The (S) buttom on dash stopped working. The button is way to easy to push now. But will not toggle between the trip and odo.and so. It looks the same but feels like the button in side fell off. Has anyone taking the dash apart? As is it is stuck on trip.
I've had the dash apart and wired in an external switch. Glitch is going to do a similar mod and hopefully takes photos. My s button wasn't broken but its been great having it so i didn't need to let go of the bars to scroll through the options. Greg
I have had mine apart twice. Pushing too hard on the button cocks it off to the side and does not touch switch. Easy fix. Don't push too hard on the button, and don't try with gloves on.
Hi mate...got a spanner session coming up this weekend anyway and want to give this a whirl, too. Still waiting on those http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321590978045 but I want to get all the wiring-related stuff out of the way, make a small bracket for the switch etc. Will take shots and post it up.
S-button broke up earlier autumn, half years ago. At the time I made a complaint Husky dealer. Dealer ordered a new dash, that comes with a warranty. This moment information, the estimated delivery time is May 17 I would like to keep the old dash myself, but I'm afraid that it will not fail. It would have been a good exercise model
Damn. I would have liked to come around and watch that, but Jo and I are flying up to Sydney for a long weekend.
Did you unscrew the 8 screws for the dash itself off the get to the switch. Or take the whole headlight/dash housing off bike to get the 8 screws....thanks for the input. As I dont wish to go deep if unnecessary. Again!
The 8 screws with heads facing down. Yep! Never easy the whole front Assembly needs to come apart I figure. Well I have my fairing part down to a science....after the 5 times it needed off.
With that much stuff hanging off the front...woww! Had the screen and mask off in 20 seconds, 5 more minutes to figure out how to remove the instrument cluster and plug....now stuck with the need for some bloody baby-sized Torx bit (size 4, 5 or 6? maybe), for which I've got to get the right bit tomorrow (will replace screws with Phillips-head or plain slotted...idiotic crap, that Torx, groan). Pics once I've got it all wrapped.
Thanks..... I gorilla superglue it back for temporary. Until I find a external switch I like. The best Christmas gift yet...IFIXIT macro bit set.
OK....some days you just get beaten. :-( Dismantling was quick...just watch this connector (cut the cabletie + disconnect), as that's the one that can result in the dreaded EWS-error and a dead bike after playtime's over. Pull the front 2 front clips holding the posts of the dash and check if you can pull the connector off the dash-socket (push the tongue down)....I couldn't, not enough space. Had to drop the cross-brace to get to the 3rd post-clip in the back. That's it With the 8 Torx6 screws removed and the top cover off....the right of the 2 pins is the target.....or rather, the connecting "legs" of the switch underneath the pin. In my case, the white plastic horizontal tab is still intact, preventing the removal of the pin. And that means there's absolutely NO ACCESS to those 2 tiny 'legs" to attach the 2 wires to for an external switch. Asking Greg/ DandyDisco which legs to attach the tap to, it's the 2 on the left (facing west...or...9 o' clock with the dash in the normal, natural position) Outsmarted myself and pried the PCB out of the back-casing to solder or glue the wires to the bottom of the legs (as they usually stick through the PCB with the factory solder-points below securing the component/ switch in this case, to the board.) All ready to roll and with some epoxy mixed up, I had another quick look at the 2 "tapping points" with a magnifying glass...and SHIT, those little "solderpoints" rather look like some sort of electronic components, some micro-resistor or capacitor or something !! And I was seconds away from sticking a mighty epoxy-turd on top of each! I'm beat! Thankfully it all still works fine after an anxious re-assembly....3 hours blown, I'll have a beer now and think of some other goof-up I could fabricate :-)) Maybe some other day....when my S-button has packed up.
Hi Glitch It's a surface mounted switch. Also that's at least a six layer board. Never assume components go through the board. I spent a bit of time circuit tracing and didn't fined an easy way to connect the wires. So I pried up the white plastic structure and got to the legs that way. Would have been nice watching you in person. Drinking beer while you worked quietly. Always willing to give you a hand. Maybe next time. Cheers Greg
Worst case scenario, does it look feasible to desolder the surface mount switch and solder leads to the solder pads on the PCB? Those button extenders don't look to durable. I'll remember to be gentle with mine. I really like the idea of using the high beam switch to toggle through the display options plus do a reset if that's feasible. Or using an old school push button kill switch to do the same.
First thing I tried. Problem is I couldn't remove the tacho needle to then remove the white plastic. I opened up the motor that runs the tacho and a bunch of very fine cogs fell out. So the easiest was to just glue wires behind each leg of the switch. And yes the high beam flasher button has been great with great tactile feel. Greg
My S-Button broke today, just after I collected the bike from the shop after it's 20,000km service. Thanks to this thread a had a go at repairing. It was very difficult to hold the piece in place to try to superglue it back in place, so I decided the next best thing would be to try to find something which would just stay in place by sheer volume. I ended up trying to jam a short piece of fibreglass tentpole between the rubber button and the switch itself, and this was successful enough just in a desk test when I put it all back together, but failed a test ride. I know DandyDisco did some sweet soldering to rig up an external switch. Has anyone else been successful in getting any low tech repair to hold? edit : I pulled it out again and used a 2 part plastic bond to reattach the original tab. It's such a small surface area to try to glue and as it's a moving part I don't know how well or long this stuff might hold, but I have used it for plastic repairs in the past which have survived very well.
Hi Nev. No soldering involved. Just superglued fine wires to the legs of the switch. I should dismantle my dash and take some photos.
