I'm thinking about buying a Scotts Stainless oil filter, Since they haven't put the TR on their applications list yet should I buy it for the BMW G 650X? http://www.scottsonline.com/Product_Purchase.php?PartType=3&Bike_ID=6095
Maybe check with them, but it certainly takes the same paper filter as the X, as does the GS. Looks the cats meooow!
Any one confirmed the paper filter on the GS and x to be the same? Because the kn-151 is not the same and it goes to the GS and x
I used BMW part #11117658311 oil filter kit for my oil change and the oil filter was an exact match for the original. The following BMW parts dealer shows this: http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/prod...r-kit-bmw-g650gsf650gsdakar-11117658311-p-871
I also bought a BMW # 11117658311 for my first OCI, popped into the BMW dealer while driving by & had them look up the part #. No issue with that one.
Not to be a buzzkill, but have you read any of the threads on here about Scott's oil filters? There's some really good cons about them. I love the idea of a reusable filter, but the time and effort spent to possibly not clean it properly just doesn't out weigh the cost and ease of disposable ones. You can also cut your disposable ones apart and inspect them for any signs of problems. Really do your research, your motor is too valuable.
It is good is to change oil often on engines with small sump capacities. Stainless filters have a higher absolute filtration rate than paper. A stainless filter with frequent oil changes is the best for bikes like my 310. You decide what is best for your 650.
I agree, the largest con about SS filters is the convenience of cleaning them. The best way to run SS filters is to have two of them that way you can always have one that is clean. This can be costly because Scott's filters aren't cheap. I would call PCRacing with your filter dimensions, they might have one that fits and theirs are $30. On my SS filters, I have a wooden dowel that I push into the end of the filter that plugs the hole and serves as a handle. First I wash the filter with cheap brake cleaner, then dunk and swirl in hot soapy water. After rinsing, I dry with an air compressor from the inside -> outward. Whole process is 5 minutes for me. SS filters are good, they will out flow paper and fiber 7 to 1, they catch debris down to 35 micron on the first pass and they are extremely reliable (meaning they don't come apart).
Yeah, cleaning isn't really that big an issue IMO. I first spray the filter with degreaser to get rid of as much oil as possible. Then I have one of those sonic-jewelery cleaners that I put a soapy solution in and give the filter a bath with that for 10 to 15 minutes. I figure that will dislodge as many little particles in the filter as possible. Then I blast it from the inside with compressed air to blast any loose particles outwards. That pretty much dries it but I will often leave it out a bit longer to dry properly before putting it back in and filling the engine with oil. What I like about the stainless filter is that I know it is clean with every oil change (which is every 5 engine hours at the most). With that frequency of changing I figure the stainless filter pays for itself within a year easily. Each to their own I guess. Interesting about filter interchangeablility - I wouldn't have thought they'd be compatible and still make a firm enough seal.
I've got a little cheapo ultrasonic cleaner I use for mine also. I just put a rubber plug in the filter outlet to keep the junk out of the inside of the filter and drop it in the cleaner for a while. When it's done, I blow it out with compressed air.
I bought an AMSOIL filter made for the BMW G650. It looked identical to the old, so I went with it. AMSOIL cross-referenced their own product with KN-151/HF151. All the fittings/gaskets were identical. I feel like any filter designed to fit the BM 650s should fit the TR.
old thread, but the correct Scotts filter is # 2151, from the company's email I just got. Ordering now... fingers crossed.
I put one on my Tornado and it very nearly destroyed the engine. The cleaning regime at the time was to wash it in kero, but this did not remove the sludge, which gradually built up to the point that the filter was crushed by the oil pump pressure. The release valve wasn't sufficient to bypass enough oil and the cam chain was starved of oil. The chain normally lasts 25,000 km on a 900 Tornado, but this one was screwed in 10,000. If it had been left until the normal replacement time, it would have broken and that would have been the end of my valves. The only way to be sure that a s/s filter is clean is to inspect it under a microscope. Scotts did not want to know about my issue. They blamed my clutch! Clutches don't wear that much in 6 oil changes (30,000 km) , and that's how much it took to do the damage. It's still fine after 100,000 kms. Besides, shouldn't you be able to clean that out of the filter? They also stated that the bypass valve isn't designed to fully bypass. Repco, here in Oz were astounded at this statement. My advice? Don't touch them. (http://www.engenia.com.au/03_Maintenance/12_OilAndFilter/ScottsFilter.html)
I would agree, don't touch them. Throw away the filter at oil change time. 30 microns seem a bit week for filtration.
35 microns is very good, especially considering that the fiber filters will pass 300 micron particles. Stainless steel filters typically out flow fiber and paper filters 7 to 1. Cleaning these filters is painless and easy, but does require compressed air be sprayed in from the inside outward. I clean mine in both solvent and in hot soapy water before blowing out. 11,000 hard race miles between two KTM 525's, not a single problem.
35 micron is 0.0013779527559055 of an inch. That is 1.4 thousandths of an inch. 320 grit is 31 micron. Sorry, 35 is not good in my book.
Neither is 300. Which is the lesser of two evils...a filter that catches all particles 35 microns or larger absolutely, or a filter that catches some particles 15-20 microns in size, but lets particles much larger, up to 300 microns, through before finally catching them after multiple passes through the filter (and through your engine)?
Stainless steel filters are "absolute", so a 35 micron stainless filter is 35 micron. All paper and fiber filters listed at their micron levels are only "up to" that micron level. The real way we clean our oil is to change it, every 300 miles for me.
The only reason people by filters for $2.99 is because they cannot find them for 99ยข Amsoil 15 micron absolute. Wix 10-12 micron 98% Fram 30-40 micron nominal Does Amsoil make one for the Terra/BMW?
