strong spark, clean carburator, no start ARGGGG!!#%$&!!&$

And how many times has your bike seized grouty?

Good point, but nowt to do with the carb. The other 390 is fine. If I get the time I will test my theory this weekend. (Wife, kids .... fat chance !)
I could never get the jetting just right with the Mikuni after fitting the Boyesen reeds. Woes with the float needle (even on a new carb). The Lectron seems to have cured that.

No i agree the lectron although expendo has been a marvel of the age, micrappy was usless too rich every where and i changed jets to the tune of 70+ quid thought enoughs enough and boom two adjustments later not touched any part of the carb other than choke for a year an a half now. Awesome
But expencive.

the mikuni on my 95 i was able to get working well and starting easy, but the lectron is just on a different level. awesome carb

mikuni and lectron

lectron for sale
ebay us !

referencing visiteur's pics, the top shows a new lectron but the bottom shows an older non-powerjet unit. much of the beauty of the lectron is in the powerjet, i have resisted the temptation of buying old lectrons on ebay.

What is the "powerjet". Is it like an accelerator pump?

on a lectron, it is very simple. there is an external feed directly from the float bowl routed up to the top of the carb, there is a thin tube that extends into the carbs bore. the length of this tube determines when the powerjet kicks in, and there is an external screw to adjust this.
kind of similar to the "dial a jet" setups people used to put on carbs.

Hi guys and thanks for all your help. The bike is running now, but is flodding if I dont turn the gass off before I stop it. And it is hell to start it. So, the carb is fucked, and I cant get the pin out. Thinking about changing out the carb. What is the best alternative? Lectron?
Also, my springs/dampers got a rough run at the track and are both leaking. Who fixes them? Probably just some gaskets, but I have never opened these before, and dont have the tools for it.
I hace have to buy new, what do I buy?

Othervise, I love the bike. It was great on the dirt track (its not built for the modern jumps, but it climbs like a f...ing mountain goat)

ps:I just bought the green numberplates for it...

There have been some great suggestions on this thread regarding the problems of flooding and all not starting. Have you looked into any of them? There are a whole bunch of parts that can go haywire and cause your bike to flood and not start easily every time so you need to look into the suggestions made in this thread and report on what you find. We will then be able to help you methodically work through them.

As for the springs/dampers leaking, if you are referring to the rear shocks they are the stock Girlings and not rebuilding. If you are referring to the front forks they are rebuildable.

Great looking bike by the way. Its well worth the investment in time and money. Thanks for the picture!

well, what I found was that the bike is flooding. The tip on turning of the gass, and kicking like crazy intil it started firing with the flooded fuel works. And when It finaly fires up, I can turn the gass on again, and it runds beautifuly.

Othertimes it wouldnt start, I opened up the screw underneath the carb for draining, and it was dry, witch means that the float valve was stuck again, only this time, not letting any fuel past.

The biggest problem (apart from time when I have wife and two kids ) is to get the darn pin out of the carb to rinse and/or replace the float valve. I have tried heating, and tapping it. I might have tapped it too hard, but i looks to be ok. So, it is still stuck, but everything else seems perfect, and when it starts, it is wonderful.

I have not checked the airing in the fueltank yet, but I will come back to that. I think that the problem is the float valve.

When it comes to spring/damper issue, it is the rear that are leeking. You say they are not rebuildable? I would guess the O-rings need to be changed? Any suggestions? I will take them off and see what I can do this week. I have never even opened a pair of shocks, so It will be interesting.

Thanks again guys. I will look into all the things that come up here, and post what I find out.

im not sure about the shox. be carefull they have pressure in there.

i don't think you can remove the endcap like other shox. the bodies may be 1 piece. others whp know of these shox may be able to assist. there are suspension guys who can cut the end off and mill up a removable end cap so they can be rebuilt.

seek more answers..

I didn't notice the shock's gas reservoirs previously so I'll have to change my "not rebuildable" position to "I don't know".

The carb float pin can be tricky as you have found. As mentioned in a previous post you need to support the opposite side of the post that you are driving the pin out of. A piece of wood will work, it just needs to catch the very top of the post. For example use a one foot piece of 2x4 or 4x4 stood on end and rest the end of the float post, that you'll be driving the pin from, on top of the wood. Be sure and apply a bit of penetrating oil on both posts an hour before. Also be sure to look closely at each end of the pin because one end may be knurled or flattened which requires that the pin be driven out that end only. If the pin doesn't move with a few solid taps then stop and reassess the situation because you don't want to break it. As a last resort post some pictures for us to see what you're working with so that our advice can be more specific to you carb.

I know that working on a bike can be frustrating because you want to ride the damn thing but for me a poor running bike takes all the fun out of riding. So hang in there and keep plugging along. Over time you'll be surprised at the things you'll learn.

Keep us posted on your progress and thanks for the new picture. Your bike is a nice example of a pro vintage ride, but for god sakes tie up those cables before you go riding or they'll catch on something and you'll be on your head!

If it's flooding when stopped your needle and seat is leaking. Can't jet it with the needle and seat leaking.

If your shocks have not lost too much oil you can try recharging the reservoirs and quite often they will stop leaking. I use 150 psi regular compressed air, but you are supposed to use nitrogen.

They have lost a lot of oil. Enough to make a small puddle under my backwheel.

Does anybody have any experience with fixing up the old shox?
Is there a company that anyone knows about (preferably in europe/scandinavia) that can fix them up?
As an alternative i have looked into these

http://ebutik.nccr.se/hagon-stotdampare/hagon-husqvarna/husqvarna-wr390-enduro-m-ar-78/

Does anyone know it my 1978 250 cr has the same size as the 390? If not they could make it in my size.

Yes the 78 390CR and the 78250CR use the same length of shocks. From the factory the 390 used Ohlins and the 250 used Girlings. Hope this helps,
Marty

Tho the picture shows the bike with shocks that look a lot like Ohlins.. fully rebuildable..