yeah. i dont want to waste money if i font need to. op pu is an o2 sendor with resistor delete. search i went with 14t front. and kept oem chain. but now want a 42 rear for a bit more power.
what are your specs on the bike. 14t front is equals to +3 in the rear. there is no way i can power up the wheel in second. it barely comes up with clutch. i have PU corked cans and jd fuel controller.
PU = Power Up kit. It's just the brass Lambda plug and resistor plug. Like I said before, uncork the engine before you start playing with gearing. Chances are you won't need the gearing change once you've got it tuned up and dialed in.
Power Up Kit - Do a quick search on her and plenty of insight on it - Capice on the 500 miles - Not a chain expert but will a chain meant for a 38t sprocket handle the extra "tug" if I may of 4 more teeth? - I really do not know and am asking the masses here
Stock front and 40t rear - Half Leo System w/PC5 and Auto Tune - To be honest, I almost looped it the other night (or so it felt, prob had like 4 more feet left) with just a slide back on the seat a tad, 2nd gear 4K rpm WACK and she came up to about 11 o'clock in a hurry - I am getting small 3rd lifts when WOT in each gear as I bang thru up to 6 - Cannot wait to get the screens on the AirBox and see what else this bike has to offer
Going up in the rear does not increase chain tension. Going down in the front does. It's a 520 chain, you won't stretch that prematurely with any thumper... Now we run Regina Gold 520 chains on our FSAE cars, and we stretch them a bit, but that's with a 12tooth sprocket, ~90hp, 7" wide tires and hard launches...
any brands you guys recommend other than oems? I'm tempted with "JT" brands cause I can get a set of front and rear for the price of a rear only Sunstar, but kinda worried if they're crap. any help would be nice...thx! EDIT: sorry to bring this old thread back from the dead
Iron man ( dirt trick ) sprockets are great quality and last forever. They come with warranty, are very lite weight and look cool!
