All 2st spark plug query

don't really wanna start an all out spark plug war but it is ok to use a b8eg/b9eg or b8es/b9es instead of the uber expensive br8eg/br9eg isn't it? the 'r' is for resistor but the spark plug cap on the HT lead of the 2010 wr300 & 2013 wr125 have an inbuilt resistor don't they? $5 as opposed to $15-$20 plus availability issues makes me wanna get the cheaper ones.

For what it is worth on my 125 and 165 I always ran the BR9EG But on my Stock wr 250 and Wr 300 which has CR electronics I run the cheap 2 dollar B8 plugs no problems

The Ducati ignition is digital and requires a "R" type plug but the older ignition like in my 2009 wr250 does not require the resistor plug. I've run both types and found no difference in my 2009. At the auto parts store there is less than a dollar difference in price. I did see a slight improvement using the Iridium plug that crossed over with the BR8EG but it was almost twice the price. All that said, I usually replace the plug about once per year so a $4 plug isn't going to break me.

I had a feeling the ducati ignition required the r plugs doug. all good ill run the cheapies in the 300 & keep the r types in the 125. the plug cap in the ducati ignition equipped bikes doesn't affect the plug(as in it has a resistor in plug)? cheers

ended up getting last 2 br8es plugs from supercheap auto for like $9 for both. bike starts much better with fresh plug. who'd have thought

Yep fresh br8es in mine does help with starting. So does running float bowl empty at end of each ride, man it makes a difference. My boys keep forgetting and there 85's are harder to cold start when they just kill it and put it away.

Fresh plug always helps, l replaced my BR8ES after 2 years of non fouling (yeah l'm surprised too), and lashed out on a iridium...seems to start easier but not really worth the coin really.

have a win on the scratchies OMG or early tax return?! iridium eh, flash. youve changed man.

Narh, bought x2 when the AU$ was up from rockymountain, pfft

I have run the non resister plugs in my 11 wr300 since it's first plug change. Over 100 hours.

I always run non supressed plugs and direct ht leads, never had issues with that set up.
Now resistor plug caps, man chased my tail all round when one started to break down.
Bought plugs tried jetting chased wiring nope the dam plug cap had gone, weird thing was new plug and she ran for up to a day with no issues then boom bike would cut out at lights or halfway up a hill.

Nope ditch them both in my opinion.
Some ones gunna come in and say " but you will damage your stator with all that removed"
Well maybe but its my stator and im not effing about with resistors in a system that needs a huge blue spark!
All it really stoped was inteferance on tv's its all digital now so take them resistors an put em back next to ya radio.

I ve been running my ducati ignitioned wr125 on standard plugs

It has been hard to start when cold but always starts first kick warm and has been running good

will have to try an old R to see if its starts better

I doubt you will notice any difference between the resistor plug and the non resistor. The resistor plug was made to eliminate RF or radio interference which is caused by magnetic flux along a solid conductor. Unless the flux lines are crossing the solid state component like your Ducati ignition it's no going to cause any problems.

Sorry no Ive been using BR9ES - which are less than half the price of the BR9EG " racing " ones

Think s is standard core and g are gold iex are iridium if the plug has a v in the name then theres a groove in the conductor.
Whats the b stand for the depth of thread? Any one?

B (Thread Dim) = 14mm / 13/16” (20.8mm)
R = ResistorType
8 = Heat Range
E (Thread Length) = 19.0mm (3/4”)
S (Firing End Construct) = Standard Type (2.5mm Center Electrode)

http://www.ngk.com.au/spark-plugs/product-information/part-numbering-system

Well That solves anymore questions, nice work omg now..
Lower the number the colder the plug, the slower the burn, the more compression? Or ......

No opposite, the lower the number, the hotter the plug meaning that the lower number plug is designed for motor's that produces low operating heat therefore it requires a plug that can heat up quicker. The higher number plugs are motors (both compression, ignition, fuels) that generate a lot of heat and therefore requires a colder plug that can resist the heat output of the motor without preignition occurring.... l knew spending my weekly wage on V8 engines in my 20's would pay off one day Oh, and it's not always dependent on the actual cc/hp of the motor for example, if l was riding on sand and getting the 360 @ 40% WOT, my standard BR8 may need to be a BR9 depending on the plug read whereas, if l was on a 125 and at WOT 80%, l might be using a BR9/10 as the motor is generating more heat due to the amount of WOT % and the cooling system is weaker than the 360....but if the 360 is being ridden at 80% WOT l might need a BR10 to 11 ... did l use 91 RON or 98 RON...so many factors.

If you really want to play with plug temp ranges and confident the ignition system is 100% perfect in output and the carb settings tuned for your riding, try and select a plug temp that is one heat range away from preignition (need a plug reader) as this will give you maximum performance in spark as the plugs are able to operate at it's optimum level (around 600-700C) ....word of caution though, trying to find that optimum heat range could lead to a damaged piston or seized motor.

You know what, stick to the OE heat range unless you are getting preignition then go to a colder plug or was that caused by an air leak leaning out the motor, no wait, was it the clip too high when l set it for low speed riding and now l'm high speed riding...see what l mean!!