Parts mess

So with my 86 (almost complete) Husky400 i got 3 crankcases and two boxes of parts... here is the mess...

also
wr240 frame and sub
shock than needs rebuild
pair of forks
swingarm
front and rear hub
exhaust/no buffle
radiators &hoses

no carb no wiring harness

Not sure if a motor can be build from all those parts...











for this extra motor i will build and the frame i like to make a street tracker

What I see is some 87-88 stuff, the clutch stuff with six springs, steel basket, and the main or input shaft that the clutch attaches via nut. Aside from the cases themselves I have found the folloing more often than not not suitable for re use. Third gear on the input shaft, both missing material from the gear face and rounding of the dogs. First is built into the shaft so it is the second smallest gear on that shaft and the pockets those dogs go into is also often suspect. The small gear on the back of the clutch and for the later design starting gear set up which is what the year you state would have the inside portion of the gear the the starting pawl pushes against generally is kind of banged up. I am talking about where the needle bearings ride. The portion that holds the pawl generallly is somewhat deformed, I have yet to repair one of them but it might not be too bad but on the other hand it might not be too weldable either. I would examine those parts first. You will pretty much have to choose clutch through main shaft that all fit together otherwise it should mix and match pretty well. That choice will give you primary gear reduction and first gear ratio of whatever displacement those parts come from. Well assuming it is all six speed stuff otherwise discount some of the above.

The numbers on the gears and perhaps shafts correspond to part of the part number, I think the last three digits. I think am confident the piston with the half circle cut out is a 250/240 and the other piston looks bigger. For the parts sheets I have studied, six speed, the upper gears are the same but the first gear choice probably will dictate which of the lower gears you choose.

You might also note at some point for the 250 the stroke got longer so the crank will have to match the cylinder if you are assembling a 250.
Fran

tks for the info, first thing first i have to remove all that rust out of all those parts... any ideas for quick action?

also here is my plan for the 240 or whatever will end up being...





ill use a Ninja 250 radiator for the front, like to lower the forks and maybe get a shorter shock for the rear, ill run either 17 or 18 wheels on it with custom subframe, RH400 tank(i think).

I have been using Evapo-Rust to remove rust worse than what I see in the pictures

i see they sell it in Greece too so ill try it... i heard also about Rust911....

I think you will have problems fitting the wheel/fender without re locating that radiator. See where the wheel is when the suspension compresses and then add for the fender.

no front fender on it

If you need one in Greece, you could use a low fender just clear of the tire