Hello! I just bought an sm610s, 2004 model, pretty cheap and in good condition with 28.000 kilometers. Is there something critical that i should pay attention or fix/upgrade in this model? I read already many threads here, it seems that i have to change the cam chain since it sounds weird anyway, and maybe replace the tensioner with a manual one. Here are my questions/concerns: 1. I have searched ..the whole Internet, and i can't find a shop with parts and prices shipping to Europe, only ebay and a some small moto-eshops where you can find very few parts for specific models. Do i miss something huge or i have to live with that? 2. I find the lights of this bike not satisfying at all compared to my old ktm, are these (awesome) masks from 2005+ 610 models better? Is there a way to fit them in older models like mine? If not, are there any other after market good solutions? 3. The manual recommends 10W60 oils. I know there are many conversations about this in other threads, but aren't they "too much" for a climate like Greece? Also, i have that -can't find that damn neutral- problem. Maybe some specific oils will help with that? That's all for now, (i'm afraid there will be more questions in the future), thnx in advance and sorry if my English sucks a bit. =)
I have a few updates (not that anyone cares, but anyway)! I changed oils, wtf it was working only with 200ml till today! For some reason i found Agip 10W60, so i used them. The neutral problem is worse now, it's impossible to pull the lever up from 1st gear when the bike is stopped, i tried to adjust the clutch cable with no luck too. I'm thinking that this could be a clutch problem, since it doesn't seem to disengage totally. I also think that the bike is not as fast as i expected. Wrong valves adjustment and a noisy cam chain could be a big performance dealer or i should check something else?
1-Here is an eshop which ships gaskets, bearings, etcetera in Europe: http://www.athenaparts.com/eng/brands/view/111/husqvarna. 2-I have a 08 610 and my lights are not satisfying. You could try xenon lights or Cree led lights (not Street legal); someone say they work well. 3-I live in Italy (now it's hot) and I use a 10w60 oil: the Motul 7100. I have the neutral problem only when the bike is standing; if I move it a bit, I can find the neutral. I don' t know whether your model holds one or two liters of oil, but having only 200 ml in is absurd! How could the previous owner let the bike run with 200 ml? Maybe you haven't drained it well and there is still some old oil. How much of the new oil have you poured into the engine?
Thnx, that e shop seems helpful. I changed my lamp today with an 100W one, it's better but still not good enough. Maybe some after market crystal will do the job. I'm avoiding xenon lights, they usually blind the other drivers and i don't like doing that. =) The neutral before oil change was easy to find from second gear with a quick-gently foot kick. Now it's impossible if the engine is on. The lever is not moving up, revving or moving trick doesn't work. :/ When the engine is off, it's very-very-very easy, ..almost normal. I freaked out too when i saw only 200ml pee, but it's true, that poor machine was working like that. I'm sure i drained it okay, i have done this job hundreds of times with other bikes. The previous owner was the average "ahmm, i service it like every 4 months or something" guy. *The manual says 2 liters, so i gave it 2 liters, it seems to work fine, except that neutral thing and the cam chain spam. edit, i may be wrong, anyone knows for sure how much oil does the 2004 model get?
Ok, i think i may have messed it up, seriously failed. I was looking for the second drain bolt on the right side, i didn't found any, so i assumed that there isn't any on this model. Now that i look again, i can see 2 bolts under the carter, one normal, one allen, probably both for draining reasons, i drained oil only from the normal one, i didn't even saw the other. If the other one is for draining oil too, then i could be working this bike with 3+ liters of oil. Can someone confirm this theory before it explodes?
Bad news. It doesn't start. I don't know if this is relative, the starter sounds like working, makes that constant sound like it should, but it doesn't "roll" the engine to start up. How could the extra oil effect this? I changed oils again, this time properly, but still won't start. Any ideas?
Heh. Did that, nothing happened. I also called a friend to help me push harder with his bike (the oldschool foot to footped way), he managed to fall down on the 3rd try, he burned his leg with his exhaust cause his XR landed on it, the XR is fine, his leg not that much. [..] And for the history: After many hours of thinking, searching, reading, trying, singing and praying to Marx, i decided to open the left cover to check why the starter is not "pushing" the rest engine parts to start and prefers to work alone. Well, when i opened it, i removed the flywheel ..with my hand! It was dancing there alone and sad because the woodruff key was broken, and the bolt unscrewed. Small damage after all, i don't think that the extra oils had anything to do with that - it was going to happen anyway, the only thing worries me is how easy it is to find a woodruff key to replace. (the good news is that cam chain was looking pretty good, and reed valve untouched).
Do you know where to find the dimensions or where to look for that? Any woodruff key that fits is ok or i have to find something specific?
Okay, i checked the manual, the part number is 65N1 21007. I saw another thread here, where someone says that this is the 3/16 x 3/4in, so i'm going to hardware store and ask for that dimensions or 606 key i.d?
If you want to take a not OEM key, my humble opinion is not to buy a tougher one, because it must be the weak part: if it breaks, the replacement will cost about 1 or 2 €, while if the flywheel or the crankshaft crack, you'll spend much more.
I agree: if it happens, the friction which helped the key to hold the flywheel integral with the crankshaft will start diminishing and so the load previously supported by the friction will start to move to the key. I don't know how much load weighs on the friction and how much on the key when the nut is tightened; someone says that the 100% of the load weighs on the former.
I see. Does anybody know which material is used for the OEM part, so i can find the same? And someone confirm the dimensions i wrote on #15? (plx)! Also, do i have to "search" there for any broken parts from the old woodruff key?
