All 2st Rekluse question.

Does anyone have any experiences, good or bad, with the Rekluse EXP clutch? I am thinking about buying one for my 2012 WR300 but wanted to hear some real life stories first. I called Rekluse and found out that the EXP is the only model made for the 300.

I've had one since my bike was new and have no problems with it. Works about as good as the old "PRO" version did, but is much simpler to work with.

Love mine. It loves climbing nasty, rocky, rooty, rutty, ... anything. The clutch lever is slightly harder to pull with it installed but you don't need the lever as much. I still use the lever when starting out and when shifting.
Its the best money I've spent on the bike yet and I have a Lectron carb. Get the Rekluse. I see you have an XR 400. If you miss riding the old long stroke (like my old DR 350/441) and not needing to use the clutch much you'll love the Rekluse.

I have a z-start pro on my WR300. It took a while to get used to, mainly adjusting setup for my liking, but now I got it right and it rocks! Between that and my IRC M5B I hardly ever spin anymore.

Z-Start pro here for my 2010 300 since new. Puts traction to the ground like crazy. Combined with the 300 lugging torque and an Lectron its easy climb tricky hills that may have switch backs or rocky terrain. No surprises either, smooth operation. I never use the clutch lever. I did try a LHRB set up but crashed one to many times. Good luck. Oh-ya I also installed a 10oz FWW, a race head and a G4 throttle cam.

How did the LHRB relate to crashing? I am wanting to go with one.

x2 I just had to put heavier weights in it,that was just preference.

I found in panic situations I would hit the none existence foot brake then grab the LHRB...that 1/2 second delay cost me a broken collar bone last year. I'm not sure it's best when racing to have a dedicated LHRB, to many quick decisions, at least for me. Although I did like the LHRB for tight single track slow going stuff and tricky down hills when I needed both feet down. I think a dual brake set up would be the ticket. I rode for about 4 hours in the mountains last weekend and don't recall using the clutch lever for anything other than starting the bike in gear. The bike can pop the front wheel straight up from a dead stop with out using the clutch lever, I real haven't had a situation yet where I need to pull the clutch in rev the motor to the moon and pop the clutch to get going. This bike just pulls and pulls. The engine just won't stall with the Rekluse, Lectron and FWW. However it has tamed the power band hit down. But I know there is no loss in power as the hills we were climbing proved that.

z-start pro 6 tungsten balls nstead of 3. Hooks up like crazy!

When you go to their site you see how many top riders have them.

Must mean something.

I like the Rekluse/LHRB combo, but don't understand what you meant when you said:
"I found in panic situations I would hit the none existence foot brake then grab the LHRB...that 1/2 second"?
What happened to your front brake?

Old style LHRB allowed one to remove foot brake all together. New style LHRB no longer allows this.

My set up was just a LHRB period. There is a brake master cylinder combination mounted at the brake lever and the brake line goes from there directly to the brake caliper, no dual line set up from the foot brake master cylinder so no foot brake. Not sure how I could tee the two together with out a brake application sending brake fluid to the other master cylinder. Everyone has panic stops once in awhile right.... my train of thought is hit the foot brake first but of course it was removed Do you have a dual brake set up, a foot brake and LHRB? I would definitely go back then, I do miss the LHRB in certain situations.

This is the style of LHRB I have, AJP brand, it worked good, one finger pull would lock up the rear wheel.
http://www.ajpamerica.com/master-cylinders.html

This is the dual system, the master cylinder on the 300 does not accept it, I used one of a KTM 200.


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JKVCjpinFQ

Blair7 how did you adapt the ktm master cylinder to fit onto the WR300?

That is one of the main reasons I haven't installed one. I've ridden a couple bikes with the Rekluse and they seemed "neutered".

I'm pretty sure he was talking about the fww taking out the hit,rekluse should not effect the power at all if it set up right,hence the reason I go with the heavier wieghts. If shouldn't slip any where much past idle. a fully locked rekluse will not change the power.

I have a dual setup. The foot brake is stronger than the handbrake so, if your on the hand brake and need some more stopping power, stepping on the foot pedal actually pulls the lever out of your hand and you have all the power you could want. Its works great and its so fast that the swap over is a non-issue. You can feel each of them modulating the other. A tiny bit of air in this system could be very bad Im guessing though.

I adjusted my spring in the z-start to engage at low RPM. Initially it was mid RPM; exactly where the power band started. I broke a fender over that mistake. I use low RPM engagement, and 3 balls to smooth the hit a bit since I ride in the Rockies. With the wet year that we've had, I've definitely appreciated it...