Hello - First posting here. Brought my new STRADA home from the dealer today. On a trailer. A 5 hour round trip. When I got home, the left side turn signal do not work. Hazard lights work all around. Gotta be switch or relay. Anybody know where the relay is? I am thinking under the headlight, but reluctant to dig in. Anybody else have problems with these? Not going to drive it back to the dealer. I can fix this, but advice may save me some headaches. Thanks!
Under the seat, next to the large starter relay (has a clear-ish cover and two fuses on either side) is three smaller relays...I believe what you seek is there.
Thanks very much for the reply. I thought those three relays would be what I was looking for, but I removed them all. At the same time. And still, right turn signals work, hazard signals flash all four, left turn signals do not work. Think there must be another flasher (relay) elsewhere. I have not dug in too deep yet. Just hoping somebody may have been there. Thanks again.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm...well I tried. If you do find it, please let us know where it is located (pic would be kinda cool). I installed an alarm last weekend and have yet to hook up the signal light flasher part of it because my soldering iron suddenly quit on me
The service manual, page 5, says "Turning indicator flasher integrated in the digital instrument." That could mean there's a flasher in there somewhere, or they've got some solid state magic happening in the cluster itself. Here's the text on A-5... Electrical components location The ignition system includes the following elements: - Generator on the inner side of R.H. crankcase half cover; - Electronic ignition coil with integrated spark plug cap positioned on cylinder head; - Electronic control unit on rear chassis under saddle; - Spark plug on cylinder head; - Starter motor in front of cylinder block; - Solenoid starter on rear chassis under saddle; - Potentiometer on throttle body; - Voltage regulator on right-hand side of engine; - Neutral position sensor on right-hand side of engine. The electrical system includes the following elements: - 12V - 10Ah battery in the central part; - Turning indicator flasher integrated in the digital instrument; - Fuel pump relay, main relay and fan on rear chassis under saddle; - Electric fan; - Auxiliary fuses on rear chassis under saddle; two 30A main fuses on solenoid starter; - Coolant temperature sensor on cylinder head; - Lambda sensor; - Headlamp with H4-12V-55/60W HD halogen bulb and 12V-5W parking light bulb; - LED tail light with stop light bulb; - 12V-RY10W turning indicator bulbs; - Fuel pump inside the tank. - Multifunction digital instrument. "
Off topic but... Last week asked the BMW parts counter guy to find me one of those modules that make the brake light flash three times before going solid and yesterday he told me that BMW HQ told him that the bikes computer might not be happy with it. He also mentioned that the brake light is a sealed unit and if anything went wrong with it...there is nothing that can be fixed in it...basically you throw it away and buy a whole new brake light assy!
Their use of the word "integrated" really hints at it being a non-swappable part. It would be just like BMW to design a bike which required the replacement of the entire instrument cluster in order to rectify a faulty flasher relay. And the instrument cluster isn't just a swapover part. It's integral to the immobilizer system and replacement of the cluster would require MOSS programming to get the whole bike working with a new dash.
- Turning indicator flasher integrated in the digital instrument; Aha - That makes some sense, as the hazard button is there too. I am starting to lean towards the switch. Again, it is not something that can be changed out separately. I will tear out the head;light and troubleshoot from the connector. So, either the handlebar switch assembly, or a whole new digital instrument cluster! Or maybe a loose wire. I'll let you know.
Challenge accepted! I've got a Wig-Wag at the house that I pulled off my Honda before I put it up for sale. I will have to try this out. It simply connects in-line with the wire running to your brake light. It takes the power coming in from the battery and uses it to strobe the rear light. So the power is still being consumed, and as far as any on-board computer should see, the brake light is still functioning with the circuit closed. I'm not buying that it won't work. http://signaldynamics.com/index.php...page=flypage.tpl&product_id=17&category_id=41
I can understand how the CAN-bus electrics on many BMW models might see the brake circuit fluctuating and interpret that as some sort of fault, but the TR650 doesn't have canbus, so shouldn't be an issue.
Update on the Strada flasher problem - Indeed, the flasher is in the dash assembly. Brought the bike back to the deler who pulled the dash off a strada on the showroom. Installed in my bike and all flasher worked as they should. However, the dash is somehow married to the Engine Management System (whatever you call it) and/or ignition. Dealer continued to strip parts off the new bike to help me out, but in the end, decided we need to get parts from Husky. So, bike is at the dealer until this is sorted out. The guys were pretty great about trying to get me squared away. It just wasn't happening. So, this new technology, not so great for me right now!
Even so, the way the wig-wag works, it should be using all the juice as long as the brake switch is closed, so the computer shouldn't see the blinker flashing at all. Even when the light is off in between flashes, the wig-wag is still pulling juice to power the circuit board and capacitors.
Im just a "go green" kinda engineer. The thought of tossing the entire assy bugs me and I know there are several ways of designing around this.
I have had the same thing happen to me but on my right side and waiting for a new coded dash.. did you get to keep the old dash as a back spare or was it sent back to Italy??
For those that were wondering about the feasibility of a Wig Wag, I'm happy to report that my install is complete, and functioning properly. Here is how to do it. Remove this cover. This is where the Wig Wag will go. You'll see my yellow wire from my Fuzeblock tying into the green/white of the tail light. This will get removed for the Wig Wag install, then reinstalled when complete. My Wig Wag was for a bike with two brake lights. So I wanted to install a second light to create a bit more visibility. This looks like the perfect place to put it. I decided on using a marker light because it was inexpensive, effective, and the holes match up. These are basic reflector markers that come on the Husky, used for long trailers and such. Most larger trailers require lights instead of reflectors, so the lights are plug and play in the stock location. So I found this guy for a whopping $6. Undo these bolts in the rear fender to drop the reflector. Solder your new light wires before you mount the new light. Nobody likes soldering under a fender. Run your wire up under the fender through this passage. And it will pop out in the intended compartment with all the other tail light wiring. Now snip your BROWN and YELLOW wires coming from the battery side of the bike. You must break this circuit for the Wig Wag to work. Looks like brown is ground and yellow is your power. I stripped everything and mocked it up with alligator clips to verify functionality before soldering it. I always recommend doing this, as it keeps you from having to fix mistakes later. It looks a little chaotic, but here is what you're seeing. Red on the Wig Wag goes to Yellow from the bike. Black on Wig Wag goes to Brown from the bike. Red/White and White/Red go to your lights. All the grounds go together. The orange wire isn't used in this application. If you wanted solid brake lights after the initial flash, you would use your orange to power the unit instead of the red wire. Soldered up, it is much more compact. And the final product.
