ReKluse first ride

First off, this is quite a device ...

It is on a new bike (010 TC250) for me , so the first ride with the Rekluse was over shadowed by the new bike ... I really forgot it was on the bike and was just riding it as a normal clutch till I tried to bump-start it down a off a hill top ... When the engine did not engage, I remembered the auto-clutch was on the bike ...

Next issue, no tranny locking when stopped and in gear ... In the mountains, gotta refine the parking spots when stopping as it is almost never flat terrain ...

Next issue .. The bike will start in gear ... I did this once and was just gonna blip the throttle because I thought the bike was in neutral ... With only one hand on the throttle, the auto-clutch engaged and the bike jumped straight up in the air and about 10' forward through some guys small nipa hut ... Not too much damage but really scary ... I'm guessing I'll always use the hand clutch when starting this bike because it is really hard to tell if the bike is in neutral or not because it rolls (and rocks back and forth when in gear) very easily when in gear...

No problem feathering this clutch .... No problems at all when riding with it ... You will never know it is an auto-clutch except for what I have mentioned above ...

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As of now, I intend to ride this bike same as my non-auto-clutch bikes unless someone points out the obvious benefits of this device that I am overlooking ... I'm guessing the auto part of the clutch will save me from stalling the bike in technical places where the bike needs to be maneuvered slowly and much clutch work is needed ... So I'm seeing this device as a bailout for me when I screw something up with my lack-of clutch-riding skills ...

On the MX tracks...maybe I will not use the clutch so much when entering corners in an effort to not stall the engine ... I'll just have to get on a track and see what happens and how things feel ...

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Let me get this right .. Some of you guys have taken your manual clutch lever off the bike when riding with these devices and never use the clutch manually?

Cool looking bike ...

So how do you ride a bike in the woods without using a clutch ?

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If i would have had my other hand on the clutch side on the bars, I might could have saved it with a slight pull there ... but with only the throttle side grip on board, I had no chance and just stepped off ...

Caught 100% off guard on that one ... And the takeoff was 100% traction with that auto-clutch ...

Maybe it will work well with a holeshot device or just holding the bike back with the front brake and just twist the throttle out the gate and let the auto-clutch do the work ...

I can't answer for K, but for me, with an auto clutch, I can tell you a clutch manual over ride is nice to have and a LHRB as well.

This device is gonna make me rethink how I'm riding and what techniques I'm using ... Probably too much clutching by me in a few areas that this device will help get me away from --- like stalling the bike with too hard of rear braking ... I think I keep the engine REVing with some clutch feathering in this case many times ...

Seems like the manual-override-lever will be necessary to break the lock between ground speed and engine RPM ...

If you race MX then you will need the clutch lever. With the Rekluse only you will not have the launch needed to pull a holeshot. If you hold the bike back with the front brake, you will be spinning the rear wheel loosing traction and a slow launch.

Hummm ...I think I'm seeing your point ... Maybe it'll help some with clutch work out the gate or the launch directly from the gate? ... I need some sort of help there ...

There's less advantages of using a Rekluse in MX vs. HS/GNCC/trail. On the gate a clutch lever is a must! Exiting a corner, a clutch lever is a good option for most people. A clutch lever is a must if you want to be competitive in MX.

I'll go if no rain..... Another typhoon came across here ...

Sounds like business as usual on the track but if I have less chance of stalling my engine with this thing in a race, that will help take a load off me there ... It felt like all the engine braking was there ... I gotta get better with engine braking and stay off the pedal so much ....

Could have been worse. You could have launched yourself into a durian stand!

For sure ... Even my GF here is not a fan of the durian fruit ... She says it smells too bad ...

Prickly buggers too.

There is no coasting in MX, throttle or brake! This is tought to the pee-wee's, if you don't jump then race to the lip, brake then race to the next one. You will gain position fast doing this while not going any faster.

Yep, throttle or brake ... I was amazed the first time I saw a PRO race and its like that for them at all places on the track ...I'm trying to remember this as I do each lap and not have any sections where I'm just too slow due to coasting or bipping the throttle with the clutch disengaged and rolling \ coasting because I've misjudged the track or braking or whatever else ...

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Yep, that is the technique pretty much for rolling over a jump that you can't go airborne on and clear to the next receiver ... I usually shift up a gear or at least stay in the one I'm in so that on the down hill side, I have a tall gear for speed and do some clutch play to get a fast run down and then hit the back-side of the receiver as hard as I can as long as it does not kick me straight into the air ... These guys here have this technique down pretty good ...

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I got into a little gnarly uphill stuff with this clutch for the first time a few days ago ... Not alot but enough to see I need more practice \ a different technique here also ... I'm thinking in this slow, technical stuff, a rider needs to just keep his hand off the manual-override-lever always ... And somehow the bike has to tractor along and not flameout AND keep traction at the low RPMs ...Maybe this is why so many here (in CH overall) are asking for more bottom end grunt?

The one issue I saw was that if the bike stopped and was pointed up a steep hill, the bike would roll backwards because the clutch was 100% disengaged ... Is this expected or can I adjust this clutch to hold its self on this inclines with the throttle closed? I did feather the throttle a little to hold the bike but that was not an easy balance ....

When I start my bike I keep two fingers on the front brake. This does two things: bike won't leave before you are ready, and also keeps you from accidentally twisting the throttle which is the last thing you want to do on a hot tc250.

Yes, adjust the idle so the bike creeps. By doing this you will need to use the clutch lever a bit more other times to prevent unwanted creep and clutch wear.

OK ... I'll try that .... It was quite a surprise when the bike stopped forward progress and then wanted to roll back down the hill .. I had to feather the throttle to keep the bike in place and not roll back over me ... Killing the engine would not help ...

Grabbing the front brake helped the rolling backwards some but on a VERT incline, you gotta have the rear brake on ... and not possible in this case ... This might be the real reason to have a rear-hand-brake on a machine with an auto-clutch ...

Im thinking rear brake on left bar will allow faster right turns. I can get my foot off the pedal and into the dirt since I'm not needing to step on a rear anymore.