125-200cc Rekluse EXP 2.0 for WR 125

I know a lot of guys here probably have been searching for an auto clutch for their WR 125. I know I have been since Revloc had been bought out. I was going to go EFM being it was all that was available but the price was a bit out of my reach. I didnt want to purchase a part for CRF250 and hope that it would work okay. Not only that but I dont want my stock clutch basket modified in case I want to revert back to a regular clutch. Well I just spoke to a rep at Rekluse. He stated that he had seen a WR 125 in the research department. He called me back an hour later and informed me that there should be a EXP 2.0 out for the WR 125 by the first of the new year! He told me I could start doing the happy dance. No I didnt dance but I was pretty stoked. I dont know what years it will fit but I have an '09 and he didnt seem to think that it would not fit my bike. I am super excited and thought other members would like to know! Even if it means I dont get mine first!

EXP will be 2/3 the price of EFM. but EFM shares nothing with the CRF 250. EXP will as Husky 125 and crf250 fibers and metals are same BUT husky uses 6/7 and honda uses 7/8. That said..clutch pack dimensions are different and therby EXP from crf will not work without using modified plates (Thinner metals) EFM basket mods are nothing but some very small tapped holes drilled and will not effect reverting to stock. (why would you) Have tried both (even though I had the first efm on a husky 125 in 2004)..both do the job...just efm has better feel and response. Light beer will get you drunk too...bit i prefer a good taste to my beer and also to not have to go to the urinal as much.

Funny you should mention that because I hate light beer! Drinking a Red Hook IPA as I speak. Just wanted to share the news with those who are on a tight budget like me. A hundred or two could make a difference to a lot of people. I didnt realize you couldnt go back to stock with an EFM. Thanks for the info. though. So you think a EFM is better? Im looking at strictly cost here. I have had Rekluse in two other race bikes with no probnlems. I am basically looking for a anti-stall auto clutch. I crash a lot!

At most, to go back to stock from an EFM you would need to put a new hub in.

no change to hub other than some added lubricating holes (tiny)

got a dyna ring for a 125 here...in box...slight use. I do head to NJ from time to time

If you are at all interested in running a left hand rear brake the efm is far superior due to being able to easily use a two finger clutch. EXP requires a much harder pull and makes clutch use with a two finger lever pretty tough. The Efm is also completely returnable to stock by just adding a couple of washers on top of the hub arms. The arms are machined down to allow the pressure plate to sit down into the basket a bit. This really isn't a big deal. IMO, the efm is well worth extra $$'s and you will be able to run it for the rest of your bikes life and the bike after this bikes life.

I thought one of the big deals about the EXP was that it finally got over the harder clutch pull and leaves it just like stock? Or are you saying that stock is much harder than the EFM?

I've had two EFM clutches over the past few years and they always worked great. He even made up a custom auto clutch for my KX500 complete with a removable side cover for an extra $100. To make the removable cover he had to cut off the raised section over the clutch on the original side cover, CNC machined a flange, welded it on and then machined a special cover for it. It worked awesome.

I have this now in my 125 (I was the research project) It works pretty well.. the clutch pull is stock. As Walt said if you are running a LHRB with the shorty lever the clutch pull will suck...

Shane,

The little two finger clutch lever that you get from a hot start 4T has very little mechanical advantage and pulls pretty hard even though the clutch pull is pretty much about stock. I use the one that Rekluse offers on their site. This is only an issue if you want to run a left hand rear brake. The left hand rear brake is the main reason I like to run an auto clutch.

Thanks for clearing that up for me Walt. I'm no fan of a hard clutch pull. I actually just threw a Magura Jack on my CR125 today and really like how it feels in my two minute street test. Time to get some trail time on it now and see if I stay this happy with it but right out of the box I have to say it was better than expected.

you could lengthen the clutch actuating arm by welding in a small extension.

Joe, I sent you a PM

LOL. I am the research project as well. I have one in my 09 wr125. Just working through some different spring combinations for Rekluse. It works really really well!!

are you in Idaho By chance ?

The 125 clutch is so easy and works so well, why change it ? I think a auto clutch is an unneeded crutch for most. IMO.

I have one on my TE450 and absolutely love it. I use it for general trail riding, dual sporting, and the occasional enduro (but now I have the 125 for enduro's) and on muddly, slimy, off camber, nasty uphills you can't beat it for the "fun" factor. I can stop on almost any hill in any condition and just roll on the throttle and finish the climb......with absolute ease. I can also still ride single track and brake slide into a corner and shoot right out and "never" touch the clutch.
NOW, would I put one on the 125? I don't think I would like it for my riding style. I use the clutch extensively while blasting around with it and to me using the clutch on the 125 is a "must have" advantage for having fun on the little bike. To me, that is what "makes" it fun And your right, it has such an easy pull that I don't even notice it after a day of riding.

After several years of auto clutches I have to agree with you. I recently took the Recluse off of my YZ250 and while it is very very easy to ride, I think it makes me lazy. Not important for trail riding but I think it is for racing. I won't be getting one for my WR150.

I have an auto clutch on my ktm 505 and really find it useful for tight knarly stuff. On the wr125/144 it works well on really tough hill climbs. Bike actually tractors right up now like a higher displacement cycle. Also have it engaging about 350 rpm above idle so I still get engine braking. It does not free roll. Engine stays engaged. Its great. Clutch pull feels the same as we changed out springs on clutch hub as well. And to an earlier post I am not in Idaho, but in NJ/NY area..