Replacement ignition systems

Replacement ignition systems

I am considering buying a modern kit such as the one made by PVL,but I am not sure what is available or if there is tip or two to making the ignition spark blue rather than the dull white spark that makes my CR390 so hard to start.

The site I have been looking at to supply the replacement sysytem says:

Please provide existing brand of ignition, and/or 9600--- or 061--- identification number of Motoplat flywheel to determine the correct PVL.

Where is this identification mark?

Are there any pitfalls to buying these kits as I do not want to order the wrong kit as it is coming from the U.S and I do not want to waste time and money?

The number is on the outside edge of the flywheel. I'm not 100% sure you can get a pvl for the 9600 series flywheel. That is unless they started making newer units as the older units did not fit the large stub shaft of the 139mm motoplat ignition. MZB does make one to fit but I do not have any experience with PVL or MZB.
Are you getting it from Penton Imports? I would think you could get one cheaper in the UK.

Some good advice

Below is the advice I received from Penton R P which I think is rather good so I thought I would post it.

There is not a PVL that will replace your Motoplat magneto due to the size of the crankshaft. However, there is an MZ-B system that will mount up to your engine. The kit number is 40652.

The flywheel of the MZ-B is not quite as heavy as the Motoplat, but it is close.

This having been said, there should be some suggestions that can be provided in regards to the Motoplat ignition. The Motoplat ignition does not have a grounding path between the coil and the stator assembly, so the mounting of the components must be properly grounded for the system to work properly.

The stator assembly to the engine cases must be clean of any corrosion on the aluminum stator mounting plate and the engine cases. It is recommended that the stator be removed from the cases and the mounting surfaces be sanded clean.

The engine to the frame, must also have a clean ground as well. Remove the engine mounting bolts from the engine and lift the engine to sand the mounting points on the engine and the mounts on the frame to remove any corrosion or rust from the mounting.

Finally, the coil to the frame, must also be clean and free from rust or corrosion. Remove the coil from the frame and sand the coil mount tab and the coil mounting plate to make sure that there is no rust of corrosion in this point.

Over time the spark plug cap to the spark plug wire can create some corrosion in the connection, so it would be a good thing to remove the spark plug cap, cut the wire back behind the original connection and reinstall the cap.

If all of these things don't make the system work properly again, then you probably need to move forward to order the new ignition.

We do not sell direct to retail, so you will have to order the system from an established motorsports business. If you have a local dealer who is willing to discount the retail pricing to you, then that would be your best opportunity. The dealer has the opportunity to set the actual retail price.

Penton Racing Products, Inc.

Thanks for the low down on the MZB kit,a bit dissapointing to say the least!
I want a kit that fits straight on with no modifications!
I am still looking around but came upon another supplier:
www.roadandraceignitions.co.uk

I have asked for a price for a replacement ignition kit for a 1983 CR500.
I shall try replacing all the carb jets before I spend big bucks on electrics and see if that makes starting any easier

Will advise on cost.
Ian

P9- I used a PVL without any issues on an '82 430 & 500. The '83 is the same shaft size so you won't have any problems.

BTW, the 500s are notorious hard starters, especially if you're running the 40mm carb. Go to a 38 flat slide, start with a big pilot (40+), main (390+) and 3.0 slide. Before kicking over put the bike in 2nd or 3rd and rock it back & forth a couple of time (puts a gas charge in the lower end) then stand on a crate (with your boot on), bring it up to TDC (choke on if cold) and kick thru the full stroke. Don't half-heartedly stab at it otherwise you'll crap the cases up (or the internal k/s gears) and hurt your foot. You can also reduce the compression by either taking some metal out of the head or going to thicker base gasket- it makes them MUCH easier to start. Of course, all this goes without saying that the rest of the bike should be in good working order.

Thanks for the advice,
does adding another base gasket alter the port timing though?

yes but slightly

Talk to Forest Stahl at Advanced Tool and Die in Muncie, IN (765-284-7653). He is the wold's foremst authority on Swedish Husky's. He can tell you what jets you need and the correct starting procedure. If the ignition is putting out a blue spark you can see in a normally lit room, starting should be pretty easy. Make sure it has good compression. Forest can probably tell you how to measure that. These things are about as sophisticated as a hammer. Get the jetting and carb settings close and make sure the choke works. It should start on the first or second kick when cold and first kick when hot.

One other important tip: shut of the petcock when you kill the engine. My 87 430 WR sat in the garage for about two years while I was tied up with work then health problems. When I finally got aroung to trying to start it I had to pull it down the street to get it going. It had accumulated a bunch of very old gas and oil from evaporated premix in the lower end. Once I ran it long enough to blow/burn that stuff out, it started on the first or second kick every time.

If you decided to buy that ignition system check out husky@huskyclub.com. Craig Comontofski says he has PVL and MZB kits.

LHill

ignition

give electrex world . a go. i have a complete ignition on my wr 250 83. it was only about £160 bargain m8

I always use them, Electrex world is the future

http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/stator-kit-gallery-husqvarna-12058-0.html

oh yes crankpin! you know that m8 ...................................................................... shout it loud and shout it proud. lets all hear it for electrex world! lol

Another Option would be to repair the Motoplat. I'm restoring my 430 and went with this option. Mine still had Spark after I fixed a bad Kill Button but I never tried to Start it. My Motoplat looked bad it had got Hot at one Point and rather than messing with it I sent it to Motoplat Repair to let Vance test it and I just got it back today. He replaced one Section on the Motoplat and installed a new Spark Plug Cap on the Coil Wire. All for $146. I got it back a Week after I sent it He must of done it all the day he got it.

Motoplat Repair
PO Box 772
Lakeland MI 48143

Lance Smith 810-231-3359

www.motoplatrepair.tripod.com

MZB is now Powerdynamo. Powerdynamo make the kits using Vape products

Many People are still selling them as MZB but eventually this will wear off and they will start calling them Powerdynamo. Still the same quality stuff, but Powerdynamo took over MZB or something

explains it here

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/info/vape.htm

Husky kits here

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/deu/systems/lists/husqvarna.php

Vape site explains the components used to make the kits

http://www.vape.cz/

They are well made quality ignitions. Ive fitted several to varous bikes.

You can also buy direct from Powerdynamo.