I'm on a 15 fe350 and the back brakes lock up way to easy for me. I gave it 300 miles to see if I just needed to get used to it, but it's the same still. Others on the new 250 say the same thing. Looking for suggestions on new pads that may help.
you could lenghten the leaver of change to a bigger master cylinder for less leverage . not sure i would pay money for crapper brake pads . how about just un bleed the brake a bit . eg get some air in the caliper so it has a lil bit more "mush" for you
Air is not good, won't always be the same. My pedal is set where I like it, i don't want crappy pads just some that don't grab as fast.
Not sure of how or where you ride, but I think this is also a skill that separates riders ... Watching the MX PRO riders alot, both in slow-MO and pics, I finally saw a rider using just the toe of his boot to press the lever down ...This works for me when I can remember on the fly to just use my toe ...Its almost like feathering the clutch; it takes practice and a skill you learn. Most of my riding is on trails (or at least that is all I'm concerned with currently), the rear brake is just locked to slide the rear tire or I drag it slightly over rough terrain to set the suspension and keep the rear end settled down. I'm Ok with air or whatever gets in mine ... Might be some pad work you might can do or some other trick someone out here knows about... For me, its a seat time issue.
I haven't tried them, but I read the carbon fiber pads are less grabby: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/sineterd-vrs-carbon-brake-pads.16575/
Try to adjust your pedal to get what you want. Ray ray makes good sense though. Them boots makes for practice. Ride it you will get it. Nice bike!
Thanks, my pedal is right where I want it. I'll try some of the others recommended by cosmo. Seems I'm not the only one.
Carbon is great for that as they need much more heat to get grabby. Only other thing would be the placement of the lever tip. The height may be right but the shape/size of the tip may be something to consider.