Went out to practice sand riding. Lost my line through loose sand humps and ended up running over some discarded fence/barb wire that had been left behind . Wire rapped around rear wheel and I came to a sudden stop. Wire managed to ripe chain guard off, cut the speedo cable but worse is that it looks like it may have caught the gear lever at one stage (there are fresh abrasions) and the gear lever now sits lower and I'm stuck in second. There is slight up/down movement but no other gears can be engaged nor neutral. Some web searches suggests it could be a bent selector fork. Anyone familiar with this problem able to offer suggestions? Is this within DIY repair or best handled by a proper mechanic? I have some basic mechanical skills but no experience dealing with engine/gearbox internals. Will this need engine removal? Its done ~25000 km so if the engine has to come out may as well get other service done like valve clearances checked as that hasn't been done yet. Also, is the speedo cable fix just a matter of a simple cable connection by joining the wires up again?
A Sertao owner recently had a fall where the gear lever took an odd knock, it bent the lever shaft and required opening the cases and cutting the shaft to remove it
can you see if the shaft on which the shift lever sits is bent? Similar to this one (follow the thread to the next page) http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/2012-bmw-g650gs-sertao-owners.747861/page-491#post-27869880 Where did it happen just so i am aware which area to avoid...
My guess is you sheared the location pin on the selector star. Im not familiar with your engine so i will await another member to shed more light on this matter.
I suppose you've checked that the shifter isn't hitting the case onthe upswing & footpeg mounting plate on the down? (Someone's got to ask eh) I've managed to do that to the stock shifter before. Hopefully the wire is bad luck & not more of the farmers etc laying it out to stuff up bikes and riders like they've done down south. I'm glad your ok.
Thanks Chuffa. Shifter isn't hitting case or footpeg mounting plate. I tried a bit more force on the gearshift but no luck. I think it was just bad luck and not anything done by a farmer.
Dude, sorry to hear about this. I would buy or borrow an inspection cam and shove it up the drain hole and look inside. Might be that #1 just jumped out of the selector barrel #7. If so, you could possibly fix through the drain plug if you can see it. I bought a cheap camera on ebay, and it works fine. The Harbor freight ones would be adequate I suppose. I'm not sure how far you can see in from any of these points, and I will have my clutch out maybe today and poke around and see how deep into the belly one can see. I assume you drove it home stuck in gear with no problems correct?
Thanks mag00. Yes drove home in second without any problems. About a 55 km slow trip on a hot day with no wind. I have a cheap inspection camera. May have to try that although I'm not sure I'll be able to maneuver it that well nor recognize what I should be seeing as it seems to be too high a magnification. May have to play with it. Thanks for the idea.
All the stuff to the right of part #6 is accessible from the outer case. Pull the cover off. I bet you can sort it yourself. The internal parts are usually not the issue. Dealt with this more than once on several bikes and never had to disassemble the trans. Probably and issue with part #1
Here is a pic that will help. Notice, the ratchet is not visible, that would be the part near the 2 in the picture. That looks like it came out of the slot and is wedged giving small movement and not engaging the pins on #7. If you look at the photo, the drain plug may be right under that, and may just need a hook like a coat hanger to relieve it and move it back into the slot of #7 Of course if something bent, you are splitting the cases. Pulling the side case is not going to get you in deep enough. If the cog is in the groove, you may need to spin or push the gear clusters to get things to settle in proper. Using the chain or shifter will not free a misplaced cluster, just know that if you try jiggling things with a screwdriver or bar through the oil plug, protect the threads. What I am implying is if that ratchet at the end of the shaft #1 (proximity to the number "2") did not dislocate, the clusters on the shafts may have partially moved, locking the trans in that gear. When you scope, look for the shaft and see if a clip came loose near the case, to hold the shaft from moving in and out (sideways sitting on bike).
#7 on the diagram looks similar to other bikes, the barrel usually has the star selector screwed on to hold it. In your diagram it suggests its one peice.. Theres a tiny pin that holds tge star in position that is what i thought you may have sheared, but if it is one piece then im sending you down a dead end. Hope you check for yourself, any work the shop doesnt have to do they wont charge you for.
I see that now. The only other place then, without pulling the engine or splitting the center is removing that sidecover. looks like you could fish a camera through that hole at the bottom. But the odds of fixing it this way are small, but still worth trying. Something tells me there is a slim chance that if you could turn the shifter barrel while clicking the shifter, it may drop into place. Like shifting standing still, sometimes you just need to rock the bike a bit, but there is no direct line to the shifter drum, except through the shifter, which is dislodged or broke. If the shaft took a hard impact and popped the clips or whatever holds it in alignment, well, it has to come apart. I think end play would be the telling sign for that issue. I have a feeling, if you hire somebody to split the cases, it will cost more than a new bike.
Anyway, I don't know if you are familiar with how motorcycle ratchet shifters work, but here are the parts to look for. The hook end of part #1 (next to the "number" 2), ratchets the drum, by connecting on the pins in the drum. The ratchet slides over the pin and drops in etc, as the barrel turns, freeing it for the next bite. What I suspect happened is the engagement cog bounced or bent out of the groove to catch those pins. Might be the detent roller (#5) bounced off and wedged as well. When you scope, it looks like you have to go across to the opposite side of the tranny, unlike the jap bikes, which would have it right under the cover. Anyway, this barrel is what you would have to be moving on as you work the shifter, and maybe with a long thin somewhat bendy bar, push on the shifter ratchet arm/dog. I should look up the proper term for that, LOL. That's why the oil plug access would have been best to look and fix. Still, the odds are minimal, but considering the expense and time to pull the engine and split the halves, well worth looking and trying while on the bike. The expense here is labor, new gaskets and maybe the shifter. If a shop does it, they are going to do it by the book, if you do it, you can fix only what needs fixing. Also, once you split the cases, it is no longer virgin. Take pictures
Update. Bike is no longer virgin. magOO looks like you were on the money. I'm told the lever on the gear shaft is bent. If I understand it correctly, then the wire I ran over caught my gear shift and tore it down, the lever had no were to go except sideways. Lucky the wire didn't catch my boot. Hate to think what that might have resulted in I think I'm up for new gear shaft with the lever and required gaskets. The big cost will be labour. Mechanic said all other parts looked normal. Valve clearances checked and were good (25000 km). No carbon build up in cylinder/piston. Valves look fine. This is good, I'm running an AF-XIED to enrich the mixture a bit. Is there any point in putting new rings in while everything is apart ?
to avoid a similar issue in the future, either install a lever that is less rigid and will bend more easily or drill a couple of holes in the OEM one to weaken it. Replacing a lever is a LOT cheaper than replacing the gear shaft. Common problem on all of the BMW 650 singles.
