Repack your silencer, spark arrester ?

Has anyone ever replaced the packing in their's and if so where can I buy some. I have a 79 wr 250 and the packing is shot . Besides the screen piece in the arrester is there also some kind of cone shaped piece in there too ?

This may seem ghetto but I just use the pink insulation from Home Depot. You can buy it in small packages which is plenty to do a couple repacks. The stuff lasts pretty good for me and I even use it in my sportbike. Like any it will need replaced from time to time. Been using this stuff for over 20 years with no issue.

FMF makes it in sheets or loose form. Cost is a about $10

Wow, only 2 members have ever replaced their packing ?

I also use fiberglass insulation for packing. Wears out fast but is easy and cheap to replace.

I use whatever brand packing my local dealer has, which is usually Moose. Its last 10 times longer than pink insulation and its cheap.

On the arrestor question, yes, there should also be a steel cone with holes in it behind the screen.

Thanks guys, I went with the lowes brand (white) b-777 . hardest part was getting the old out p.i.t.a. I also used a cylinder shaped wire brush from the plumbing dept. and wired it to a 1/4 " all thread 30" long worked great . Nice and clean now . Used 1/2" all thread to pack new stuff in . If it dont last I will try the moose next time.

+1 on moose and fmf, much more fire retardant and 50 times more robust. seen the pink stuff burn twice. yikes. at least that's what the riders said it was. so that kinda cured my curiosity with that stuff.

most shops sell a packing
I did two of mine pretty easy

I have used oven cleaner to remove carbon. Regular fiberglass works well. I have also used steel wool with good results

Anybody ever repacked with Roxul mineral wool insulation?

Steel wool is better i reckon, gives more bottom end but wears out in ~ a year or so. I rebuilt a muffler for a KDX 200 with the guy who built exhausts for Team Suzuki road racing in the 70's. He cut the pipe open and gutted the inner screen and joined it like a factory job then we rebuilt the muffler. He could curl strips of fibreglass into the muffler like a spiral and at trailing throttle it was quiet as a mouse but open it up and it barked beautifully. " to pass noise test yes?" was all he said.

The packing type and size of the holes in the inner tube make a serious difference to the style of power you get.

Took off my '82 250WR silencer for repacking. How do I get out the baffle? Yes...been awhile since I've done this.

The baffle or perforated tube does not come out. It is welded at the front. The best tool I have in my box to remove the packing is a spring hook ( same as you would use to attach the front exhaust springs). This hooks most of it out. A longer piece of hooked wire does the rest if it does not all come out.

I use the woven mat type of packing. Roll the new packing around a piece of tubing that just fits over the perforated pipe. Slide this into the silencer and withdraw it as you keep the packing in place. If you cut the mat about 3/4" longer than you need, that last bit will give the end plate something to push against.

The stuff in the steel spark arrestor silencer on an 82 wr is kind of as pictured in the parts sheets. More long spagetti like strands. No Husky dealer, I encountered, even years ago wanted to sell it. I tried a pipe insulation in similar silencer that did not work too good. The aluminum ones like in the avatar of post 1, I have done those with the sheets described above. It seems to take more than one sheet. They come with instructions to wrap with tape or wire. I ignore the don't use fire part of the instructions for cleaning.

Okay...I will do this. But I'm not happy about it! Why wouldn't the Swedes make this a removable piece?

Plus, the previous owner was a trail rider and ran a very rich mixture. The packing was almost dripping as I've yanked it out.

So.... I didn't realize the baffle tube does not come out on my '85 (It does on my '86), so I ended up hammering on it a bit to get it out, and eventually cutting it out with a dremel. My recovery plan is to flare inside end of the replacement baffle tube enough that the spark arrestor holds it in place. That way I'll be able to do a traditional wrap and pack operation on the replacement baffle tube (and in the future).

Others have addressed the original question, Your local bike shop (non-brand-specific) likely has 1 or more options at a very reasonable price. A couple of the Husqvarna parts websites do also sell stuff if you're already placing an order, you probably pay a little more for it there though...

Finally got my baffle tube sorted. rather than try to flare the baffle from the inside, I did some creative welding (and a fair bit of grinding) to create a tapered end on the baffle core that decently fits the inside taper of the silencer body.

It's not pretty, but I'm relatively confident that it's not going to rattle apart on me (still going to check it like mad the first few rides after I put everything together).

I should've waited until I had cleaned up and painted the outer casing to take the pic above...

use plenty of silicon and let it set for 24 hrs and you should be good