TE/TC Powervalve springs & settings

Hi all just got myself a 2015 runout TE300.

Came standard with yellow spring in powervalve & about 2 turns in on adjuster, I struggled up a hill spinning rear on a ride recently & laid bike down a few times and it surprised me as I thought it would climb easier, so have just changed to the green Spring , much smoother power.

Just wondering what other people's set ups are ? Am going to try red Spring next with adjuster screwed in just to see the difference , so far I'm liking the smooth power of the green Spring especially in 1st gear hill climbs

I'm yellow 1 turn in from flush. Never tried green or red yet, will wait for summer to try red!
If your jetting is off, and the bottom end is blubbery and spluttery, it will make the response a snatchy on/off power deivery, and will make spinning up and looping out harder to control. What jetting are you running?

Red will be a grave digger. Yellow is medium, green mild and red is yeeehaaaw!

Red is not for the faint of heart hahaha kidding. it's definitely manageable but traction is a little harder to get. It likes to pickup the front wheel a lot too. That's why I'm running a 14 countershaft now with red spring still and it definitely hauls (and hooks up way better). I can't remember which needle I have in but it's the leaner of factory needles provided 2nd from top and the provided 170 main. Tons of power and hasn't fouled a plug yet. Runs clean all the way through but a little fat on top... I imagine a 168 will clear that right up. Air box mod helped a bunch because this jetting setup was rich all the way through (not way rich) but definitely on the richer side. Now it runs way cleaner cause of better air supply.

My first ride on my TE 300 will be Sunday so will see how the yellow works.
I road lower gearing on my 2005 KTM 300 with red spring (mostly) and was always in 2nd gear even on steeper climbs. Bike was jetted well so would climb well way down in second just off of idle and would be hard to spin. Did take some clutch work to avoid stalls however. I found 1st to get too frisky on me whereas second was mellow and more controllable and felt like a tractor.

Having said that I did play with the green some right before I sold the bike and believe it was easier to ride in the slower more technical stuff.

I have plenty of setup and experimentation to do, looking forward to it.
It is amazing to me just how tunable these engines are.

all the springs are the same until 5500rpm, green cuts back power allot from 6500 to 8000rpm when compared to yellow or red.
red give more power earlier than the rest.
yellow holds back power i little latter that red, but nothing compared to green.

install them all, leave the dolly screw in the same position, feels the difference for your self

I have read that gnarly brings the power band earlier. Is there truth to this? Not saying this is necessarily a good thing depending on the terrain, but is this valid?

I felt low end power, but had to be careful not to go to much on the throttle but had red spring flush on the old bike.

Operative word is "read". I had one on my last 300 but only comparison is my stock TE with a pitiful 2 hrs on it. It has yellow turned in some from the factory.

Would call out sick but too busy this time of year at work

never had a gnarly but most say it increase low end power not sure about bringing on the power band earlier is what i would describe but it makes sense a low end pipe would feel like that.

the older 2010 and back had a different dolly preload spring and flush was a very good setting, from 2011 up around 1.5 turn in from flush is best, its easy to tell, go around a few 3 gear corners lugging the bike up to speed do the same with dolly flush.

i had a freind on an older 2011 bike and red spring with dolly 1.5 turns was bogging bad it seemed the main preload spring was stuffed and lost it tension, so it always best to tune each bike buy feel.

cheers for replies guys, tried all springs without adjusting dolly.

for me i prefer the green, makes it easier to ride in shitty 1st & 2nd gear hill climbs & i prefer the smoother power delivery.

not sure of jetting, shop set it up for me as i got bike then did a 5300 klm road trip in my 4wd with bike on the back, i was riding in a climate averaging 15 degrees cooler than home so he set it up for cool climate, i think there's improvements to be made yet & especially back home in the warmth.

the red was fun on the open stuff though ! wheelspin & wheelies everywhere haha but a bit to savage for me, i got a 300 for a torquey 2T not a peaky 2T so green it is for me

5 hrs on '16 300 and put the red spring in to see what she does.
Great at the mx track, hard pack and loamy soil. Grip and twist that throttle and she launches, no hesitation.
Hit the single track this morning and really good on the open roads and when in the tight going I hit the map switch and lugged so low that the boys thought it had stalled.
It still has very tractor able bottom end and good punch at any revs to clear downed trees but it is a weapon when you are tired....
Lovin the new bike!!!

I put in green spring and i like the smooth power, if needing more power i just flick clutch, crack throttle or down a gear works in seconds for power needed. But, 3/4 throttle gave me a little sputter or hesitation, wonder if i need to do something with carb? I use JD jet according to their paper instructions though. I wonder

mine is virtually un-touched from what came on and in the bike. maybe 1 thread different on the adjuster, I was mad when one of my Kato expert buds unscrewed the thing to flush without counting where it was, or telling me he was going to do it.
I used memory of what it looked like @ 3 threads in

Yes manual might help you figure it out but really its not hard to just dial it in where it feels good to you. I think its 1.5 turns coming out from all in. I could count mine if you need to know?

The usual reference point is... how many turns in from flush with the case, not turns out from bottomed. Stock is usually 2 turns in from flush.

Yes i stand corrected. Out means delayed and in quicker hit i think

Other way round! In, ie more preload delays the start of opening, and out, ie less preload starts the opening earlier. if it's wound too far out, you can get an earlier hit, but then a slight dip in power, as the power valve is opening too early before the pipe comes into play. Everyone seems to come back to between 1 and 2 turns in, I'm running 1.5 on a yellow.

i just converted my 14 /250 into a 300 and did the power valve testing again on weekend
dolly flush lost power
1 turn in, still lazy
1.5 turn in wow now we are getting close
1.7 turn in and its great did it all by feel , then backed out to flush to see were i ended up. 1.5 to 1.7 suit my riding, max power and the earliest .
red spring is the best, yellow slows the mid range wheel spin, but holds back the power, so red with throttle control is a better option

Here's a good video on Jeff Slavens tuning another 300, but the theory is what I was after when I found this...


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p30NBTvr1lg


The adjuster has to do with how early the PV starts to open and the different color springs have to do with what max rpm the PV is completely open.

My 250 2-stroke is set to start opening early and close late, more lineal feel - no surprises, very predictable. And I have the ignition wire unplugged
for the softer curve.

And once this is set, then jetting can be determined/changed to better suit your needs...

I just raced a mud fest a week ago and the tractor mode on the hills was excellent!

AND remember; this is old-man mode, but it still rips!!

Ok, i see you answered both my repy and new thread. Im at stock on screw and just changed to green spring. I really like how tame it made bike, should i adjust screw to rid my hesitation at 3/4 throttle?

Sure your jetting isn't the issue?