Specific questions about rear brake and EBC shoes.

The '83 CR250 I bought lately acts as if the shoe linings are worn out, ( actuating arm on hub rotates a lot expanding shoes to drum). As such, there's no adjustment left on rod and brakes still don't 'engage".
Pretty sure the shoes are EBC, not stock and they look to have decent amount of pad left.
I've read somewhere here that EBC 802G shoes have less pad thickness than stock and so suffer from this exact issue I have.
True?
And if so, Whats guys doing to cure this?
The P/O had wrapped some sheet metal around the cam to enlarge it, but it was sloppy/ porly done.
Are there other better shoes available? Or do guys add/attach material to shoes, (where the cam works on them), to bring them closer to drum liner initially?

** Might as well l ask about handlebars too.
(I know, bars are a preferance), but whats closest to OEM Husky in dementions.
Looking at Renthal aluminum come in CR hi height, RM/YZ med height, and KX lo height.

Thanks, Dave

You pretty much seem to have it figured out either shim the cam or the little steel plate on the brake shoe. If I recall right I tig welded a piece on the little plate(s) on the brake shoe but the guys who rode them back then seemed to mention wrapping the cam. Cutting and re positioning the arm on the backing plate or shortening the rod/ using a shorter one are other alternatives. As for ebc vs stock I don't remember too much one dealer didn't like some kind If you do a real mud ride take the wheels off or the linings might become unglued as that whole drum can fill full of mud. Has the arm to cam junction deformed that would compound the problem.

I have been using the EBC grooved shoes for about 10 years. They have given me the best brakes ever. Good after a water crossing too.
The rears do seem to wear faster than the fronts. I have never worked this out either. Check your rear drum for wear as they are prone to this.
Make sure all the bushes from the pedal back are good. My drum is slightly worn, but I still get a good brake.
As an aside, the front will lock up on dry tarmac, SLS as well ! As good as any disc set up.

As for bars .... I have been using the 'Renthal - Dakar High'. Feels perfect. I have had a batch of higher bars made from T44 tubing, but not got around to painting and fitting them yet.

Yes as I said, these shoes I have, (grooved like EBC), look to have decent lining thickness. True, I don't have NEW ones to compare, but am hessitant to buy if essentially ther same.
I can TIG added thickness shims to shoe wear pads or even attach by two flathead screws.

Back to the bars, anyone try other brand aluminum 7/8" bars ?

ive always run the factory 80s bars...i know they are steel but they are super durable and feel pretty light. i wouldnt mind trying a very similiar bar in alum but i think i would only be gaining looks

I now run the Renthal RC High bend. Pro Taper ATV are also a high bend. The 83 through 87 had ridiculous flat bars that are not good if you want to stand up on the pegs and are 6 ft tall. I liked the original bars for OEM restoration and used them until I decided they just didn't work for me. I was very surprised how much different the higher bars felt. Also the laid back bar raisers cramped me so I swapped for vertical risers off the 87 and later (maybe earlier too.) which move the bars forward and give me more room in the cockpit. Vertical risers put the bars directly over the fork caps and the valve stem stops you raising the forks in the clamps. The later models have recessed valves in the fork caps for this reason.

Buy a cheap feeler gauge set ($5 at Auto Zone or other parts store), then cut and curl the appropriate thickness feeler around the non-moving PIVOT end, not the moving CAM end. I cant recall the thickness I use, but this works better than the cam end. By curling the feeler, it holds tightly to the pivot and since it is round and does not move, there is no chance of it falling off like on the oval cam end. With the right thickness feeler you can the adjusting nut so you have full use of the threads on the brake rod.

For the cost of mailing, I have and will send pieces of stainless steel shim "plates", (what-ever thickness you desire), to guys who wish it. Choose thickness from: .005" , .010" , .015" , .020" , .025" , .030" , .050" , .075" , .100" , .125" , .150". ( I can't see why anyone would want the 5, 10, or 15 thou shim material, but if you want it ...... ).
You won't be able to bend the thicker stuff to conform to shoe "wear pad" without an industrial sheet metal break, but I have that too... if you'd like me to try to bend some thicker ones to an appropriate shape that might attach tightly to the shoes.

dave.

I'm a bit of a cheap- skate, (there, I said it), .... with lots of project bikes you gotta be, unless your independantly wealthy. ( I ain't.)

I plan to buy used Renthal aluminum bars, Ebay, and Motorcycle Super Store has $50 rebate gift card deal when buying 4 Dunlop MX31, MX51 or MX51FA tires and free shipping and their pricing is best to start.

If you curl the feeler gauges to go around the non-moving round pivot end, you dont need anything more than a socket extension and some needle nose pliers to shape it. Adding thickness to the cam end is the wrong way to do it because the shoes already wear more on the cam end half, if you add diameter to the pivot end it gets the shoes closer to even wear across the full length of the shoe and the brakes are MUCH stronger. Adding thickness to the cam end only accentuates the wear on that end of the shoe and you never get full contact.

Makes sense, going with your strategy. thanks!

I cant take credit for it, my friend and Husky wizard Craig Hayes gave me that tip!

I used to use coke can shims..... always about! fosters make good shims too....

Be careful that you use the correct fitting shoe - as the pivot (opposite end to the cam) differs between types. one type has a plain half round pivot and the other type has two different diameters - sort of a counterbore either side of the half round. One will not fit the other - so take care you have the right shoe first!

Andy

When you shim and install new shoes, if you want maximun braking you need to make sure all your sleeves and bushings are all within specs and follow the proceedure in Vintage Tech that details how to arc in your shoes for maximum contact on the drum walls. It does not take long to do and you will get brake action to approach that of disc brake

Encountered this today with some spare parts . Is there any specific model or years that fall either side of this detail ? Cheers

check on what andy stated....2 different pivot types. one is single thickness....other has a step and 2 thicknesses

Yea which bikes or years did this change ?

I'm 6' 3" So I use Renthal RC High bars on my 83 500's. Not cheap but lasted for ages.