Power Commander V + Autotune install

Yesterday, I installed the Power Commander V and an Autotune unit on my TR 650 Strada. I took some pictures, so hopefully, they'll be helpful to anyone else who decides to try this for themselves.

First thing I did was to remove all the plastic. That's been covered in other threads, so I won't waste your time describing it. (suffice to say, a 1/4" air ratchet is your friend!)

Next up, I unplugged the fuel injector connector. The fuel injector is in the gap between the "tank" and fuel pump. Ordinarily, this connector is situated at 5 o'clock, but that gets in the way. Pull the connector off, and you will find that it swivels. I moved it down to 6 o'clock, so i could thread the TPS connector and Crank Position Sensor wires downwards.

There is metal clip on the connector. Push it inwards, and the connector slips off. here's a pic:


my finger is depressing the clip at the top. once it's pressed in (I used a screwdriver) it slides off easily.

Now, thread the PowerCommander Harness down through the newly created opening on the right side of the fuel injector. The TPS Connector is kinda big, so it'll need some jiggling to get down.

Now, onto the TPS connector. This one gave me the most trouble. Using a small prybar and a screwdriver, I managed to get this off.

This is what you're looking for:




Push in the clip. I found the bend in this small prybar was the best way to get to it. a straight screwdriver didn't have the right angle





then, while the clip is pushed in, take a long thin screwdriver and gently push the connector down. Once it slides off, comes the fun part. The stock connector needs to mate with the male connector on the PCV harness, and the PCV female goes over the stock TPS. You'll be able to get it, just have patience. A long screwdriver will allow you to manipulate it into place. I used the prybar to depress the clip again, and it went on pretty easily.

Now, onto the Crank Position Sensor. Remove the regulator to gain access to the harness down there:



you see that neatly tied bundle of connectors? you're looking for this one:




Connect the powercommander wires to the crank position sensor (the instructions tell you which colors go to which, I don't have them in front of me so i don't want to steer you wrong)

Here's a pic of mine installed:



I zip-tied them all up and put the regulator back on

Now, you can go back up top and connect the fuel injection harness. The stock plug goes into the powercommander female, and the powercommander male goes into the fuel injector.

If you don't have the auto-tune, then all that's left is to hook up the negative lead on the PC, and unplug the O2 sensor.

Next, I took off the heat-shield from the front pipe, and removed the O2 sensor.

here you can see the 2 sensors side by side. the Autotune sensor is on the left.




The connector on the Autotune O2 sensor is kinda big, and wont' go between the frame too easily. believe it or not, the O2 sensor is smaller in width than the connector, so (keeping the protective cover on) I threaded it sensor first between the frame and airbox, near the fuel inejctor. then, i moved the connector north and zip tied it to the frame near the coolant catch tank.



Before zip-tying, plug in the autotune cable (the one with the bare wires) and push the catch home.

I mounted the PC and the autotune on the battery. Thread the autotune cable back towards the battery area, and connect all of the bare wires to their respective color terminators.

Each termination point has a small set-screw that holds the wire, perpendicular to the hole that the wire goes in. Loosen that screw and push the wire in. There is a rubber diaphragm that gets punctured once you put the wires in, then tighten the set screw. do this for all 6 wires.

Edit: Be very careful where you put the excess auto-tune wire. the left side of the throttle body is where the throttle cable is. don't stuff the cable down there or your throttle will get stuck. (don't ask me how I know!)

Next, you need a source of switched power. I used the tail-light. Dynojet supplies a posi-tap. It's the green/(white i think) wire.

ground the black wire. Make sure that you plug in the bus connector for the power commander into both the auto tune unit and the PC. also, make sure that the CANBUS terminator is in place on the autotune. the autotune should have no open ports.

Next, I hooked up the Power commander to my laptop:



and enabled the auto-tune in the powercommander software.

There are no AFR targets in the stock map. I was on a call with dynojet tech support, and the tech copied/pasted 13.2 into the AFR target table. we'll see how that works out. The tech also updated the firmware on my power commander (kinda surprised it was out of date, considering that this is such a new offering, but whatever)

Now, all that's left is to button up the bike, and take it for a ride. (as you may have noticed, the weather isn't cooperating in my neck of the woods. it's either raining, or i have to work.)

As an aside, I know you guys all discuss what racks to add onto your bikes, but i gotta say, I kinda dig the look without any racks.



But, I do appreciate the utility, so I put my rack back on.

Hope this helps anyone who wants to do this for themselves.

--Chris

Do tell...how's the H ride?

I'm sure it has been answered in one of the other PC-V threads but I can't seem to find it. Does the PC-V and Auto tune fix the MOSS issue? Also is it a "plug and play" or do you HAVE to tune it on your laptop? I have never done any dyno work and I am afraid of screwing something up and either getting stuck somewhere or put it all together and have the bike not run. I am a full blown dirt rider and have been racing my entire life but only on bikes with Carbs so the FI and street combo stuff worries me.

Thanks in advance!

@Trapper, I don't know yet! It poured yesterday, and I'm at work today. the suspense is killing me.

#SandersCC, I honestly don't know. The Powercommander only controls fuel delivery. I think the MOSS does a lot more (fuel, ignition, idle speed etc). Ideally, you should get the MOSS update regardless.

--Chris

@Motosports, I will keep my eye on that issue. I heard about it last night (after I did the install - natch) I was on the phone with Dynojet yesterday, and the tech didn't mention anything about it, nor were there any notes on their website. If I experience that behavior, I guess i'll just contact Dynojet - Hopefully they will have a fix soon.

I didn't get to ride it yesterday, but I took it out today after I got home from work. (typical, it started raining as soon as i got off the bus) I let the bike warm up for 3 minutes, then went for a brief ride. you can already tell the difference, the flat spot around 3k is gone, and it feels stronger in the low end.

--Chris

Thanks for the write up and taking the time to do the pictures!!!

Greta job and nice pictures for sure. Can't wait to hear more about your set up!

OMG! I LOVE THIS BIKE! The rain stopped, and I got to take it out for a quick 30 mile ride.

My impressions:

1) smoother idle. before the PCV, there was a lope to the idle, now, the idle is strong and steady. might be idling 50 or so rpm higher, that's what it sounds like anyway
2) GREATLY increased low end power. Bike pulls hard right off idle. i'm about 5'8", 175 lbs, and if i scoot back to the step in the seat, liberal application of the loud handle will lift the front wheel. (not open/shut/open, just opening it)
3) Fatter mid-range. prior to the PCV, the bike felt "soft" around 3k rpm. Now, it pulls hard all the way up to 6k (probably higher, but hey, it's only got 200 miles on it so i'm taking it easy)
4) When the engine is hot, I noticed that there is less engine braking effect. For instance, getting off the highway at a moderate pace, before if I shifted into 2nd and let out the clutch (not dumping it) the bike would slow as if i dropped anchor. Now, it's as if the engine takes longer to get down to idle, if that makes any sense. This may be the beginning of the issue that others have seen with the high idle, I guess time will tell.
5) Higher insurance premiums. (speculation) My cheeks are hurting from grinning like a cheshire cat. I'm sure that this bike can't be good for my license. also, i'm betting back tires don't last too long because every time you throw your leg over this thing you feel like you gotta give it the berries.

Did I tell you I LOVE THIS BIKE?

Thanks for listening

--Chris

+1 here! My EXACT same experience!!

Were closing in on the idle issue. I am sure it helps that one of the VP's of DynoJet OWNS a TR!

I took a look at the maps from the Powercommander today.

here's the fuel table from the stock husky map:


then I downloaded the map from the PCV and accepted the trims. here's the modified map:



This is with a target AFR of 13.2 at > 5% throttle.

I'm at 300 ft above sea level. (i've attached the map for anyone who's interested.)


I don't understand how there's a 1 in the 9k x 20% throttle cell. a) this motor hasn't seen 9k rpm, and even if it did, it wouldn't be at 20% throttle.

--Chris

Yup...that is the dreaded PCV TPS Conntectasaur! It is feared by index finger knuckle skin world wide.

What I did was use two skinny long screwdrivers (flathead to guide the connector from its rear up into position and the other to come at the connector from an angle horizontally from behind the other side of the frame and slide it onto the TPS. Then, to get the two to fully engage, I use the first (lower) screwdriver to snap the connectasaur on.

Clear as mud?

Check your map at 1500 & 1750 & 2000 rpm, 0% throttle. what are the values? if you look at my map above they're 10. I think 4 or 5 would be better. You can certainly use the map i uploaded, my bike ran fine with that.

--Chris

24C ?

Engine temp are that bars...ambient (outside) temp are the numbers

If you have a gaping hole in the header, then yes, that's an issue. Just leave the O2 sensor in place with the wire disconnected, or get a bung that will fill the hole. Better yet, install the autotune unit which comes with it's own O2 sensor!

"Hello and thank you for calling DynoJet Technical Support...how may I assist you"?

"Yes, I have a TR650 that I just install a PCV on and now it idles really rough and my left pant leg keeps catching on fire...is this normal"?

Just finished up the last of my PCV install. What a bear that was. Especially the FI, and TPS plugs. Trying to zip tie the TPS plugs up tidy took FOREVER, several zip ties, extra shop lights to see what I was doing, and laying on the garage floor on my back. But I got it. The O2 sensor was retry easy. Wrapped bothends up good with black vinyl electrical tape. Should be fine. A little unsure of the posi-taps, on how well that connection is.

A couple things that helped me during the install: don't adhere the PCT box to battery until last, that way leaves more slack into fish the plugs down to where they go, and gives more slack to connect the plugs together. Add a couple zip tie sticky pads to secure ground wire to surface of battery surface

...to add to that..

couldn't bring my self to removing the EVAP can just yet...hahah