Sherco 250 SE-R...impression

I promised I would post something up a while ago. I finally have ridden my new 2014 Sherco SE-R 250 enough to give an informed review. I've had it on an MX track and did some great single track with it. Just quickly going to highlight the good and the bad or rather just things which I wanted to change in this case.

Likes:
1) Yes, it's as good as it looks. Very flickable, good cornering and stability, it feels light.
2) Dual map switch, high power works great on an MX track or any open trails. The engine revs out to a high rpm with a very linear feel. In the low or soft power mode the top end feels clipped off. The motor runs very smoothly with no hit from the bottom into the midrange.
3) Electric start, it works great, this bike does not have a kick start.
4) Suspension works pretty well out of the box for me. All I have done so far is soften the compression damping front and back.
5) Build quality is excellent, nice frame guards make it easy to grip the bike, nice pegs, bars, seat foam has just right firmness.

Dislikes:
1) The stock 14/49 gearing might be good for a street /trail bike, but sucks for any serious off-road work. I switched to 13/49.
2) Stock jetting is very rich, the same as all the other new bikes I've owned.
3) The Michelin FIM legal 90/100 front tire scared me. The fat width likes to catch the sides of ruts and try to throw you off the bike. I switched to my usual 80/100 Pirelli MXMS up front and 110/100 XCMS in the back. Gets through ruts 100% better now.

Miscellaneous:
The bike is equipped with an S3 head. Two higher compression inserts are available. I have not thrown a compression tester on yet, but I'm guessing the stock compression is only around 160-170 PSI. I'll probably purchase the medium compression insert eventually to boost low end torque. This bike has less of it than my WR250 which had the head machined for higher compression.
It's possible to run the battery down by leaving the run switch in the on position. I removed the headlight switch and crimped the wires together so the headlight is on anytime the run switch is on so I know to shut it off.

Thanks for posting

I've recently had a ride on the 300SE-R and 450SEF-R.
I'll state straight up, I'm not a 2 stroke fan.
However, 300 is a good thing to ride.
It is a little too much at times, coming on the pipe when it's not wanted.
All the new bikes in the range have similar weight and feel.
I loved the 450. Easy to keep on check, but power to spare. I note you mentioned softening up the suspension, I did the same to both bikes on the test day, also adjusting back the fork preload. Still not as smooth as the KYBs on my TE449.
Just a quick note on the ignition switch system, the 2016 models have dispensed with it, and now the ecu cuts the electrics 30 secs after using the kill button.

I do find the 300 a little much at the end of a longer race and that is why some are going with a 250....

I think depending on terrian I am enough faster in the beginning on a 300 that it negates the advantge of the 450 at the end....

The Sherco 300 is probably the best 300 I've rode with the TE and Beta a close 2nd

I liked the power delivery and clutch actuation of the sherco the best.... let me clarify that I like a super smooth (mellow) power delivery and if I want to go faster I will clutch it or gas it to bring the revs up..... And the clutch actuation is much better than the Husky/KTM, you can feather it out like a cable model....

I sold my TE because I dislocated my knee and will be out 6 months.... I've ordered a 300 Beta RR but really thinking of selling it for a 501.... I really liked the Te300 and it was the best bike Ive ever had after the forks were fixed.... If I get another with 4CS I will get the Ohlins inserts and be done with it....

Another advantage of the Sherco 2 strokes is that they spent more time on balancing the cranks.
I've ridden quite a few Orange 300s from different years and they ALL vibrated like cheap lawnmowers.
You know the Sherco is running, but the engine is much smoother.

I was thinking the same thing. The muffler is big and quiet. I like it on the trails, but on an MX track I was having a hard time hearing it over all the 450's with their ear-bleed exhaust systems. I'm keeping an eye out for any aftermarket mufflers other than the FMF Q Stealth. Scalvini has a couple I think but I'm sure they are pricey.

I may have found a little bit more low end power last night. Even with a 35 pilot installed the carb was still rich down low and loaded up during extended single track. I wanted to try a needle with a larger diameter. I managed to scrounge up a CGL needle in my basement. I installed it with the clip in the 4th position and I think it should be a good improvement. The idle is much stronger and starting is very easy. I was only able to ride up and down my driveway but it seems to pull better from the bottom into the midrange. Hopefully I can get it on the trail this weekend.

It will be interesting to see how the 250 reacts to the FI that is coming. I would still probably lean towards a Lectron with TPS until proven otherwise.

Finally sold the Gasser, picked up the same bike from a dealer out west with 50 hours. It was not quite reconditioned as implied. OK will deal with that. Regular and shop manual easy to find and down load, French to English translation not bad at all. Needed to replace a bunch of stuff, plastics, brake pads 'n such. Parts cost on par with the Husky and Gasser, all good. The bike break down is easy, it is what you see, no mystery or riddles to get it apart. The process in the manual us logical and easy to follow. I like working on this bike.

Got in 50+ miles last weekend out by myself. Started on mild setting, bikes runs nice, engine does not seem " retarded" by the slower ignition and fuel curve, works well. This bike is light, feels good, moves well in the open and tractors along in the woods OK. In the gnarly tight stuff this bike is good, you get a groove, I like turning in and hugging the sides of trees and tight corners. I ran 10 miles without a stop and did not get tired. The bike us easy to ride and requires little effort. It makes tons of power, high grin factor.

I did note the suspension to be a little stiff and at times close to a flame out in 2nd gear when real slow. The bike did not stall. I found the found needing a little extra effort on the front brake and the lever to feel wide. I am not sure wether that is good or bad at this point. The placement of the fuel shut off is wonky, you need the boney fingers of an old nun or the Grim Reaper to get at it. Mine appears to be seized open and understand why.

I have gotten rid of the 14 t front sprocket and gone to 13/50, I am hoping this helps in the slow stuff. I have messed with the clickers to soften up the suspension, adjusted brakes, front and back and a few other things.

I also found myself chasing the front end, first impression was this thing needs a damper, upon speaking with my local dealer, he tells me the bike requires little steering input and this is common as folks tend to oversteer until they get used to the bike. Thanks to Rob Lang and Bob Billyard in helping get things sorted. I have a ride planned for tomorrow, looking forward to it.

if suspension is stiff itll cause that feeling too...

might be previous owner didnt have it set up very good....

What year is the bike?
The 2014 models I rode have WP open chamber forks with adjustable preload for the spring.
I'm 85 kg and had the preload wound fully off to get the front soft enough to run smooth over trail trash.
It would be worth checking.

I got in two rides on the weekend, the changes made a world of difference. This morning I did 40k of single track and just wanted to keep going. The suspension seems to have smoothed out but the front end still hits the "trail trash" a little harsh. I will try backing off the preload totally as you suggest before having it re- sprung as Kelly suggests. It is coming together, I need to raise the handlebars a little and adjust the front and rear brake levers. I am no longer chasing the front end, may have been the bike or me. The Michelin on the front has to go, it wants to pull you into the side of ruts and steep sided single track, it also loses grip and wants to wash out.

More to follow.

Nice bikes. It would be interesting to see what the Suzuki needles do for the Sherco 2stroke. The Beta 300 is outstanding jetted this way, not tiring at all, just smooth and fast. I used to prefer 250s but this motor is about perfect now. I just leave it in hot map mode and ride it.

Just keep in mind, backing off the fork preload will make the front ride lower and this can make the forks feel more harsh. Also, you'll need even less steering input when the front is lower.

It all comes down to your riding weight and fork/shock spring rate. Setting sag on the shock and fork is the first thing you should do.

Those original fitment tyres are junk.
Pretty much any other tyre will be better for sure.
As Boogie said, the pre-load settings & clicker adjustments will depend on your weight, but certainly worth a try as they are free.
No point ripping it all out & going straight to a tuner if adjustments cure it.
Have fun & enjoy the new bike.

I was thinking to try a Suzuki needle but had a standard Keihin CGL laying around so I'll probably dial in something in that family. The CGL straight section was a little too lean for me. I'm going to swap in a DEK next...

Those needles seem to work better in the old screw top carbs than the shorter new ones on the newer bikes. Plus the newer carbs always jet leaner all else being equal. I think DEK will be too rich. I'd also think of shortening that long can, if for no other reason than to make it less damage prone and less of a lever on the subframe if you fall on a rock or log. Cut three inches off the FMF can on my Beta, still quiet and no noticable difference in power.

I don't see how I'd could shorten the silencer. The rearward mount is all the way at the end. Even with such a long silencer I have zero spooge; another thing I love about this bike.