1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
    TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC Smart carb

Discussion in '2st' started by Benjimoto, Sep 7, 2014.

  1. Benjimoto Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Lincolnshire, UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE 300
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 150xc Hypermotard sp
    Just wondering if anyone has tried the smart carb yet? Could be tempted.

    From what I've read they work very well.
    Got a mate with a 300 exc and a gas gas ec300 and they swear by them. No jets, no flooding!!
  2. LandofMotards Moderator

    Location:
    Colorado
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2014 TC250
    as far as I know the Lectrons are like that too. Motosportz here sells them. I've never dealt with either one but they both seem like a good option if you want quick adjustments. I can't remember which place but there are dials for sale where you can adjust the carb. Either Dicks Racing or Kreft Moto. Sorry, I'm a FI guy :)
  3. john01 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Powhatan VA
    Yes. I had the Smart Carb on my 08 WB165 and it worked great. Set and forget carb as are the Lectrons.
    Benjimoto and LandofMotards like this.
  4. Chums Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    I'd like to discontinue my account
    I have a buddy who runs a smart carb and he says he likes it but I've ridden his bikes and it cut out real bad wide open. Maybe it wasn't set right bit I like the lectron because you get the top end dial a jet. I like my wide open throttle a little rich and bottom end spot on and I can do that with a lectron just my 2 cents.
  5. Snel Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE300
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 300 EXC
    Soon after getting my 14 TE300, I changed out the CDI for a 14 KTM SX250 CDI. This gave the bike a big boost off idle to mid, it revved up a lot faster. I wanted that exciting bottom end to continue into the top end, even if I lost some bottom end. The bottom end was so good even at Colorado altitudes, I felt losing some bottom end would not bother me. So I sent my head and cylinder to Cycle Playground, to have the head cut for high altitude and race gas and the cylinder ported for more top end. At the same time I ordered a 38mm Cast Smart Carb. Reading on KTMTALK about Smart Carbs how 36mm gave great bottom end and great gas mileage while the 38mm at altitude did not lose much on bottom end but ripped on mid to top with about the gas mileage as the stock 36mm carb. So that's why I got the 38mm. When I got the head and cylinder back, I checked the height the exhaust flap was sent at. It was 1mm lower than what the manual said it should be, so I spoke to Mike at Cycle Playground, he said that he set it that way to get a better power spread. So I put the top end back together and wow the head cut for altitude and race gas made a big difference. As for the cylinder, with the power flap set 1mm lower and the porting job, I could not feel any difference in the mid to top end. The bike just ran really hot, even after jetting really rich. I pulled the head reset the exhaust flap to factory spec, leaned the jetting and the bike ran much cooler as it should.(Still could not feel any more mid to top.) The jetting was a little rich through out but it had no bogs or flat spots, so I decided to not mess with it as the Smart Carb was ordered.

    The cast 38mm Smart Carb with a motion pro throttle cable fits perfect, no trimming of the boot needed. Had to set the float level first as it was quite a bit off. Bike started second kick, while playing with the clicker to lean bottom to mid I turned the idle screw up. After that the bike was a bear to start. I thought I had messed up the float level. I gave Smart Carb a call, they answered almost right away, they told me to back out the idle screw about a half a turn and keep going leaner on the clicker until the revs go up and the engine sounds nervous. Then turn the clicker a little richer and then adjust the idle screw. All part of the learning curve, the slide has to be almost closed for the metering rod to get a signal. They also said the carb will get better over time, after two rides they are right.

    After going through the initial learning curve as they are not like a normal carb, I have to say my bike has the cleanest jetting I have ever experienced on any two stroke ever. This is what my butt dyno says. With the 38mm there is a small loss for the first eighth of the throttle, then up to quarter throttle a little more than the stock carb. Then for the rest of the throttle it just keeps getting better. The throttle response is very good at all revs. Ok so I paid for a porting job to get more mid to top, got nothing(not happy). This carb woke up the mid to top to the point that I'm happy with so its going to stay as is. The bike is so responsive I took my G2 throttle tube off my KTM, put the 400 cam (slowest opening cam on the start of the throttle) to help with whiskey throttle. Most people will not like this set up as the power comes on hard and fast but it a blast to be able to break traction in any gear. Finding traction in slick conditions takes a lot of finesse with throttle control. I think most people would prefer the stock CDI, maybe even a fly wheel weight to help traction or even just have the head cut for pump gas. As for MPG, I am getting mileage than the stock carb but in fairness the stock carb was a little on the rich side. With my experience up to now (two rides totaling 135 miles) its a no brainer, if you own a two stroke just go and buy one.
    john01 likes this.
  6. Benjimoto Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Lincolnshire, UK
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE 300
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 150xc Hypermotard sp
    Great write up, thanks for the info