Race Map 3 on TE511

For those of you who have Race Map 3 on the TE511 what does it read on the dash? I just receive mine back from being sent off for remapping and it reads Race Map 2 just as before. Isn't it supposed to show 3?

No, the update is 'Map set 3', it still has two maps installed, Map I & Map II, One road map for o2 sensor & one for race use no o2 as before.

Sooooo, it will still show Map II on the dash with the jumper plug installed.

Ok I had the jumper plug installed and the O2 sensor removed already. I plugged in the remapped ecu and that's it. Does this mean I'm running Map 3? Or do I need to unplug the jumper?

Ok, so there was an original pair of maps in the first models - Map set 1. Then they came out with another pair of maps for the newer models - Map set 2.
Then they released a pair of maps for the Akrapovic racing exhaust called Map set 3.
ALL these sets have two maps loaded in them - Map I which doesn't show on the dash & Map II which does show when the jumper is installed.

If your ECU has been upgraded to Map set 3 & you have the jumper installed you are good to go.

It won't say Map3 anywhere..... it should run better though with less stalling.

Ok so it won't show 3 on dash. So what effects should I expect? I stalled a lot a low revs with clutch in before. I also boil fuel and some mild popping on decel. I understand Map 2 was lean. Should I expect less popping, less stalling, and less heat? What about power/torque? Any gains there with map 3?

My bike is an Aus deliver bike so we get different ECUs to you guys.
The maps are richer, so should be better than standard for most of the probs you just mentioned.

The primary TPS voltage has an impact on the running of these bikes also especially down the bottom .
It should be at 0.7v factory setting, lots of them are lower at like 0.6v....

Ok so that last thing you said about TPS voltage, I don't know anything about that. Is there something that needs to be done there?

See how it runs 1st just how it is.
You may find all is well

less stalling , but if it is still hard to start sometimes or still stalls easy, increase the low idle speed. Factory stting is 1850rpm -1950rpm. But for tight single track with lots of clutch use, you should increase the low idle. makes it so much better to ride. I turned my brass screw half a turn out for more idle..
Race MapII will remain in the dash.
You should have much more response and less of a heat problem.

Let us know how you went .

Thx for that. To turn out the screw is it counter clockwise? That's been a real annoying problem.

Yes, counter clockwise increases idle speed. Different bikes seem to take different settings. Too low of idle and I suspect its too rich and has trouble starting. Error on the higher side. Mine is about 2 3/4 out. Starts well both hot and cold.

ok, I'll try that, thx.

Mines turned out 5 1/4 turns from all the way in, matched my te449, also running fmf and put quiet core back in for back pressure. Also did tps reset all at same time, flameouts are a thing of the past now, no issues at all

How do you know if you need to do the TPS reset?

No idea. TPS resets did not change anything at all on my 2011.
Did it at home, out in the bush where-ever, read & re-read the how to, did not change flameouts or idling issues on my bike one bit.
Maybe it helps the newer models with the different wiring, not sure.

Idle screw can help for sure.
As you can see by the different settings for different peoples bikes posted above, there's no '1 magic number' of turns.
Just be aware that as you open it up more (anti-clockwise) you also add more inlet air making the mixture leaner.
Take note of how many turns it is at now(to come back to if needed) & experiment a little at a time, 1/4 turn each adjustment.

Good way of doing it for sure.

Not sure stalling I guess. I decided to do all at once after reading recommendations on the te 511 platform. Not sure what pipe you have but after installing the fmf it stalled worse than stock. 449 was 5 1/4 turns out but as said above different bikes seem to need more or less. Did tps reset cause I went from 2 turns out to the 5 1/4 so I figured I'd reset it all at once. It was also recommended with the fmf 511 it needs back pressure so core went back in. Before I did all this it would pop when I let off the throttle now no more anything just runs strong and no issues. I'm not running anything but smog junk off, fmf, and map 3. The 511 was way more a pain in the ass than the 449 but now both mine run nice. Good luck and happy riding

Just unplug the battery for 15 minutes.

I disconnected the positive battery terminal. Left it unplugged for 30 minutes and pulled in the clutch and held starter button on for 10 minutes to discharge capacitor. I believe Tinken recommended to put quiet core back in for the back pressure, worked great (thanks Tinken) also they do seem to run better after about 600 miles or so or after the break in. You'll know if you turn the tps out too much it won't want to unrev.