The allen key is turning in the head of the drain screw. Ouch. I'll remove the block in which it sits. Can the brains trust tell me which side hose is going to spew? I'm thinking the right side. TIA.
Does the trick. It's just some fittings and a piece of heat-resistant/ oil-resistant hose from Pirtek with a stop-cap on the other end, cable-tied to the crash bars. No mess and a 10mm socket to remove the cap.
I was able to hold the block outwards with some tie wire, wedge a rag over the engine, wire one of those large 3 piece funnels into place and remove the right side hose. Caught the lot. Most of the flow comes from the left side.
that's how i do it too. Now after some oil changes even without making a mess... Don't forget to pull the oil sieve out of the frame (at the left end of that oil hose) to clean it every now and then (10k km i think) .
Thanks for the heads-up. Well I spoke too soon. The rag was wicking oil and dropping it into the bash plate. A surprising amount. I'll give the Husky the gong for the messiest oil change. The filter housing spews a goodly amount out and the crankcase bolt helps to coat the bashplate. A three rag job!
If the bashplate is a B+B, it only takes 4 Allen bolts to remove (it pays to get some 8.8s though, the stuff that comes with the B+B plate is cheese). I tend to drain the top first, then the sump-plug and the filter last to minimize the amount of oil in the filter housing.
https://www.amazon.com/FORM-A-FUNNEL-Flexible-Draining-Tool/dp/B00XAXAAYU works for the drain plug and filter
$7.99 with prime free ship and it does the filter too, use it over and over again, no mess, just saying