• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Rusted Pitted Exhaust

H

Hegel

Husqvarna
C Class
my 68 250t commando has rusted exhaust. I can deal with the holes but its pretty pitted too. on a body panel for a car i'd get rid of the rust and use some high build primer to take care of the pitting, but exhaust is a bit different. how do I deal with it considering the exhaust gets pretty hot? my dad suggested brazing rods but i wanted to run it by you fine people.

later,
Steve
 
Just a thought...what about lead?
The pipe may get too hot for it though, idk.
Mine have had pits in them and I've just had them jet coated. That stuff lasts.
 
try the paint they use on pot bellied heaters and bbqs paint on sand back to fill the pitts then top coat with a ceramic, if your welding the exhaust it pays to burn off the carbon inside near the weld area.
 
Its kinda hard to come up with a correct answer with out seeing it. Welding or Brazing is Ok but only if its clean. And how do You clean out the Oil and Soot on the inside ? All one needs to do is look at a couple of vintage bikes laying out in some bodys back yard to see some of the worst patched up pipes. Its just about impossible to weld or braze if its sucking the contamination into the weld. For rust I would cut out a patch big enough to clean out the inside close to the weld. Then I would fit in a new piece of sheet metal and Tig weld it up. To do this correctly the inside of the Pipe needs to be filled in with Argon Gas to protect the weld for the above reasons. Obviously this is not something that can't be done with out a bunch of Tools and no how. To farm this out to a shop might get close to costing what a replacement Exhaust might cost. Wish I had an easy answer, I don't.
 
I just completed brazing my pipe and filling all of the pits. I was told by a old seasoned welder and rider not to weld the pits but rather sand blast the pipe and then braze the surface over. Junior stated that welding the pipe will affect its ability to resist cracking.

It was a lot if work due to the grinding necessary using an angle grinder. But man-O-live, it turned out spectacular.

Desmo
 
Desmoducky said:
I just completed brazing my pipe and filling all of the pits. I was told by a old seasoned welder and rider not to weld the pits but rather sand blast the pipe and then braze the surface over. Junior stated that welding the pipe will affect its ability to resist cracking.

It was a lot if work due to the grinding necessary using an angle grinder. But man-O-live, it turned out spectacular.

Desmo
Click to expand...
Pictures pictures !
 
Here are some before, during and after photos. I have a photo of the completed head pipe filled and painted showing the smooth appearance but I failed you guys miserably by not shooting an interim photo while it was bare bronze.

TO FIX PITTING: Heat the pipe with your acetylene torch but don't get it to the point of compromising the original metal. Then just wash the entire surface with bronze until it is completely covered. Let it cool and go at it with your angle grinder with some abrasive pads of varying grit, then follow it up with 3M pads on your die grinder.

TO FIX DENTS: The trick is to first build up a dam around entire perimeter of your dent and them fill in the area within the dam. Then after it's cool, go at it with your angle grinder with some abrasive pads of varying grit to cut down the profile of the bronze patch. Then switch to 3M pads to remove the scratches. Use VHT header primer to smooth out the scratches and to prep the finished surface, then VHT header flat black followed by some VHT clear (to give it just a little sheen...not too much here!). One of the photos shows the pit repaired pipe in fresh primer and the other, in fresh wet black paint (too glossy at this point). I removed four horrendously huge dents from the heat shield and you can't even see where.






I hope this helps. What ever you do, use brazing rod and don't weld it or you're likely to burn holes through the pipe. Yes, I know, some of you welders are good at what you do...however, I'm not. I hope this helps.


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IMG_2663.JPGView attachment 39673

Desmo
 

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