250-500cc Sharper steering for the 300?

Hey all,
I'm looking at making the 300 turn a bit quicker, I've done the usual slide the forks up and push the rear axle in tricks but I'm still looking for a bit more. Does anybody know of any companies that manufacture triple clamps with a steeper angle?
Any other tricks/suggestions are also appreciated.
Cheers,
Blair.

Not sure about triples.
You can shorten the wheelbase by removing a chain link and running the rear wheel as far forward as possible.

There are some special triple clamps in the husky catalog.

I remember a couple years ago looking at a WR 250 that Bill (BMP) got from the Husky NA with a bunch of miscellaneous engines, frames etc. The steering head angle had been changed and the subframe etc was modified for a lower seat height.

Changing the steering head angle (steeper) for quicker steering was a mod done back in the eighties and probably before. Somewhere around 83 they came that way from the factory. Hopefully someone who knows way more than me will step in here.

This is a good read. Applies to dirtbike as well.
http://sportbike.natkd.com/motorcycle_geometry_101.htm

and
http://motocrossactionmag.com/Main/News/bbcbd491-0546-4c53-9a4e-03d46244c88f.aspx

I believe the Husky triple clamps I have also fit the 300. They allow not only the usuall 15/22mm offset but they also allow a +/- 1° head angle change. You have to purchase the triple clamps and the +/- 1° head angle kit.

I want add this and why I posted those tips,, for the thread started use what you have first and run it into the ground, mechanics and the math do work, but some things are pure feel and are sometimes counter to the real math of the dims. And of course get your sag and spring rates dialed first, balance the springs to your weight, then play with the settings including clickers.
my example is my TXC310R 5mm fork of above the clamp projection, rear axle as far BACK (yes back) as possible with my 13/50 final drive, its on the last mark line. For me this is best setting for all riding regimes. Its stable straight, yet transfers/levers weight into the front tire on decel for corner set up and locks the front on track in hairpins and rutted corners. I always rode with the SWB set up on all my enduro bikes, until my old time Kato expert suggested going counter to my thoughts and go long on the rear. Yes its what maybe 1 in longer but its the transfer of weight lever angle that does that smooth push into the nose, you can get way up and ride the front through the tightest corners with fron confidence.

I liked your article you posted Rob. On a side note Blair, if it starts swapping out on you, you know you have reached it's limits.

Ride a KTM 300 then get back on your bike.

I had one, ktm 300 xc. Not as stable as the Husky. New Husky 300 is much better.

Were not all privy to the secret squirrel (Army talk) bikes/rides you are, Mike haha

Make sure you have your sag adjusted correctly.

It requires a Yankee white clearance.

I was looking for this just the other day in the Husky catalog. It looked like all of the stuff in there was less offset than stock, which makes the steering slower. Does anyone know what the default offset is on the 300s? I tried measuring it on my bike and got about 27mm, but I'm not sure that my method (with the triple still on the bike) was that accurate.

Tinken, that blurb from your website posted above just talks about changing the handlebar position. Do you have any more info about changing the offset? I am also intrigued by this head angle change business...