I was taking off my tank to clean my bike along with some other maint issues ,oops i drop the damm tank before i get it disconected and break the plastic male 90 fitting ,i know i can tap and thread a new ftiing in to my fule pump but would rather get a oem style quick disconect..annyone know were to get such fitting 09te510 thanks
This is my practical upgrade/fix. Plastic connectors are vulnerable to breaking and I decided to act before having to deal with a break and fuel loss when out riding. Brass or even ali makes a stronger connection and is not vulnerable to heat degrading over time. I used brass - the extra weight is minimal and worth the peace of mind. I have earlier solved this plastic connector problem with my 1997 Moto Guzzi Daytona RS. The male plastic fuel connectors that are fastened into the Guzzi Weber EFI unit metal housing are also vulnerable to breaking and either not available or very expensive. Equipment required: Metal lathe / Solid Brass rod / Solder / Soldering iron / 2 x brass quick disconnect fuel connectors / Viton O'rings /tap and die set / 2x grub screws Here is the sequence I used with my 08 TE 610 ie: 1. Drain tank of fuel / remove tank / disconnecting fuel lines / disconnect electrical wiring at connector; 2. Remove metal plate at base of tank by undoing screws - save the large O-ring gasket for reuse Attached to the plate is the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel level sensor; 3. The male plastic connectors are a tight fit. There is an earlier post showing a removal technique involving vicegrips clamped onto the external base of the connector and levering it out using a large screwdriver. I successfully used a variation of this technique including clamping the metal housing into a vice for stability - I use carefully place wood to protect the metal housing in the vice. 4. Remove any residual plastic and 0'rings remaining in each of the 2 holes in the metal housing where you have removed the male plastic connectors from. I use a drill with care until I had 2 nice clean holes as original. 5. Take measurements from the removed plastic connectors and the holes in the metal housing then machine from solid brass rod the first part. Drill a hole the same internal diameter as the plastic connector to about 1/8" short of the end of the brass rod. 6. Machine on your lathe the outside of the brass rod so that it is a snug fit into the hole in the baseplate. Then machine an O'ring groove near the base of your rod to allow an O'ring to fit. I took the old O'rings to a bearing supply place for correct size matching. Fit your O'rings and test fit into the plate holes. You may need to do some more O'ring groove machining before you get a fit that is firm but not too tight. 7. Drill a hole at right angles in your brass rod to meet the end of the other hole. It is into the right angle hole that you fit the male end of the brass quick disconnect and solder it for a fuel tight seal. This will involve some basic machining to fit. The two holes for the connectors in the metal base plate each have a flange that sticks up about 1/8". Drill a horizontal hole at the base of the base plate flange into the connector hole then tap a thread (1 used a M4 tap) through. Later, after fitting your new brass connectors into the base plate holes you can use a grub screw to secure the connectors so they don't fall out and retain their correct angle. I used blue Loktite on the threads so they don't vibrate out. 8. Various fuel hoses attached to the baseplate and fuel lines are attached with clamps. I have seen a lot of confusion about these. Here are the facts and solutions. The clamps are one use only - use then disgard. They are called Oetiker clamps and sometimes called ear clamps. There are 2 main types - single ear and double ear. Both are good and suitable. Remove the clamps using a good pair of side or end cutter pliars. Oetiker clamps come in various sizes. Measure the outside diameter of the fuel line you need to clamp then fit the correct size of clamp. Each clamps has a range of hose sizes it will clamp - eg 11mm- 9mm. The clamps are tightened using CV joint clamp pliars or a pair of end nippers where the sharp cuting edge has been blunted. 9. You would be wise to remove and either blow out or replace your fuel filter while things are apart. A range of Auto filters are compatable and I have seen for as cheap as $3. 10. Fuel Pump. The pump individually can be replaced - You do not need to buy the whole Husky baseplate with pump, filter etc attached. There are posts on alternatives available. 9. O'ring tutorial. Gasolene needs special O'rings. Before Ethanol, Nitrile was suitable for gasolene. With the spreading cancer of Ethanol and its rubber eating propensity Viton is the best choice. As well as its ability to survive Ethanol, it also has a higher temperature capability than Nitrile. Viton may be a bit more expensive but so what. Hope this all helps.
