Options For Checking Chain Tension On Your Husky

Do any of you have a different method for checking chain tension on your Husky? Possibly more detailed than the "three fingers between the swing arm and chain" method but less cumbersome than the method mentioned in the owners manual.

a socket that is 35 mm OD in diameter at the slider work perfectly for me.

I just compress the suspension until the axle it at it's furthest point from the swingarm (chain the tightest) and make sure it has a little play. This method works no matter what kind of bike you ride.

I kinda did/do both of what you guys are suggesting.

I disconnected the Shock (when I was re-greasing when new) and verified the 35mm that the owners manual suggested was correct: by rotating the swingarm level and throughout. Then I was confident in the 35 mm. Then I use a socket with and OD of 35mm at the recommended point from the swingarm pivot that I marked with a paint dot: now well placed a sticker edge.

alot of words to describe but its pretty easy and quick- fingers work in the field- but I can eye 35mm or correct slack on my bike at this point. checked enough.

Where are you guys seeing this in the owners manual? Mine recommends .47in which is more like 12mm. Am I missing something here?

in the owner manual and on the sticker right on the swingarm

What follows is what is in my owners manual (page 35) and unfortunately I never had a sticker on my swing arm. Are you guys telling me I have different information than you?

CHAIN ADJUSTMENT
Chain should be checked, adjusted and lubricated as
per the Maintenance Chart to ensure safety and prevent
excessive wear. If the chain becomes badly worn or is
poorly adjusted (i.e., if it is too loose or too taut), it could
escape from sprocket or break.
Make sure that the chain features a slack (A) measuring
approximately 0.47 in., as shown in the nameplate (1)
on swingarm.
If it is not, proceed as follows:
- on the right side, with a 1.06 in. Allen wrench, loosen
the locking nut (1) of the wheel axle;
- loosen the check nuts (3) on both chain tensioners
and work on the screws (4) with a 0.39 in. wrench to
achieve the right tension;
- when the adjustment is completed, tighten the check
nuts (3) and the wheel axle nut (2).
After adjustment, always make sure that chain has a
slack of 0.47 in.

im going out on a limb here and thinking your 12mm is to be measured with a level swingarm(chain at its tightest point), and they are measuring on a stand or triangle.

+1 12mm would be about right for a chain at it's tightest point.

+2, i'm doing the easy way

Fast adjustment (Fig. B).
In the point shown in the figure, fit a bush (a), 35 mm diame-
ter (or alternatively a shim in the same size) and make sure
the lower branch (C) of the chain is slightly taut.
If it is not, proceed as follows:
- on the right side, with a 27 mm Allen screwdriver, loosen the
locking nut (1) of the wheel pin;
- with a 12 mm screwdriver, loosen the check nuts (2) on both
chain stretchers and work on the screws (3) to achieve the
right tension;
- when the adjustment is over, tighten the check nuts (2) and
the wheel pin nut (1).
When the adjustment is over check the wheel for alignment.

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say I believe we have different manuals for different models. My info. is coming from a TE630 owners manual.

My method is; Put your chest on the seat and reach down and grab the swingarm with one hand and the chain with the other. Squeeze the suspension by pulling the swingarm towards your chest while wiggling the chain up and down with the other hand. When it wiggles up and down the least it should be about 12mm or 1/2inch. If it's not adjust it.

For sure we have different bike, i own a TC510, but if you think about it, adjust your chain as per your manual once done and satisfied put your bike on a stand and measure the loose of the chain with a reference point on your swing arm and you can do the exact same thing as me because that slack will always be the same for your adjustment, if you have 1/2 inch when doing your method and you measure 1 inch and 1/2 doing it the quick way then you can look for that 1 1/2 inch after.

And you get a nice trail workout for your back with your method... we used to call that a "bent over row"

3 sets of 10? reset preload and do 2 sets of 6 till failure... Feel the BURN!
Warning: do not do this with a hot pipe!

Sorry- just had to since I thought of it

LOL, nobody said it was supposed to be easy.

If I have two or three people come by and say "hey your chain is loose" I know its about right.

Loose chain is a happy chain. Just my 2 cents.

Is my chain too loose?



The rear end is not touching the ground in this photo, so the suspension is completely unloaded.

I need to come up with a better way to check chain tension. Compressing the suspension until the swingarm is level is a PITA. I tried using some ratcheting straps but the amount of tension I had to put on my subframe was making me nervous that I was going to break something.

check the wear on the upper and lower rollers... that can be one indication of chain maladjustment (too tight)

That chain appears a bit looser than mine.

you need a new tire...

Rollers are in good shape. I replaced the drivetrain last fall and decided the rollers were fine. So, I have new rollers on hand for later.

My friend says the chain tensions up nicely when I sit on the bike. There's just a little slack in it.

I definitely need a new tire. I'm planning on putting some new ones on this weekend and trying out some Dyna Beads. New tires are on hand.

It also needs a wash, but I'm not a big fan of getting all wet outside when it's only 40 degrees. I'll just have a dirty bike until it's warm enough to wash.

I'd say it "looks" TOO loose- but would measure/ if that were my bike I'd say its time to check. TOO loose (chance of throwing chain and premature chain wear as well as guide) is better than too tight (counter shaft seals premature wear) but I'd want it "right" moreso than "too" anything... just my observation