. 1) you are selling the bike and want to put on a new chain. 2) Riding moto where you get to pit and work on your bike between motos, chain adjusting is part of the ritual between motos.

Things are different when you are on a husky :>)

someone had the gold coloured DID o/x/w-ring chins for $90 not long ago. maybe MCAS? not a bad deal, maybe $10 for posatge

Shawbagga I'm running the RK 520MXU chain its a lighter weight narrow xring chain. Plus its all gold colour.

I have to agree on the o-ring chain. It seems in the woods with the sand, mud, whatever they last so much longer. I have had a couple that came on bikes and it seems like every ride they need adjusted. I bought an o-ring when I bought the TC and didn't even bother running the stock one.

I had to run a non-o-ring on my supermoto until my 4.25" rear wheel came in. With the 5" ride rim there wasn't enough clearance between the tire and an o-ring chain. Those chains lasted about 300 miles with an adjustment every ride. Given it was a highly tuned 450, with a non-cushioned hub, on the street with a very grippy intermediate rain race tire.

The tensile strength really isn't bad on the non-o-ring chains, they just don't keep the lubrication long and that causes the heat buildup.

For dirt, I like the X-ring chains. They last the longest.

You can't pre- stretch a chain. They don't stretch. They wear and the tolerance stack up makes them longer.

Good point here, X-ring chain actually last a little longer than o-ring chains (they also cost more), but the bigger thing is they have lower drag than the o-ring chain with better seals to keep the grease in.

+1 for RK's X ring. Would go through 2 sets of chain/sprockets during a whole year of racing.
Adjust after initial ride then good to go...

o-rings will last a while with little or no maintenance.

IMO non o-ring chains can be made to last if you clean and lube them after every ride but still won't last as long as a quality sealed chain.

I run RK 520EXWs which I can usually find on ebay for under $70 for a 114 link. But if I know I'm going to be riding in a lot of mud i'll swap on a cheapie non o-ring.

I think you had it right, I would the people making them might have a better idea.

I have very good luck with these ~$70 RK chains also ... ESP using used engine oil from my bikes, applied to the chain with a tooth brush ...

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Never had a non-oRing chain last long either but I've never purchased any that costs over ~$50 .... So maybe the quality just is not there at that price?

Hi guys,I reckon the DID X ring is hard to go pastI have had a great run with them in the past & have one ready to go on my WR300 next time around,however the bloody OEM Regina is still going strong,65hrs on it and I've hardly touched it.Don't think I'd look at the RK chain Have one on my boy's TE 250 and seem to have to adjust it regularly(it's O ring or X ring).Wouldn't bother with non o ring for enduro/trailriding it'll be rooted in no time particularly if wet and muddy

They absolutely stretch as well as wear.

Common misconception that an oring chain's lube is sealed inside. True, the lube for the solid pin that the chain pivots on is sealed by the o-ring. But the roller that contacts the sprockets rides on a bushing and is open to the elements. Oring chains still need to be lubed to lubricate that roller/bushing.

I'm a moto guy (who would have guessed?!) so I always run a standard chain of high-quality. I run DID ert2 chains or the RK gold (can't remember call letters) and get 30 hours or so out of a chain and aluminum sprocket. And no, I don't have to adjust every ride (smallbore 2t helps this) Spend your money on a good chain and get cheap sprockets to offset the cost if you must. The worn/stretched chain wrecks the sprocket, not the other way around. But a hooked sprocket will wreck a chain in a few hours, so replace as a set. I used to get 2 chains and a new sprocket set, and switch them every ride day and really get some life out of my sprockets, but I quit that as life got busier....