rear brake grabby

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by McKay, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. McKay Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sanger, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 FE350S, 2016 TE300
    I'm on a 15 fe350 and the back brakes lock up way to easy for me. I gave it 300 miles to see if I just needed to get used to it, but it's the same still. Others on the new 250 say the same thing. Looking for suggestions on new pads that may help.
  2. silverstreakNZ Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Christchurch nz
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    82cr500,76gp360,90wr250,81 420AXC
    Other Motorcycles:
    74 tm400 , 02 gasgas ec 300
    you could lenghten the leaver of change to a bigger master cylinder for less leverage . not sure i would pay money for crapper brake pads .
    how about just un bleed the brake a bit . eg get some air in the caliper so it has a lil bit more "mush" for you
  3. McKay Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sanger, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 FE350S, 2016 TE300
    Air is not good, won't always be the same. My pedal is set where I like it, i don't want crappy pads just some that don't grab as fast.
  4. ray_ray Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    The Philippines
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08\013 WR250, 010 TC250, 012 TC250
    Not sure of how or where you ride, but I think this is also a skill that separates riders ... Watching the MX PRO riders alot, both in slow-MO and pics, I finally saw a rider using just the toe of his boot to press the lever down ...This works for me when I can remember on the fly to just use my toe ...Its almost like feathering the clutch; it takes practice and a skill you learn.

    Most of my riding is on trails (or at least that is all I'm concerned with currently), the rear brake is just locked to slide the rear tire or I drag it slightly over rough terrain to set the suspension and keep the rear end settled down.

    I'm Ok with air or whatever gets in mine ... Might be some pad work you might can do or some other trick someone out here knows about... For me, its a seat time issue.
  5. Cosmokenney Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    North Auburn, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '17 TX300
    Other Motorcycles:
    Yamaha FZ-09
    McKay likes this.
  6. bulto Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2002 cr 250
    Other Motorcycles:
    ktm maico honda
    Try to adjust your pedal to get what you want. Ray ray makes good sense though. Them boots makes for practice. Ride it you will get it. Nice bike!
  7. McKay Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sanger, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 FE350S, 2016 TE300
  8. McKay Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sanger, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 FE350S, 2016 TE300

    Thanks, my pedal is right where I want it. I'll try some of the others recommended by cosmo. Seems I'm not the only one.
  9. Huskynoobee CH Sponsor ZipTy Racing

    Location:
    Castaic, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE449 2006 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    HDUltra Classic IT200 YZ250 SV650s
    Carbon is great for that as they need much more heat to get grabby. Only other thing would be the placement of the lever tip. The height may be right but the shape/size of the tip may be something to consider.
    McKay likes this.