My bike's been running like crap. (08 610Te) It started with a intermittent stutter off-idle I decided it was too much oil in the air filter, and after a couple days it happened less and less. So I kinda figured it fixed itself. Then the bike sat for like 2 weeks. Went for a street ride and it ran great, but then in the afternoon it started stuttering like all the time. So I decided I better fix it. I wrung out the filter, but it wasn't really that full of oil. I looked at the intake and all the rubber seems tight and good. I changed the oil and did some work on the wiring a tthe headstock and when I started it again it stuttered/lurched REALLY bad. Took the bike back apart with a friend, and went over all of the wiring. Found nothing wrong. took the bike to taskey's he ran ibeat on it and said everything is fine, he said he would have seen an intake problem on the screen and by ear and he thinks it's mechanical, like a exhaust valve not seating. So today I did the valves (they were all bit loose, like .006 or so) I checked compression and I have good compression with no bleed -off. So that leaves me with the throttle body, right? I've blasted the bypass with carb cleaner, but how the heck do I check/test anything beyond that?
I know you specifically asked about efi, but considering it was hooked up to Ibeat by a reputable dealer I'd consider other things as well. Sometimes its the simpler things, even though it is an efi bike. did you check your ignition? I would check the coil connections and clean that up and reassemble- check the cap and wire resistance and inspect the spark plug. Least its something free to check off the list... my bike did about the same and I found the coil ground bolts were on the loose side- check the crimps as well. I have also had a spark plug cap begin to ground to the cylinder- cleaned the cap with contact electrical cleaner well and it went away- then replaced the cap as soon as I could.
Yes, I have checked, and Jeff said that he could see all that stuff working properly. He tried a different plug. Thank you for the input though, I will go over all that again tomorrow.
Yes. All the rubber looks good. The barb for CA emissions has been replaced with a screw, and it's tight in there.
It started at the beginning of a long trip, so now I'm gonna say 600 miles. It was fine at WOT, but now it's dying/lurching off the line. I ordered a new temp sensor, as that's cheap enough to at least try it. But I have no idea how to test fuel pressure or the injector...
How about fuel? Try draining all the fuel out of the tank and let it air out over night. This new fuel turns to junk fast. Just a thought. A little gas line anti-freeze? Isopropyl kind of course.
Don't think it's water, on that long trip, since it started I ran the tank completely out like 5 times.
I bought one just in case. Forgot about the holiday. The bike is not doing the typical symptoms, the fan seems to work fine. But I have heard that the bike runs poorly with a bad one. I have a hard time thinking it runs that poorly. Can anyone who's had a bad one tell me what's up with that? Meanwhile, I've pulled the Throttle body and it went to 'doctor injector' $38 and they'll test it and clean it and I'll know if it works anyway.
Alright, I took the injector to 'doctor injector' and when he tested it, it stuck open on him twice & peed out all the gas. SO he cleaned it, and afterwards could not get it to duplicate the problem. When I re-installed it I got confused about which hose went where, so I tried it a couple different ways, but think I got it sorted. When I turned the key, the pump came on as normal, but then stopped much faster than it normally does. After a couple attempts, the pump stopped coming on at all, and the neutral started flashing. On ADV someone said this indicates the computer is throwing an error code. I've tried disconnecting the batt and ECU but no luck there. THose of you familiar with iBeat, is it possible to read the codes of just the computer by itself or do I need to have the whole bike there? I really don't have time to load the bike up and deal with that. If they could just plug in the ECU it would be better. Any other ideas on what could be up w/ my EFI?
What kind of shape is your battery in? When my battery voltage is low, my bike sputters and runs poorly until the battery voltage builds back up.
Finally when my friend SepticSkeptic showed up aat my house with his 610 we started swapping pieces. Initially we still couldn't find a fault, so I broke down and paid the dealer $50 to look at iBeat and they found a loose coil wire. So we put the bike back together and went for my first ride in like three weeks. It was crazy hooligan sh*t. We rode about 100 miles, no problem, started it like 5-6 times. When I got home I tried to start it and... nothing, nada zippo. But this time no ibeat fault. We were able to quickly determine that the pump was seized. Tapping it freed it up, and so I thought we could use it for a while. We packed up and headed out for a multi-day trip... made it like 3 miles and the bike just ran like sh*t again. Swapping out the tank with septics confirmed that it was all my troubles. I've wanted a IMS in a bad way, so I decided to try and make a generic (cheap) external pump work. SO far so good, next step is to pretty it up and get me an IMS tank http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14370677#post14370677
