Solved:fuel Pump Wont Prime/start (complete Mystery)

After browsing every single fuel pump thread on here and other forums decided I'd try my luck by posting this

So my 510 SMR (2008) was stolen by some junkie rat bois and was recovered a few hours later by the cops. There was some exterior damage but nothing major. Bike was taken to an offroad mechanic to evaluate the damage for an insurance claim. I went there to check it out and it worked fine. Took the bike home and got the money from the insurance.

I then transported the bike on a trailer to my garage. No repairs were done by this point by me or the mechanic.

Tried to start the bike, but the fuel pump wouldn't prime when turning the key. Lights will come up on the dash. Fuel pump relay clicks on and off a few seconds later, but there's no humming noise like there used to be.

I've:
-Replaced all fuses
-Replaced the killswitch and key ignition switch (as those were the most reported fixes on forums)
-Visually checked all wires and connectors behind the dash and reconnected them
-Visually checked all wires and connectors behind the headlight and reconnected them
-Visually checked all ground wires
-Recharged the battery
-Connected the wires that come out of the fuel tank to a battery and the pump does work

I showed the electrical diagram to an amateur mechanic and he said the fuel pump might have some fuel pressure sensor and it might not be working?

Check all connections and grounds under tank, you are just not getting power/ground to the pump when installed. Check for power wire that has been rubbed bare and is touching metal. Identify the power wire to the pump (mine was green w/red stripe) and check that specific wire all the way up and down.







This last pic, there were 4 dark blue ground wires for several components bundled together and fastened with a single ring terminal, the ring broke and all grounding was lost to 4 items.

might have to take the tank off and remove the pump. They can come loose and undone, there are several post in here that will show you what/how to inspect and address the issue.

Also be sure to load test your battery. It can be fully charged and still not supply the correct voltage under a load.

Paw Paw

Get a meter and check for 12V at the pump connector? If not, work back from there.

This was a very common problem. If never addressed, pull tank and pump and secure pump with zipties.

Hey Juice-

also, just run 12v straight to the pump. you should be able to start your bike if everything else is good. nice and quick isolating procedure.

SOLVED (sort of):

Sorry for my absence but I've been busy. All I did to fix the issue was clean the ground wires attached to the electric starter and battery terminals. Turned the key and fuel pump fired right up. The oil from the chain must've coated the ground wire connectors. After replacing parts and paying a mechanic to go through the bike with a multi-meter I really have to question my intelligence.

Bike started and ran like it used to except the idle was about 1750 (used to be a steady 1900)
Rode the bike the entire day without problems.

A day later went to start the bike because I wanted to fiddle around with the iBeat. It hesitated starting and would eventually start but this time the idle was really low, only 1300 and would die without throttle. The idle adjustment screw did nothing and iBeat showed no errors.

-TPS voltage was 908 mV with cold engine (Found this odd as many report here that their TPS is set over 1000 by default)
-Brand new air filter
-Rethightened the clamp on the airboot
-The wires under the tank are soaked with gasoline but the fuel line isn't leaking


I'm going to check valves, timing, remove the black screen from behind the filter, charge the battery next time I'm at the garage. Anything else?

The TPS setting on the 510 is like 100.5 vs 102.7 for an xlite so I can't comment on the mV setting with certainty.
I can tell you that the TPS setting DOES effect idle speed. I do "THINK" the mV and % are inverse so that 908 might be too high at around 105% which is too high and would cause a low idle, but it is only a guess if I recall correctly.

Try to set the TPS to 100.5% at WOT on a warm engine and see what happens.

You may have to click a setting to change I=Beat from the mV to % scale if I recall.

But the weird thing is that the bike worked fine for a day (lots of hot and cold starts) and the next day wouldn't idle. There wasn't an impactful change in humidity, temperature or elevation between the two days. I didn't change anything on the iBeat and doubt the TPS would adjust itself

Edit: Only thing I could think of is that the battery has gone bad/on it's way out. It's the battery that came with the bike and I've used it for a few years not mention the unknown amount of years the previous owner used it.

Always make sure the battery is good.

Tested 3 different fully charged batteries

Spoke with the guy who sold me the iBeat and he said that it doesn't matter if you use V1.0 or V2.0 of the software in a 2008 bike. 2.0 just has more options for adjustments.

I suggested a clogged up fuel filter and he agreed. Told to me try it without the plastic filter and spray the metallic net filter with brake cleaner so that's what I'm doing tomorrow. I'm 100% sure that the problem is in the fuel system. Either filters or injector

Did you ever figure it out? I'm having the no prime issue and can't find the culprit.