125-200cc Questions about Husky WRE 125

Hi guys, my name's Majski and I'm new here. I own a 2008 Husqvarna WRE 125 for a while and I'm looking for some advices about the power. I appologize in advance if this is deja vu thread, I just didn't manage to find the things that I'm looking for (either that or I just suck in searching).

Anyways, what I'm looking for is what can I do with my stock parts to get most out of them. This Husky is 15hp and I'm not looking for some massive power output, just slight increase, like 3-4 hp, if it's possible. I heard lot of guys were talking about opening stock exhaust and cleaning everything out of it. Can I do something with jetting? I live in Montenegro, where winters are mild and summers are hot.

Any info you got will come in handy since I've been riding enduro over here and I want to climb uphill slightly easier. Popping a wheelie over a obstacle is a big save sometime and you know what I mean but I can't do it with my bike. And NO, I don't want to change it for any other, more powerfull bike. This is my lucky bike, we've been through A LOT of things(broken bones, broken parts, broken hearts...) and I want to keep it forever.

Once again, I appologize if there is another topic about this and I'm happy to be a part of this community

Hi Majski welcome to the forum.

The question is how much money do you want to spend on it?

In the case you do all the mods possible on this engine you can gain a 18 to 23 HP additional but for a price that is as much as that the bike is worth or more (still worthwhile in my opinion ( guilty))

If it is only more low end torque needed to take obstacles, your cheapest way is playing with the sprocket gearing.

But finding more torque in the gearing is always a trade off on top speed.

Robert-Jan

Hi and thank you.

Well I know if I buy an exhaust (FMF, ARROW, Scalvini) and bigger carb I can gain a lot. But that wouldn't be only expense since I forgot to mention that my bike has 18000km and 760 working hours on original piston and internals. So, unless I take care of that, I wouldn't go with a bigger carb and performance exhaust.

I thought doing something like cleaning my stock exhaust from the inside if there is anything to take out from it, maybe rejjeting this 28mm DelOrto and playing with sprockets. So for now, untill I buy new piston, gaskets, bearings and all needed parts for rebuilding top and bottom end, I would like to squeeze some power from this what I already have.

P.S. Oh, and belive me, even after 18000km and 700+ working hours, it still runs as hell(for restricted bike).

I would say the biggest improvements will be a non restricted pipe and a bigger carb.

This^

No biggest improvement is 165 kit
Robert-Jan

You re alright- but for a start you ll always need These 2 things sorted to go on...

Let me ask you again... Can I derestrict my stock exhaust (cut it open, remove everything from it and weld it back) and do something with my jets on stock carb? I'm not going to buy performance parts YET. Not before I completly rebuild my engine, cause it is too old and I don't think it would survive bigger exhaust, carb and big bore kit.

Please, read the question. Thank you.

if the 165 kit is a future possibility then don't go for a pipe right now (when changing to more CC the pipe have to be changed any way to get the best performance out of the displacement increase).

a lectron carb would gain already a fair bit on the original motor and it would be a nice thing that this carb would not run off its performance with the weather extremes you face.

in your case you would need to change in mixing you self the oil and petrol when you don't have the mechanical oil mixer on you engine (2008 is tricky as that was the year they switch over this system (so you could still have one)).

you need to change the reed cage and intake boot (rubber connection between the engine and carb) to fit a bigger carb.

if the 165 kit is no option at all in the future go for a complete exhaust kit from a WR or a CR.

when keeping the same carb you have to increase the main jet and possibly the pilot jet (and with the weather extremes you face this jet changing would be a a few time's per year exercise.

Robert-Jan

Hi,

There's a honeycomb filter like material near the inlet of the stock header you can remove. There's another stopper near the other end of the pipe but you have to cut the header open to remove this and then weld it back together.

I also have an arrow header modified to fit with the stock '10 end can, but removing the honeycomb filter already gets you 90% of the way there with all other parts stock.

With stock jetting at sea level, the bike felt a little boggy when moving off (pilot jet too rich?). With the arrow header the response was better but still not fully dialed in.

you got 700 hours on the original piston? that's pretty mad! does it not have any piston slap when started up cold? My wre has 20/25 thousand miles but I only let the pistons go on for 200 hours then I change it for a new one. I would say, get an exhaust off a ''cr/ wr'' model, put it on, then jet it up inside the carb, you'll need to or you'll run too lean and kill the piston. You say it's restricted, does it have a working powervalve, at 7000 ish rpm does it have a sudden kick and then loads more power? you can also buy dep/ arrow etc full systems but they'll cost a lot more than a used cr/ wr pipe

Yeah, 700+ actualy and amazingly, it is still tunder. The power valve is disconected and valves are stuck open (have to fix that). The problem is that in my country there are no WRs, CRs or any other Huskys, only mine, so logicly there are no parts here to buy. So I would rather buy brand new DEP/Scalvini/Arrow from internet (or Italy, because it is nearest country) than going for a stock WR/CR.

Anyway, can I gain anything from rejjeting this carb and cleaning this WRE stock exhaust? That is what interests me the most. When I decide to invest, that's going to be BIG project (exhaust, carb, piston and cylinder kit, crankchaft, reeds, etc...) but for now I just want to use this engine untill it's last stroke.

Sorry for hijacking, but this is somewhat related. The bike hits a flat spot in the low 6k rpm region but once it gets past this point the power rushes on. Any of yous experience this? Happens on both stock and arrow header.

Look around for used deals, I got my arrow for $20~, had to get a hairline crack welded though...

mine does that every time yes, it's just before the pv opens, worse if i sit at traffic lights for a min then try to accelerate away, it;ll spit for a few seconds then clear out and be fine on the power, its like, accelarate go go, ok hang on I cant explode this bit, ok, ready, BANG GO GO GO!

its a power valve opening issue

when you have a later model with a mechanical actuated valve there is some play in the setting possible also different spring rates can be ordered to adapt the moment of actuation.

for the electronic controlled ones its a bit more difficult
can remember that some aftermarket Valve controls where available (somewhere in Poland if i am not wrong)

Robert-Jan

this guy is in poland, he has brand new wre parts http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/auto_moto_lech/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

Anyway, can I gain anything from rejjeting this carb and cleaning this WRE stock exhaust? That is what interests me the most. When I decide to invest, that's going to be BIG project (exhaust, carb, piston and cylinder kit, crankchaft, reeds, etc...) but for now I just want to use this engine untill it's last stroke.[/quote]



I've never looked inside the standard exhaust for wre, but if you take off the front part, just after the big curve where the pipe becomes a tube instead, you should see some sort of blockage, or metal piece, hard to say exact;y what but most manufacturers put something in the exhaust area to withhold all the power, if you can get a picture up of the inside of that we can see what you need to do to get more power

[quote="gazmcfaza, post: 558046, member: 7010"I've never looked inside the standard exhaust for wre, but if you take off the front part, just after the big curve where the pipe becomes a tube instead, you should see some sort of blockage, or metal piece, hard to say exact;y what but most manufacturers put something in the exhaust area to withhold all the power, if you can get a picture up of the inside of that we can see what you need to do to get more power[/quote]



That metal thing (funnel) on the beginning of the expansion chamber, right after the curve from cylinder, has been removed already but I never looked inside the expansion chamber if there is anything, what could possibly add a bit of torque or power by removing it. I'm aware that I can't gain anything special... I'm just looking for 5% more power and I'm good.

I've never looked inside the standard exhaust for wre, but if you take off the front part, just after the big curve where the pipe becomes a tube instead, you should see some sort of blockage, or metal piece, hard to say exact;y what but most manufacturers put something in the exhaust area to withhold all the power, if you can get a picture up of the inside of that we can see what you need to do to get more power[/quote]


thats exactly what i m saying- get an unrestricted pipe and a proper carb 36-38mm and get it jetted correctly- you will gain so much power...

cheapest thing to do is gut the stock exhaust and buy a bigger main jet ( on my son's SMS, I installed a 185 main jet and it works great )