250-500cc Secret tool for Cylinder Nut inside the power valve cover?

To get it out I chanced it and used an open-end wrench at an angle and got only a small amount of turn at a time. But on reassembly, I'm kind of lost on how I might get my torque wrench on that nut. Any suggestions?

No torque wrench will fit, i ground down my 14mm spanner so i can get a firmer purchase and cranked it up.

I bought this Motion Pro torque wrench adapter dealio when I did my KTM top end and had to grind it to fit as juicy mentioned. Doing a 165 kit on my '06 WR125 and it fits fine on the Husky too. -Eddie

I jus used a normal ring spanner with no grinding but Pv actuation/cover went on afterwards. I think.

Don't remember having any trouble with it. Same deal on 300 think need to use ground down ringy or open ender

Just give it a good snug... you should only really have to worry about torque with the head bolts

Yeah l made a cheap imitation of the motion pro unit by using a cheap 14mm spanner, grinded the end to fit between the PV and that nut, heated and dumped into oil to temper it back then welded a 11mm 3/4" socket (for my torque wrench) slam bang in the middle...works well
PS. if you use an open ender, it will round out the nut.

My snap on 14mm box wrench fit fine. Did the "calibrated elbow" method. So far so good no leaks

Must say A) didn't enen know the torque spanner adaptor existed, will be doing that for sure.
B) open ended works just fine for me, not saying if its a cheap spanner not enough purchase etc it wont but my draper expert spanners (cheap sh@) do just fine.

On the 2k WR250, l can't get enough purchase as the PV rod is in the why, tried with a stahlwille open end and l felt a burr coming on..think of tapping an M10 nut to a M12 in future.

I cross tighten by hand, then move on to a box end wrench and work in a crossing pattern till I'm ready for the torque wrench. I properly torque the nut or nuts that I can. Then "check" the tightness of those with the box end and apply the same elbow pressure to the rest of the nuts.

Sounds like you guys need a set of simple box ended Metric torque wrench adaptors. The reduction of actual torque when adding 2" to the overall wrench extension length is an easy math equation.

I've used a set like this for years, in size 5/8" and 9/16" for shouldered ARP nuts with "reduced head sizes", best thing for ARP shouldered 12 point nuts used on the 4 head studs that must be tightened from in the lifter valley on each of the cylinder heads building Stock Iron block and Aluminum Chrysler Hemi's. Sure it can be done with a box end wrench but this is the accurate way to do it.

As an example, a torque reading of 68ft.lbs. equaled 72ft.lbs. of torque as was required on a regular deep well socket connected directly on the torque wrench for tightening the nuts on the other 13 studs.

Using open ended crows foot extension adaptors for a torque wrench or ratchet is not the best idea either when these are available.

I just looked those sets up. $160+
It's a great idea, but I think I'll grind and weld one up out of a cheap harbor wrench and socket. I rarely run into a bolt that isn't directly accessible via my torque wrench.

That's just that particular brand. Many off set box ends torque adaptors are available for much less. Can be purchased individually as well. These will not distort the reduced size thinner heads on shouldered 12 point, expensive NAS type nuts on any other thin walled hardware either.

If you choose to upgrade to an easier nut to get to by going to a reduced head with a 12 point metric size from someone like ARP. I prefer to do it with quality hardware. and quality tools.

It will be easier to get at without resorting to grinding up a wrench. A few nuts would be about the same as a cheap wrench and what's your time worth? I always consider that too.

But do what ever you would like to do.

I was merely making the suggestion of 2 ways to do this by offering proper options to make it easier. The tools are out there, they are very common.

You can probably find a set of them at your local "Harbor Freight Tools" too. Just ask. Priced at a fraction of the above sets cost.

Big Timmy agree with you on many points but unfortunately the home bloke doesn't want to spend (or not allowed ) on torque adaptors and the reality is many may consider these once off and see as a waste of money... but in my case they are hard to find and particularly $$ in this country and need to fashion one out due to necessity.

If should be pointed out that when using torque adapter even home made ones that using it on a 90 angle will reduce the torque variation, if you want to use it at 180 degree, need to calculate the length or else the torque setting will be off.

RE: ARP reduced nuts, big ..but l only have imperial ones, damn you Americans. Anyway, l would always harden modified nut before l use for any application like a cylinder nut.

Apologies, I atually appreciate your post. I learned something. I didn't even know those existed. Like OMG suggested, however, this is something I'll probably use once every year or two and can't justify the cost.

old school method
a fish weight scale and a box wrench
do a little math and you get the correct torque every time
as in if the wrench is 8"
8/12 or 4 more is 1/2 again
add 1/2 again to the number and 12 foot pounds equals 18 fish pounds

12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.25, 8740 Chrome Moly
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 300-8307
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

2-Pack: 300-8327
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

10-Pack: 300-8337
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10





12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.25, 8740 Chrome Moly
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 300-8308
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 300-8328
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 300-8338
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10




12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.00, 8740 Chrome Moly
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 300-8347
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 300-8367
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 300-8387
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10




12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.75, 8740 Chrome Moly
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 300-8376
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 300-8386
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 300-8396
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10




12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.25, ARP Stainless
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 400-8307
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 400-8327
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 400-8337
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10




12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.25, ARP Stainless
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 400-8308
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 400-8328
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 400-8338
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10




12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.00, ARP Stainless
12pt, 14mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 400-8347
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 400-8367
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 400-8387
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10




12pt Flanged Nut
M12 x 1.25, 8740 Chrome Moly
12pt, 16mm wrenching
1 Pc. Bulk: 301-8318
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
2-Pack: 300-8338
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
10-Pack: 300-8358
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Set your torque wrench at the specified figure, then use your torque adapter at 90 degrees to the handle of the torque wrench, that will apply the set torque to the nut. Standard procedure in aircraft maintenance industry.







Power on regardless

Look there is a proper way of doing things and the other ways of doing the same things, which there are many.

Oh! and what "Busted RS" said above is true. No math calculation is needed to use an adaptor at 90 degrees. I've been an FAA licensed Airframe and Powerplant technician since 1991. Adding the torque adaptor at 90 degrees to the torque wrench adds no length to the wrench itself.

I thought those of us who selected the quality in Husqvarna products were a step up from the rest and maintained them with the same quality work to do maintenance.

Rather than categorizing any of us like some half assed kids who buy a worn out Japanese bike used and beat to death and let it go to shit.

Never doing anything to it properly. Maybe I'm wrong.

What is torque?

Basic Torque Formula

L (length) x F (force) = T (torque)

Example: A two foot lever at a right angle to the fastener with 200 pounds at the end will produce 400 foot/pounds of torque.

Torque Formula: L x F = T

According to Webster:

• A twisting or wrenching effect, or moment, exerted by a force acting at a distance on a body, equal to the force multiplied by the perpendicular distance between the line of action of the force, and the center of rotation at which it is exerted.
• A force, which tends to produce rotation. The measurement of torque is based on the fundamental law of the lever.

What are we trying to achieve with a torque wrench?
Answer: Proper Clamping Force

• Torque is expressed in commonly used units of measurement such as:
• in. lbs. = inch pounds
• in. ozs. = inch ounces
• ft. lbs. = foot pounds
• Nm = Newton meter
• cNm = Centi Newton meter

Torque and Clamping Force

Controlling the torque applied in tightening threaded fasteners is the most commonly used method for the application of clamping force. There are many factors which may affect the relationship between torque and clamping force of threaded fasteners. Some of these are: the type of lubricant used on the threads, the material from which the bolt and nut are made, the type of washers used, the class and finish of threads and various other factors. It is not possible to establish a definite relationship between torque and clamping force which will be applicable for all conditions.
Torque Versus Clamping Force Only a small part of the torque applied to a fastener contributes to clamping force. The remaining, as much as 90% of the total applied torque, is used to overcome friction under the fastener head (or between nut and washer) and friction in thread engagement.
TORQUE
Head Friction:
45% - 55%
Thread Friction:
35% - 45%
Clamping Force:
10%
TORQUE

1. Head Friction
2. Thread Friction
3. Clamping Force

Oh and it goes with out saying using the proper lube with all fasteners when torqueing any and all fasteners is a must to get any consistent readings when building an engine.

Why Use ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant

Why Use ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant

arpfasteners