Random Stall – a Silver Bullett or as close as we may get. TR650 Husky

I used an inner tube as a gasket instead of the oring. So far it has been holding great.

Couldnt find any 6mm, just 5s, they pop in nicely, its not local but might be worth the wait, they work. Delivery was 10 days early
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121772706727?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used "self-amalgamating" works perfectly

What EngineerK9 posted works fine.

Holding what?
I installed Pulstars on two bikes so far and I just slid the original rubber down the plug connector until it fitted back where it was on the cylinder head support. Works perfectly well with no need for anything else, after all we are not talking 'support' of any weight, simply for vibration as far as I see it.

I worry about putting that sort of weight at the end of a porcelain spark plug and hoping the vibrations don't lead to a crack. Simply filling the gap between the coil and the rubber spacer so that there's no movement possible is all one needs to do.

I fail to understand how there are any such vibrations that may lead to a crack, the rubbers are still doing the same job.
If you are really concerned about 'that sort of weight' (which is quite minimal) then how about moving the original rubber supports down the coil shaft, just as I have done, then putting a drop of 'superglue' to stick them to the coil shaft. I have seen that 'superglue' can hold lots of 'weight'

You don't have many "friends", do you?

Having 'friends' has nothing to do with the fact that there is in reality no issue of any support of vertical weight involved with the rubbers that hold the plug coils in place.
Having 'pulled' the plug coils on several TR650s, I find them to be a very tight fit to the plugs as part of the 'waterproofing' and there is very little weight involved.
The original rubbers fit around the coils and slot into the holes in the Valve Cover and provide the relatively long coil units lateral support against excessive vibrations, they do not wholly support the weight of the coils.

Each of us is fully capable and at liberty to do as we wish for our individual bikes and people will always have different ideas that suit themselves and work for their bikes.
I merely questioned your statement regarding 'weight' when in actual fact the relatively light weight of the plug coils is supported by the plug itself and the rubber does not really do anything other than provide lateral support against excessive vibrations.

I stated that if you fit Pulstar (longer) plugs you can do as I have and simply slide the rubbers down the coils a short distance so that they fit back into the Valve Cover and provide the lateral support against vibrations in exactly the same way, or you can choose to do different.

O-Rings, Innertube, Rubber tape or nothing - each can do as he sees fit, but at the end of the day, there is no great 'weight' involved and so long as you address the vibration issues there is a minimal chance of 'cracking' or any other problem.

IMO letting the Coil have any movement will end in failure and it will happen in the worst possible place at the worst possible time all thanks to Murphy's Law.... The Coil is reasonably heavy and long, engine vibs and rough terrain cause fatigue and thats not what spark plugs are good at.

Hi all, Picked up a Terra at the weekend from Melbourne and had a great 1000km ride back home to Sydney, though the Dunlop D606 tyres probably weren't the best choice! Occasional stalling at junctions and nearly getting rear ended by trucks prompted me to do some searching and I came across this thread which has been a great source of info. I've tried to absorb as much as I can but would be great if someone could confirm my understanding of the best set of next steps to take to get the bike set up better...Based on what I have read so far, I should:

1. Fit 2 pulstar je2rt8 spark plugs which can be purchased from https://www.hicloneqld.com here in Australia
2. Fit a Bosch injector as per the very first message by Kiwiape in this thread
3. Update the firmware - is this different to the moss tool update and should a husky dealer be able to do this as part of the service (e.g I know R&D Sydney don't have a moss tool but can clear the wrench so does that mean they can also update the firmware)
4. Consider fitting an AX-FIED
5. Do the air box pod mod

Does that sound like the right approach. I absolutely loved the bike on the ride back from Melbourne but did get a little anxious every time I came to a junction and soon learned to cautiously open the throttle and then release the clutch so as not to stall. Thanks in advance.

I'm in Austin, Texas and my bike suffered from the stumbling issue, mostly during hot weather. It ran great when the weather was cool but as the temperatures rose my bike ran progressively worse. Above 95 degrees the bike was terrible to ride.

I did the air box pod mod first, which prevented dirt from getting into the engine. The pod mod doesn't do anything for the stumble/rough running.

I installed the Pulstar plugs and they made a noticeable improvement but did not solve the problem. It still ran progressively worse as the temps rose.

Then I installed the Dobeck Gen 3 EJT controller and the bike runs great now. It still has a slight stumble from time to time when starting, but aside from that it runs fine, even in hot weather. I haven't installed the Bosch injector or upgraded the firmware as neither seems to be necessary for my bike now.

As always, your mileage may vary.

The Dobek cannot resolve the problems in the earlier firmware, it papers over some of the cracks only, the hot weather issue indicates an adaption reset is needed

I'm sure you are right. In the meantime, I'm quite satisfied with the way my bike runs now. While not 100% perfect, I would say the mods have made my bike 99% right.

Can you get me a pic of the underside of your BMS-E Engine ECU ?, I am looking at the hardware revision numbers, I know there are 3, you will find a label on the underside of the ECU with Magneti Marelli and BMW part numbers

Just be careful to disconnect and remove the battery to make sure you don't short the ECU.

The case of the BMS-E is earthed, the only danger is if you put +12v to the case

like if you touch the case to the positive terminal of the battery while you are mucking around there . The positive terminal is very close to the ecu. Be very careful and disconnect the negative first.

I've had my Dobeck/EJK on my bike for a couple years now too and it has been great. It hasn't stalled out once and drives perfect 99% of the time. This is the second bike I've had one of the fuel controllers on and they are worth every penny.

Note that I could make the bike stall consistently prior to the controller.

I also installed the EJK and it took care of the stall problems. The bike runs great now and I really like it. Very happy owner.