Oil Filter Cover leak and stripped bolts

Bummer...changed the oil filter on the 11 TXC 250 and got impatient. Had a little leak and overtightened the bolts a touch trying to fix it. Not completely stripped, but some of the threads definitely broke and now I can't really tighten it enough.
Any suggestions for a fix, and is there a gasket available instead of that o-ring?

Thanks

Ouch! From best to worst- Drill and helicoil, drill and tap to the next size up, JB weld and tap it, JB weld a stud into the hole and use a capnut on the outside... I haven't seen a gasket for the oil filter.

did the same thing on my DR350s I tapped and used a heli-coil. Worked fine.

Change the cover o-ring as well and do not overtighten

I'd go with the helicoil or you'll just be dealing with it again later.

There is a gasket out there:

http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-oil-filter-gasket-upgrade/

I totally agree (best choice). I like the gasket. I suppose shipping to Indo wouldn't be more than sending a letter as well...

What size heli coil time sert to you use? I stripped 1 screw on my oil filter cover on my 2011 TXC as well.

The suggestion to use a stud and JB weld is the first thing you should try in this case. I imagine that the helicoil size would be something like 5mm/7mm (and 0.8mm thread pitch??)- but seriously: i can't remember shit anymore. take a bolt with you. Actually, Timeserts are better IMNSHO.

but try the stud first, if you have any female threads left at all. use a nice chrome acorn nut. or 3 nuts even- if you're going for looks too.

The stock cover comes with an o-ring. But there is also a paper gasket available (I think ZipTy had these)- but shouldn't be needed, really, if the surfaces are good. [nvm- I just read this thread and someone said the same thing... in 2012. shit]

I use an 8mm nut driver to tighten the cover. This helps keep me from over-torquing fasteners. And btw, the factory spec is 4.5lb/ft, which should be plenty.

Could you possibly tell me exactly which tap size to use? I have 3 tap sets and never used them because I can't ever seem to find the right pitch. Also I live in a small town so I have to order everything. What size stud length, pitch and whatever else I need? I'm good at following YouTube videos or write ups just not good at problem solving myself.

well, once you get the Heli-coil, you'll know what tap to get (but get a Timesert instead). BTW, lotsa kits come with the drill and tap that you will need.

so no, I cannot tell you.

but instead, get a (guessing) M5x20mm stud (0.8mm pitch I believe) and thread it into your case for a test fit (it threads?); then ensure that about 4-6mm stick out of the cover once its installed. Yes? remove the stud, hit the stud and female threads with brake cleaner, lightly goop both up with JB weld and re-thread the stud in. Clean up any excess. wait 24hrs. buy a 5mm acorn nut. torque it to 4.5lb-ft. Holds okay? You are done for the life of the bike.

cheaper, faster, strong and does not limit your choices..... except if:
it did not thread or hold? then get a (bottoming) tap and go to town with the drill and timesert. but once you go this route, you cannot go back- and the only next move would be MIG welding.

$3, $30, $100 is what each step would cost.

good luck.

ps- small town: I take it you're a Hoosier? i feel your pain... maybe more. my county is bigger than Connecticut but only has about 45K people total, w-a-a-a-y spread out. we do have about 10-15 fires going on though.

Tell you what though, if you're not feeling confident- I bet at either end of the nearest town to you there might be a radiator shop or welding/tractor repair. there'll be some old phart in there with bib overalls and maybe a welders cap on- go up to him and ask for advice. he'll fix it for $7 or some Indiana bourbon most likely. Be respectful too, 'cause even though he'll sound like he's from the dumber side of Kentucky, in reality he will be a retired rocket scientist from NASA-Huntsville ...or something similar.

Man thank you very much. Ordering stud to try now. Yes I'm from southern Indiana. I live 7 miles from the nearest town.

Torques are 6nm for the oil filter cover and 8nm for the rest of the side case.

That's good news- you want it about as long as the entire bolt it is replacing.

you might wanna verify the thread diameter and pitch too. I am assuming at least one of your tap & die sets has a thread gauge.

keep us posted.

ps- how'd that twin air filter work out?

I would drill and tap to m7 thread . However it's hard enough to get m7 gear in a metric country so you may struggle

redneck-
I should've told you to use a stock bolt (without the cover) to thread into the hole to see if there were any threads left.

anyhoo- got any news? hope things turned out well.

PS I have hears the term "Hoosier" previously. Is it just someone from Indiana or does it have a different meaning.

yep.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoosier