• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

rear spring help

T

towpro

Husqvarna
B Class
I just brought home a 2008 TE250, used with 250 miles on it.

I need help with the rear spring.
Right now I have 1/2" sag unloaded, and 4.5" with me on it (without gear).
I still need to measure the spring lenth to see if I can tighten it anymore, but I know I will loose the 1/2" unloaded sag if I crank it up anymore.

What is the stock rear spring rate? What rate does a 235 lbs before gear rider need? I will be trail riding woods, roots and rocks.
Experience = Enduro B rider that just hit Super Senior class.

I read there are other springs that fit, anybody got any application data for other bikes I can use to buy a harder spring? Husky just ain't in many of the application charts.
 
I'm 200 lbs and went to a 5.6. You might need a 5.8. Yamaha and kawi 4 stroke springs will work.
 
What is stock spring number, parts book shows 5.4?
So if I buy a 5.8 or 6.0 spring for a 200? Yamaha WR250F it will fit like it was made for it? I might take Georges advice, I am a little over 235 right now :(

then I guess I will need to replace the front springs? Or will this preload adjustment I am reading about bring them up enough?

thanks George, I just put your Skid Plate on it (purchased through my local dealer), nice product!
 
Best to change out both front and rear. Also get them to consider revalving for you as the samr time.
 
You need to change both or you won't be balanced or happy. Pretty sure the bike came stock with a 5.4 and there may still be a small sticker on the bottom of the spring that says what it is. If it was me I would probably go with a 5.8 rear spring for the rocks and roots. The best way is to install the 5.8 and get all of your rider sags to see if you have the correct spring rates. Your forks are the open cartridge style so you have to add a pre-load spacer to change pre-load, not that the stock springs would be able to handle your size. The closed chambers have a C-clip that you can adjust them. Just guessing on the fork springs but would say around a .48 or so. It may be best to talk to a suspension guy to get a expert opinion. Having the suspension done right is the best bang for the buck on any Dirt Bike in my opinion.
 
If you go 2 steps stiffer on the springs which you will need to do, maybe 3 steps if you are a hard charger of a rider, your rebound dampening will not be able to properly handle the stiffer springs. I know it is a little expensive to get springs and re-valve on both ends but it will be the best money you will ever spend on your bike. I used LTR on my GASGAS and I'm going to ship my Husky suspension to Les as soon as I get the money. I spent about $500 on the Gasser and I think the Husky will be pretty close to the same price.
 
It looks like the following bikes rear springs fit my bike?
YAMAHA: 04-10 YZ125 / 04-10 YZ250 / 04-10 YZ250F / 04-09 YZ450F / 05-09 WR250F / 05-09 WR450F
HONDA: 09 CRF450R / 89-07 CR125R
KAWASAKI: 05-07 KX 125/250 / 04-05 KX250F / 06-08 KX450F / 08 KLX450R
SUZUKI 01-03 RM250 / 87-97 RM125 / 04-06 RMZ250

When I look at the race tech website, the part number for a YZ250F spring is the same part number as the Husky spring, but the husky requires an SPSC 6461 spring coil adapter. Does that mean I should also use this adapter to run any of the above model springs?
Please forgive me for all these questions, There is a lot of slightly used springs on the market I am looking at.

right now I think I am looking for a 6.0 for rear and 5.0 for front.

As for re-valving, I want change one thing at a time. After I get a couple more miles on the bike and it's time for a suspension service I decide if it is needed.
 
Thanks everyone.
on the back the 6.0 is giving me around .25 - .50 race sag and 4" static sag without having to crank down on the spring as much. Now the compressed spring size is within specs also.

A quick ride in my backyard rock garden proves the rear fells much better. Now I need to decide what to do with the front.
 
Thanks Raisrx251. I installed the 5.0 springs in today. They sure level the bike out with me on it and the 6.0 spring on the back.

My question to the group.
The 5.0's are around 20mm longer then the stock springs.
I assumed being longer is what gives me the additional lift I need, so I left the stock preload spacer in and just installed the new springs on top of them.

There still is some sag from when you lower the bike from no weight on the wheel to just the bike weight on the wheel.
Plus it drops less when I got on it.

Am I correct leaving the spacers in? I think the preload spacers are longer then 20mm so I figured I should leave them in.
Now if I can just find time to ride it :)
 
towpro said:
Thanks Raisrx251. I installed the 5.0 springs in today. They sure level the bike out with me on it and the 6.0 spring on the back.

My question to the group.
The 5.0's are around 20mm longer then the stock springs.
I assumed being longer is what gives me the additional lift I need, so I left the stock preload spacer in and just installed the new springs on top of them.

There still is some sag from when you lower the bike from no weight on the wheel to just the bike weight on the wheel.
Plus it drops less when I got on it.

Am I correct leaving the spacers in? I think the preload spacers are longer then 20mm so I figured I should leave them in.
Now if I can just find time to ride it :)
Click to expand...

As long as you can get the sag settings correct the spring length difference will not matter.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I took it out this afternoon and headed right to my backyard rock garden.
WOW! What a difference. Between having the correct springs, 5wt in the forks, and trials tires on both ends, this thing is going to be a real pleasure for rocky trail riding :)

Next I want to check what sprockets are on it (probably stock i bet because it's only got 250 miles on it).
I might go 1 tooth bigger on the front. I find most of my first gear is too slow, but on the street I was around 5000 RPM to do 35mph.
 
You should have 35 mm +,-10mm of static sag. Just take a zip tie and put it around the chrome part of the fork tube by the seal. Push bike up and down on both ends, move zip tie to the lip of the seal and then pop the bike up on the stand. A foot lift stand works best. Measure that distance from the seal to the zip tie. Glad you got them. Tim.
 
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