Hi all, So after only 700km's I have nearly worn away by rear brake pads. It's been suggested that I am riding the rear brake and that I should adjust the lever so that sits lower than the foot peg. I had a quick go at lower the lever but not joy all I did was increase the pressure need to engage the brake. Anyone know how to go about this adjust or advice. Cheers Andrew
You have to loosen the jamb nuts on the master cylinder at the back of the pedal and move them up as far as they will go and snug them down. Then loosen the bolt in the negative stop cam (little eccentric round piece that keeps the pedal down). Then take up almost all of the free play in the pedal by rotating the cam forward and tightening it. Don't get too carried away or you may cause the same problem again. Another hint would be to use your front brake and engine more when slowing down. You can downshift smoothly with a little clutch and rev-match and let the engine do most of the work unless you're being aggressive.
This is a known problem from the 610 days, exacerbated by removing the rubber footpeg inserts (I'm assuming we all do that). I have mine adjusted as far down as it will go. It's okay for standing, but I have to lift my foot to reach the pedal when sitting. The fix is a cut and re-weld of the pedal lever. Bummer about the pads. Will keep a closer eye on them. I've never replaced brake pads on a motorcycle, bikes have been sold before they wear out. The shifter is too close too. I have mine as far up as is reasonable. I'm pretty much used to it now with some miles. The footpeg relocator is one solution. I wrote our member here that makes them and he wants $80 for it. Ouch! I think there were some tips and comments on both of these on Bill's build thread.
I put OEM 510 pegs on my bike. They aren't designed for the rubber inserts and consequently sit a bit higher than the OEM 630 pegs with the inserts removed. That effectively lowers the position of the foot controls. I still have my rear brake adjusted as far down as it will go and would like it lower still. 510 pegs on a 630 are a direct fit:
Doesn't George at Uptite have a brake pedal foot that sits lower down? I can't remember where I heard this ...
That's absolutely spot on CJ, makes a lot of sense. I have of course removed the rubber inserts and the new boots I have are very stiff. The mechanic at the Honda garage was surprised my bike hadn't been set up and the pads should lasted much much longer. But I can't see anyway of lower the lever, perhaps I should let them have a go.
The pegs off a TE 250 or TE 450 , TXC 450 work as well as IMS pegs. I had two sets for sale from bikes we were parting out before i found out they fit on the TE 630's. Almost sold them for $10.00 a set
They came in at around $100. Pretty spendy, but the direct fit was sure convenient. That was me that contacted him in an attempt to get the ball rolling on something like that. He told me that he would work on something, then stopped answering emails. After a couple of months, I gave up.
I adjusted the jam nuts as far as they would go, and then what I did was to take a dremel to the clasp (center of photo) where the pin connects the brake lever (the pin with the cotter pin). What this does is allows the brake lever to rotate farther before making contact with the clasp. This then allowed me to rotate the cam adjuster farther thus lowering the brake lever (without activating the brake). I probably took 1 mm out of it. If you don't want to do that, you could thin out the jam nut a bit.
