Primary transmission drive gear disassembly

Can anyone verify what threads are on the end of this shaft that holds on this gear? The manual seems to imply it has left handed threads but the wording is a little off ...

Also, any tips for holding the shaft in place so the nut can be loosened? I don't quite understand the aluminum shim method mentioned below ....

I can't verify for the x-lites, but I can confirm that the Cagive twin cams are a left-hand thread.

My Husaberg is a left hand thread too, the aluminium shim they refer to is basically to jam the gears to prevent the crank rotating when you undo the nut, copper will do too, basically any soft metal so as to not damage the gears. I use an impact driver to get the nut off but a socket with a decent bar and lump hammer will crack it, you may need a few people to hold the motor still whilst attempting this. Once the nut is off you will more than likely need a gear puller, either two or three legged, to prize the gear off the shaft, if you don't have one you may be able to apply heat and carefully tease it off but the puller is by far the best way, you can do a lot of damage with drifts and pry bars!! (been there!)
Word of advice, apply thread lock to the nut on reassembly, I've seen these nuts come lose and do serious damage.

Thanks and any known method for holding the crank so the extremely tight nut can be loosen?

Ok and thanks ... I actually set the engine back in the frame to hold it in place ... Tomorrow, I get a cheater bar for the end of the racket... And I have a gear puller ...

Yeah, if you don't have a gear jammer then a piece of aluminium strip (or a soft copper coin) will do the trick. I don't remember needing a puller to get my primary gear off - i think it just slid off (it was a long time ago though!)

I've always used a penny (USA coin) in between the gears but I'm sure any soft metal that won't damage the gears will suffice.

Yep, any soft metal, or even a piece of wood or plastic will do as well.

Definetly LH threads! And its tight! An impact gun will be needed, i also used my propane torch to localize heat and spin it off.

Seems simple enough but on first attempt, that big gear behind the nut free wheels(gears locked on the starting mechanism, crank still turns) on the crank when turning the nut ... The crank can be locked from turning but in the opposite direction only...

As a re-cap ..

The nut needs to be turned clockwise to be removed, correct? What am I missing here on jamming this crank shaft?

I can rotate(spin) the big gear (the one behind the nut and against the engine case) counter-clockwise with my fingers while holding the shaft in a fixed location...

My current view ...

Put the clutch basket back on!

Seriously, the jammer goes between the teeth where the primary drive gear meshes with the big gear on the clutch basket. You don't need to reassemble the whole clutch - just slip the basket back on. And yeah, clockwise is good.

I forgot just how much they squeezed in there.

lol ... thanks ... you can tell i'm just an educated idiot reading and following the manual ... But after removing all these parts and staring at it a few days, it does not look quite so complex ....

This statement makes no sense to me either... What am I marking and for what reason?

Remove the driving gear and the free-wheel (mark the reassembly direction), the
free-wheel gear, the needle bearing, the washer and the spacer.

Got it split .. looks perfect to me in there ... mains? ..zer0 slack ... Some slack in the rod ...

I'll post some pics on another thread ...

Thanks!

After loosening the nut counterclockwise, how did you remove the firat gear? I need to change the starter clutch behind it...