I applied 4 thin layers of silicone to the spoke nipples, waiting at least 48 hours between each layer. View attachment 35120 View attachment 35121 After letting the wheels cure for another 3 days I added one strip of Gorilla tape over the silicone to protect it from abrasion. Make sure you apply the tape with the tail rotating away from wheel travel to prevent unraveling. Because I'm pretty anal, I then added a rim strip to ensure the tape will not unravel. View attachment 35122 I then used 3 gooseneck tires irons that I purchased from Moto Race many, many years ago (anyone remember them?) and levered the tires on. It only took me 15 minutes and the beads popped with only 25 PSI! I put in 40 lbs of air in the tires, balanced them and let them sit for 2 weeks. No air loss at all, success! But to really be sure, I'll have to put some miles on them and send you guys an update as soon as I can. Now I have to either modify my kickstand or get a shorter one so I can go motard riding! One tube of the GE Type II silicone is plenty, I bought a whole case so if anyone out there needs a tube, I'll sell it at my cost ($8.50/tube) and ship it to you for free, in the US. Good luck and Happy Holidays!
I just drip a little Boeshield T9 on the spoke threads around the nipples and spin the wheel to help it wick in. It dries to a waxy finish and keeps water out and prevents the spokes from seizing in the nipples. Trick I learned from mountain biking I carried over to dirt biking.
I don't know what Boeshield is but if it dries waxy like that would be good. When I build wheels I lube the spoke threads with a mixture of chainsaw bar oil and never seize. My question though was regarding the adjustability of the nipples when they are covered with a thick layer of silicone. Will they turn without disturbing the silicone?
With the added silicone, Gorilla tape and rim strip, I still cut over 4 pounds total off the wheels. Also, thanks for the tip on using Boeshield, I do use this and am also friends with fellow R90S owner, Peter Schwarz, who distributes Boeshield. I must have about 20 cans of this excellent lube thst he gave me.
Great for wiping down a bike, as it is a great degreaser that's relatively safe for finishes. I also spray it on fasteners and all contacts after washing for that wax coating. The front of my Duc engine is exposed to alot of road spray and much starts to corrode in time. easy to spray on fastener heads that quickly deteriorate.
Not to get too OT here but I have been around a 90S or two myself and haven't heard of anyone on this forum with one.. I had a 75 DO when it was a year old and currently have a 74 SS and a 76 DO. What's up with your 75? Fun old bikes
Great for wiping down firearms to prevent rust also. I love the stuff and always keep a couple spray cans around along with a squirt bottle for chains and spoke nipples.
Xcuvator, I'm hoping the silicone won't get disturbed if I have to adjust the spokes. The spoke ends are set about an eighth inch below the nipple surface and with 4 thin layers of silcone over the packed silicone inside the nipple, I think I should be ok. I have a D.O and S.S. R90S, both 1976, bought new, along with a 1978 Duc Sport Desmo, 92 900SS, 78 750 F1 tri color and a few other toys.
I tried this about 4 or 5 times with my warp 9 wheelset. I got them to hold air for 2 weeks. Went for a 15 minute ride and the front was flat. Here is my take, the warp 9 nipples protrude from the drop center way way way more than they should. When I applied goop, window weld, silicone, and whatever the hell else I could find here is what happened; The air bubbles would rise from the center of the spoke nipple and make a tunnel up through the silicone. This then caused a leak (obviously) and layer upon layer of random different formulations of crap the same exact thing happened. I let them sit about 2 days before putting the tires on. I have done this on excel/talon set and ktm behr set and the nipples are in the rim not protruding outward. I even tried covering the entire drop center in silicone....no dice! Also about the 4lbs. I think he means combined both tubes, if so that is accurate to some extent. Also the warp 9 wheels are EXTREMELY heavy compared to any other supermoto wheel I could compare them to. Heavy is more durable right? They could benefit considerably from running tubeless.
Outex makes the best kit out there, no its not $10 at your local hardware store but they don't leak and are top notch kits. I've used them on my race bikes and stunt bikes no issues and super easy to install.
Sealed 3 wheels using 3M extreme sealing tape, all three are holding air 2 years and numerous tyre changes later, no leaks. Initial materials cost was high-ish, but can do 12-15 wheels, works out at around $20 a wheel.
