I have my rear brake pedal adjusted as low as it will go. It still isn't low enough. I can lock up the rear wheel and my boot is still hovering above the front peg. It makes it very difficult to modulate the rear brake like I should be able to. From the looks of it, I'd need some kind of bracket that would allow me to raise the rear master cylinder upward. Any ideas?
Hello: I had the same problem on my 610. I changed to organic brake pads and that made an AMAZING improvement on brake control I have less agressive boots than you that aren't as bulky, I had trouble with the shifter too, so I shopped for boots with a lower toe profile. On the right boot I took my angle grinder and ground the soul of my brand new 300.00 boots where the toe meets the brake lever and got a little more clearance. Now for the good part!! George at Uptite makes a new toe piece for the lever that gets you another 3/16 of an inch. The factory one angles upward, and his comes out level. Simply grind off the rivet, and bolt his back on, and problem solved ! Between changing the pads (at his recomendation anyway) and the new toe piece I have zero brake issues now!! Oh yeah, and grinding the soul of the new boots... Uptite Husqvarna.....714-540-2920
I forgot to mention too.... If you look close at the distance between the lever and the foot peg, there's not much room to play with... if you change the way the master cyl. mounts, you could end up hitting the foot peg. So that took me back to the toe piece. If you want to get your money's worth out of your rear pads, you take a grinder and grind some pad off of the ends and "lessen" the braking surface area. I did that for awhile and it worked great. When you put the organic ones in it, be ready It won't stop at all for about 100 or so miles until they wear in. Then they're awesome!!! Happy Trails....
Good advice!! Organic pads and maybe a different pair of boots and I would think you would be ok. I to had to change to organic pads and adjust as low as possible and switch boots on my 125 husky, Now good to go!
It's not a pads & boots issue. The pedal is simply too high. My ankle doesn't bend far enough in order for me to stay planted on the pegs and brake at the same time. It doesn't matter if I'm wearing MX boots, street boots, or ballet slippers.
The 630 really doesn't have enough adjustment there?? ON the 610, I like my brake pedal lower than anyone else I know as well, and I JUST got enough out of the adjustment to REALLY make me happy. Actually even thought about going up EVER SO SLIGHTLY after a lil while. But figured I spent the time to get the adjustment and freeplay just right again to leave well enough alone and instead put my time to something more productive like that oil change I've been putting off cause everytime I look at her, I just wanna ride!!!
I used to run mine pretty low on my sportbikes. With it adjusted as low as possible on my TE, the pedal is just about level with the peg. I need it lower than the peg so the natural position of my foot isn't enough to lock the rear wheel. As it is right now, if I stand on the pegs with my toe on the brake pedal, the wheel locks up. It's just not natural to me to have to point my toe to the sky in order to not be skidding along. I want to have to actively press the pedal in order to brake.
You have the exact same problem I had!!! I ground a little off of my right boot where it hits the pedal, but Georges toe piece will solve your problem for sure!!! I went with the thinner toe boot for the shifter. Be careful with the new pads, the bike won't stop at all for awhile, but when they "break in", your brake issues will be solved...... Happy Trails.... and don't forget to check out the adventures of "Lonerider" in the ride section.....
I have the same problem jtemple, if possible can you post some pics of the new pedal? Also, let us know if it solved your problem. I'm looking for a similar fix. Thanks!
I haven't heard back from George in quite a while. I don't have anything from him yet. I'll report back as soon as I get any updates.
to each his own.. but I don't get why you ride with your foot that far forward all the time.. I've been taught to ride on the balls of my feet, and move my foot forward and back as needed to brake. This helps your balance point, keeps the toes (and heels) from dangling too low and banging something, and is essential when riding in hot weather, or steep terrain where your braking a lot, otherwise you'll boil your rear brake from having constant pressure on the pedal... it's hard on the calves at first, but I've gotten used to it now.
I ride on the balls of my feet. When I want to brake (which requires me to move my foot forward), the pedal is too high. I don't have the ability to point my toes to the sky so I can modulate the brake while standing on the pegs. My ankles don't bend that way. It's even worse in MX boots. As it is right now, the brake pedal is higher than the peg, even adjusted as low as it will go. I need the brake pedal lower than the peg, if I want the braking control I desire. Now, if I wanted to lock the back wheel up every time I applied the back brake, it would be fine just how it is.
Exactly. I can point my toes up but doing this every time I go to apply the break puts a strain on my ankle, which becomes very tiring after a while. It would be better if the brake pedal was exactly level with the peg or even 1-2mm lower. Looking forward to hearing your update, jtemple
Even after adjusting the brake lever as much as I could it was still to high for me to easily get to the rear brake. If you look at the rear brake lever/pedal, it has an S bend to it. I effectively lowered it by cutting off a small amount of the end of the lever/pedal tip and drilling a new hole to fit a new pedal. The pedal portion is actually a wood nut insert from Home Depot and it looks like this... Took only a few minutes, looks decent and it is much easier for me to get to the rear brake when I need it.
So now the arm is shorter? I don't know if I want that. I'm still waiting to hear back from Uptite to see what George can come up with.
