Stalls When Hot - Can't Restart Until Cold!

Hey Hey Husky brigade!

I have a stock 2013 TE-310 with 43hrs that is stalling when hot.

The bike starts easy when cold but after a few minutes, it stalls and the bike is impossible to restart until it cools down. Killing the battery in the process!

My local Husky dealer cannot read the 4-pin diagnostic plug (what?!) on pre-KTM bikes and I cannot find a dongle to buy to connect it to the iBeat software.

It is driving me cra-zy...

Fuel Pump OK 50psi Cold or Hot.
Stator in specs Cold or Hot.
Rectifier in specs Cold or Hot.
Valves in specs per Husky service manual.
Injector is clean

I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor. Same problem.
New Starter. Same...
Added a JD Tuner. Same...



Everything checks-out, yet I can't ride this bike more than 5 minutes before it starts acting up.
The fan comes on, and a few seconds later the bike stumbles and stalls.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys!

I had this same issue and it ended up being a faulty injector. I sent the injector out to be cleaned and tested. It passed and even had video proof of the spray pattern. Eventually, I swapped the entire throttle body with another member in this forum and the bike ran fine. I then isolated it to the injector.

Well well well...That's a surprise. But I think I read something like that in another post.
New injector it is!

Thanks for the help bud.

I dealt with the same problem for almost a month triyng to search its root...I've tested every component for shortage and continuity and swapped many parts from another 310 (injector, ECU, capacitator, tanks, TB...almost everthing except wiring harness since mine tested ok) and finally found it was the original kill switch randomly closing the switch shutting the engine off and making injector and pump to work randomly...as soon as it was excluded with a flying switch boooom no more stalls (after recovering the six-pole connector to redo the wiring with two separate switches for headlight hi-lowe beam and kill switch I took away the satisfaction of smashing the original switch with a hammer on the anvil)
Try to exclude the switch by plugging a flying switch in pin 5-6 of the six pin connector of the bike harness (it's a very quick test and you rule out a possible cause in a little while)

That was probably my post you were reading. I had the same symptoms you described.

Hello, so did you fixed this? Was the injector the problem?