With many of the bikes around the globe starting to slip out of their warranty periods, the so-called S- button (and M-button for the Nudas switching between maps) issues will also become more frequent with increasing mileage/ use. Due to the fact that the dash-units are part of the electronic cluster-^%$# on those bikes and require matching coded keys and ECU's to get the bikes to even start (and therefore can NOT be replaced on their own), replacing a VERY expensive dash unit (+ECU+keys+coding etc) for the sake of a broken 10-cent plastic tongue is just a non-option. This was the second go at trying to either find a permanent fix or bypass....and thanks to Nev for providing the bike (with a broken S-button). There are only 3 choices to deal with the issue: 1) live with the broken S/M-button 2) spend a fair packet of $$$ and replace the dash, ECU+ keys and have the new parts coded together by the workshop/ importer/ factory 3) take the risk of possibly botching the fix/ bypass.... and damage/ destroy the dash in the process For the purpose of this exercise, we've tried to re-create the route that Greg (Dandydisco) had taken a year or more ago and....JUST FOR CONVENIENCE SAKE!! (being able to operate buttons with heavy riding gloves) install a bypass to either use the button still or his high-beam flasher switch to flick through the displays. While installation of the M-button bypass is easy enough, we concentrated on the more tricky, hidden and inaccessible S-button. 1) remove screen 2) remove the 3 spring-clips which secure the 3 metal posts of the dash poking through the mounting rubbers. If needed, remove the metal crossbar to gain access to the rear clip. All clips pull horizontally off the posts. The front 2 are marked in the pic.
Dash can be lifted out Push the plastic tongue to release the electrical connector Remove the Torx #6 self-tapping screws all around to open the housing Holding the dash in its normal position, the M-button is the left pin, the S-button the right pin. The actual switch is the silvery, square bit underneath the left (M)-button.....there's another one (hidden from sight) underneath the pin of the S-button. Nev had already glued up the broken connector tongue a couple of times, the crack and glue are circled. As the pic shows, the actual switch of the M-button is clearly visible, the 2 contact-legs on the left (west or 9 o'clock position) are just as accessible as shown in a later pic. For M-button bypass/ fix, NO FURTHER tear-down is required. For S-button bypass, continue to dismantle. Remove the printed "Warning-lights"-foil by gently prying it off its posts. This will gain access to all screws ( BAR ONE underneath the LCD screen ) to be removed to separate the the white plastic from the housing base, with the PCB (main board) coming loose once the white plastic clip is undone on the outer left. Circle on the left shows the white plastic clip/ hook. Center circle shows the M-button switch. right circle shows part of the S-button switch. Check the M-button switch in the center circle carefully....it's a surface-mounted switch, notice the 2 connector-legs reaching down to the PCB-board. The other switches are arranged the same. Those connector legs are the crux of the whole fix/ bypass.
As the removal of the LCD screen to access the last screw holding the components together is extremely fiddly and fraught with risk of stuffing things up, here's another shot pointing out the bottom of the 2 contact legs of the S-button switch. Prepping the parts: Super-fine multistrand copper wire (from electronic components stores, only 1-1.5mm stripped (~1/16") and at least half the strands removed (using scissors very carefully). The pic shows one of the 10mm (3/8") self-tappers of the plastic housing for size. Greg grinding the tiniest screwdriver-blade tip imaginable onto a thin, 5" long, kitchen skewer (looks like last time a finger got in the way, too :-))) All hands on deck for the next step: Using the skewer to pry the contact-leg of the switch off the actual switch-body by a hair's width...roughing the plastic wall of the actual switch body for some extra purchase and grip for the superglue. A single strand of the wire getting wedged between the contact-leg and switch-body is enough to make contact, applying the tiniest dob of superglue with a needle to set it in place. The short length of bare, un-insulated wire makes sure of the tiniest bit of strength to push the wire through into the wedge....as well as preventing any stray wires shortening out surrounding PCB components. One down, one to go With both wires set, the white plastic frame clips back into place and jams the wires firmly against the surface of the PCB, there's no chance of tearing them loose. Running out of time yesterday, the above shows the most critical part of the procedure. The next step involves baring the 2 opposite ends of our thin wiring (keeping them out of harms way, though!!), plugging the dash back into the bike's harness and turning the key!! If all behaves as it should, quickly flick the 2 bare ends against eachother for a momentary contact....and watch your dash display change to the next pane. Testing out fine, disconnect again and finish off as below. The spacious black backing of the dash- housing allows (shortening, keep some slack) and routing the 2 thin wires to some point where a couple of 1/16"....1.5mm holes can be drilled, using same-sized screws (3/8"....10mm long) and a tiny bit of silicone to create 2 water+ dust proof posts, with the head of the screw being the connector on the inside of the housing, the threads sticking through to the outside, using separate + shielded wiring and screw-on connectors to extend the wiring to a switch of your choice. The bypass for the M-button is the same, while access is a lot easier and the procedure far less fiddly. Nev and Greg also did pics, they'll hopefully fill in the gaps. I'm still chewing on another type of fix that could hopefully be a pre-fab thing which could be installed quite easily without the fiddling-around and the potential risk of goofing up badly. I'll need some time to think through some of the ideas....and would really need an old, useless dash unit to play with. Now, as for that beer....
Thanks for the effort...another great reference for later........ Eventually wel will need to publish all these hints in a manual. To find out who is ultimately responsible for all that is TR650 we could just wait to see who attempts to sue the publisher. LOL
