I had Motorcycle Performance Exhausts make me a single link pipe to fit an ( any) aftermarket 2"inlet muffler. I haven't asked him yet if he is happy to make more.He normally likes to have the bike and may not have kept a jig or dimensions. If you have a Strada and live in Brisvagas you could see him and get a low pipe made. Beautiful work. The copy of the left side was $250. It is NOT a calculated performance pipe just a copy of the left side and I have restrictors fitted to the muffler to approach the std aweful flow, to maintain fuelling and noise levels ( to some extent). I used a carbon TYGA 2" inlet muffler, but any 2" inlet muffler will work, just remember that the Husky std flow is VERY low and fuelling will change dramatically with big flow pipes. See the Power commander post if you don't know how critical it is. Pipe was a tight fit but eventually lined up all ok. You have to remove the rear wheel to get the std double pipe out but not to put the new pipe in. If you do get him to make a low pipe please ask him to ring me and I will get one at the same time. Or PM me and I will ring him . He might be more keen to do it, though I doubt you will have a problem. Very helpful and quick. Std assembly: 7.9kg Replacement : 2.5kg Difference ( up high and rear weight remember): 5.1kg Here are some pics Comparison Old and New Metal lube ( moly) to both joints . It helps seal and makes assembly and later disassembly smoother. Use moly or copper metal lube not oil grease ( not High temp oil grease either) Fitted to the bike using the std mount hole and a couple of aluminium straps and a spacer. Three quarter and rear view showing the rear restrictor ( there is a perforated stainless steel tube as well around the single hole plate but it doesnt show very well sorry.
Don't have a movie recording device nor the experience to post it. Sorry. Because of the restriction it isn't spectacularly wonderful sound. Just a bit louder and deeper. My experience of posted sound vids is the sound is pretty poor reproduction anyway ( sorry that's the muso in me coming out). Sighting a mic to sound like what you would actually hear is problematic to say the least and dependant on the quality of the mike, recording stuff, storage format and repro. It would be like saying you have hifi in you car or MP3 is quality sound reproduction...oops I am ranting..lol
Just playing. Found a new source of really good epoxy and have been fiddling. Sally's DRZ400SM is getting a carbon low front mudguard at the moment. This epoxy sets really rigid but goes off really quickly even at current low temps so you have to plan ahead. Started off making carbon bits for my race bikes and just keep playing. makes better stuff than glass once you get used to working it, but way more expensive. Still it's way cheaper than it used to be.
Hey Greg Can you share any website or info you have about how to go about making carbon parts? I am sure there are plenty of others on here who would find it useful? Thanks. Great job with the can btw.
You can put a photo of the side that remains without waste? Tomorrow or later I'm going to pick up the bike from the GPR they told me that they made a single exhaust manifold on which it can be mounted on them that the original of the bike! Puoi mettere una foto del lato che rimane senza scarico? Domani o dopo andrò a ritirare la moto dalla G.P.R. mi hanno detto che hanno fatto un collettore per singolo scarico su cui si può montare sia il loro che quello originale della moto!
I don't know websites for carbon construction. I have been working with fibreglass since the early 70's so didn't use any but I really should go looking . Plenty to learn still. Started working with carbon about 10years ago when it became cheaper ( relatively) and more available and I started road racing. Some basic tips though. You have to use epoxy or perhaps Vinyl ester NOT polyester resin. Brushes are disposable. Most epoxy goes off really fast ( i mean REALLY fast) so have all your fibre cut before you start and in an order that will be quick to use. Use new Tullen cutters or really sharp new scissors . Twill weave lays complex shapes better than straight weave but self dissassembles easier. carbon is REALLY light and the dry cloth sticks to the brush and lifts. WET FIRST then apply cloth then wet properly. If possible cut overhang after it has gone solid but before it is rigid preferable with a blade cutter ( stanley knife/box cuter) Keep form on or in mold for at least a day as it is still not rigid. Epoxy needs a few heat cycles to cure properly so put it in the sun and take it out a few times or carefully use a heat gun. ******** There will be lots of pointy bits after layup. These are VERY sharp and VERY strong ( think super splinters) BE CAREFUL and clean up well after cutting. Carbon dust is nastier than fibreglass dust and lighter so blows around easier. Like glass, carbon is much better in female molds. Glass is easier to finish. These tips may help but plenty to learn. BTW forget Kevlar ..it is aweful to work with if you have to finish it. It goes all furry when you sand it.
Oh , just to clear up any misconception. I DID NOT MAKE THE MUFFLER. It is from Tyga in Thailand. They make really beautiful well made stuff and I am not a patch on anything they do ( well maybe the belly pan I made for my racing ER6N but that was my crowning glory). I have used their mufflers for racing for years. VERY VERY GOOD. Light, good flow, good price, and muffle way beyond what you think they would. If you are racing check out their Motomaggots. 800g and on my VTR which was tested for sound at the track 97dB, despite being a short length 2" hole. This is the one for the VFR400 with a standard inlet. Check their glasswork fairings. Really beautiful. All cloth and epoxy, no chopped strand and polyester. Any other carbon stuff is mine.
Hi Greg. Thanks for the info and photos of the Strada exhaust. I am currently trying to sort something like what you have for my Strada. I rang the bloke at motorcycle performance exhausts and he said he didnt do a template. Do you have any other ideas how I could get one made?? Mark
Mate that looks great, but how do we get rid of those bloody hose clamp mounting system....any ideas can we get them to mould the mount into the carbon...? or maybe a CNC job? or maybe carbon. All the manufactures seem to do it, I just puke when I see a strap with a hunk of rubber under it...no offence intended.
Well I just used the Akrapovic carbon exhaust clamp that came with it, shortened it by a bit and drilled a new hole, it fits perfectly in the standard exhaust mounting hole. I used the vacant exhaust hole on the other side to mount my tool tube. Check out the thread 'Akraterra'.
...and they do it for a reason. An integrated Carbon/ resin mount wouldn't last a week, way too brittle to be bolted straight to a 'flexible" mild steel subframe. The vibes would crack the resin in no time at all. The strap/ rubber combo is the most long-lived option of the lot....unless you go steel-bracket into a frame-mounted rubber-mount....like the s/s Staintunes using the OEM mounts and rubbers. Which is what makes them such an exxy option...the cans are actually setup for a particular model bike. Most cans out there are really generic cans for any brand/model with just a connector piece or elbow to suit a particular model....that's all there is to the "exhaust magic" bullshyte the industry wants us to believe. YES, cut them open, checked them out! A handful more or less packing, another end-cap...and Bob's your uncle!
