Replacing spokes Question

Discussion in 'General (Main)' started by Daniel508s, Aug 21, 2010.

  1. Daniel508s Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Vacaville, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 TC510
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 Suzuki RMz450, 2013 KTM250sx
    What is the easiest way to replace your spokes? I'm thinking, take one off, then put new one on :excuseme:. Just looking the for easiest way, that will not effect the true-ness of the wheel.

    Thanks
  2. ghte Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Bright, Victoria Australia
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2 x 310's, 2016 Beta 480, SWM RS650
    Other Motorcycles:
    2016 Multi ,Griso1100, Monster695
    Good question and I too would like to know if that is a good approach. Any guru's out there with a comment please?
  3. gem Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    British Columbia
    If you change one spoke at a time you will not likely disturb the hub locale within the wheel but you will affect the true-ness unless you are very fortunate. It is truly amazing how far you can 'pull' a rim with spoke tension.
  4. 128954431 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    NT, Australia
    I am not a guru, but have built and rebuilt a good number of wheels over the years. My new TE630 is slated for a new set of wheels as soon as it arrives.

    You could do it that way, but I reckon the best way for me is to first measure or calculate the offset between the rim and hub (on a straight wheel) then completely disassemble the wheel to be re-laced and true in a truing stand with offset checked with the appropriate offset tool.
    As mentioned, there are a few problems associated with wheel building. The rim can be pulled into all manner of shapes with hub out of centre, incorrect offset, localised flat spots which are a bugger to remove or any combination of the above. A danger is over (or under) tensioned spokes which may break (the spokes) or crack the rim with potentially disastrous consequences if it goes unchecked.

    The cost of truing stand and offset tool plus the extras like a torque wrench and nipple spanners will go for more than the labour on pro built wheels, but you will have it for life. Don't know about you, but I bang my wheels around enough to justify the expenditure.

    JMO

    Cheers,

    Numbers
  5. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    here's a nice write up: http://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13015

    I'm in the midst of truing some wheels as I type this. I assembled them last night (easy) and tightened the spokes using a spoke torque wrench (using the every 3rd spoke method), but they're way out-a-whack.

    Going to try again tonight after reading AS's writeup. If I have any helpful input then I'll post up afterward.
  6. Motosportz CH Sponsor

    Location:
    Vancouver WA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 TE250i, 570 Berg, 500 KTM, 790R
    Other Motorcycles:
    many
    that works sometimes when everything is perfect. The truing stand and ping the spokes approach works better for me.
  7. Daniel508s Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Vacaville, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 TC510
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 Suzuki RMz450, 2013 KTM250sx
    Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:
    I now believe, that investing in the proper tools (not short cutting), would be the best bet.
  8. Xcuvator Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Scholls Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE450,610 WB165,WR250 WR360 & XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    yes
    It isn't hard to make your own truing stand and offset tools.
    A Marc Parnes type wheel balancer can be used in a pinch or put the wheel back on the bike and give it a spin.
    Common sense should tell you when the spokes feel tight or not and like Kelly says: listen for the ping.
    If you have access to a new bike, grab a spoke wrench and see how tight they feel and listen to them.