So searched the site for the last two days. I'm not the best with electrical problems. I have a parasitic drain problem. Can't find anything as to what normal would be for our bikes. I'm getting a 60mA draw. Battery goes from 13.2v to 12.2v in a matter of 3 hours. The draw is on the numer 6 spoton the fuse block. It's the instrument cluster/anti-theft circuit. Any thoughts or where I can look for a problem. Grassy ass.
What (if any) accessories do you have installed on the bike? Are they direct from the battery or a new fuse block, or spliced into the system?
A lot of folks have tied into the anti-theft circuit for powered accessories. If you have done so, then that is likely your problem.
I would say it is the clock in the instrument cluster. It's always running no matter what or it wouldn't keep time. Am I off base here? I know my DRZ had about the same draw and that's what it turned out to be.
There is an easy way to find out. Just take a Posi-tap to do your testing. Tap into the suspect circuit with the ignition off and see if it is drawing current. I didn't buy posi-taps for this, but I have found it to be a great use for them.
No I haven't done any accessories yet. I took my multi-meter and pulled off the negative wire. Hooked in the multi-meter bridging from the negative wire to the negative post on the battery. I pulled fuses until the draw went away. 60mA is a lot in my mind. Most cars at most are below 45mA. The only thing I have done to the bike is run it through a fence and repaired everything. The only thing not replaced was the instrument cluster. Is it possible that something got torqued up in the that would cause a higher drain? I can't say for certain that it wasn't like that when I bought it August last year as I rode it 5 days a week after I got it. When I wrecked it pulled the battery and stuck it on a tender. First time hooking it back up. Can some one get a parasitic draw on their's that doesn't have any accessories? Would be greatly appreciated if I could get a normal mA draw.
The stock battery is rated at 10 Ah or 10,000 mAh & you're losing 60 mAh ...at that rate the charge should only last for 7 days. Well that doesn't seem good or normal. Your current draw should be pretty easy to trace down.
According to the wiring diagram in the sticky, fuse #6 is 7.5A (verify this on your bike) & may be labeled "Diag/DWA/Meter Assy/Accessories". If it's not too inconvenient you can try unplugging some stuff on this circuit & see if your amp draw goes away, looks like there's the DWA/CANbus connector, the dashboard & an already unplugged diagnostic connector.
60mA is a big drain for a motorcycle. It definitely sounds like you've got something pulling current that shouldn't. Start by taking the headlight housing out and unplugging the connectors like Run-It said. This should help you narrow it down.
That sounds much more like normal. There is at least one plug for an accessory in the headlight housing that is present regardless of whether or not you have the accessories. I think one is for GPS. There might be another for heated grips, but I'm not certain. Your meter assembly is powered off of two different circuits. I think that it is split between the first and sixth fuse. Forgive me, I'm working from memory here, don't have a wiring diagram handy, and am a sleep deprived father of a newborn. My brain power is a bit reduced right now. Anyhow, that might be a place to start. If everything on your instrument cluster seems to be functioning properly, you might ought to check out the accessory circuits to see if there is a short. I thought about using this circuit for my grips, and I seem to remember a red/yellow wire providing the power from the battery here. If you open your headlight housing, start by tracking down that wire. If it is exposed somewhere, and grounding itself, then it will complete the circuit and cause parasitic draw.
Thanks a million for the pointers. I pulled fuses thats how I got to the number 6 fuse as thats when the draw stopped. I will get to it this week and see what I can figure out. I don't remember any extra connections not used in the headlight assembly when I rebuilt the headlight but could be mistaken.
Well hell if I know what was wrong. It appears to have corrected itself. Been sitting for 24 hours and still at 13.1v. Damn gremlins.
A poor connection that was arcing slightly would increase current draw. Was the original problem flattening your battery with no juice for cranking -> starting?
