250-500cc Stupid dual sport wiring questions for wr300

So my bike is plated, bought and installed a tusk generic dual sport kit with little battery. Everything works perfect but gotta ask dumb questions. Before installing kit my stock light was installed with wiring going back to airbox for obviously a tail light.
Can i simply tap into this existing unsed wiring in airbox and bypass the battery or do i need to use the battery?
Also, supposedly the existing headlight is dual filiment which i guess means i can also have a high beam. My generic Tusk switch has wires with high and low beam switch apparently but currently i dont have them going anywhere. Can i also run those wires somewhere to tap into the high beam function?

If your original wiring harness is already attached just use that and forget the battery. I guess you still have the Husky l/h switch with the high and low can you not connect the Tusk high/low to that. I have played around with the harness on mine and it is very simple to splice in generic components.

Would it matter that the lighting kit is made for d/c power and the bike uses a/c?

Won't make any difference. The only thing is that you may find bulbs blow more quickly as the voltage isn't as stable due to no battery.

Model airplane friend at work told me i could buy a voltage regulator and relay and do all sorts of fancy things like make ALL lights come on when bike starts and stay on 60 seconds after bike shuts off etc for just a couple bucks. gonna make a trip to radio shack tonight

Voltage reg from RMATV, find the yellow wire in your existing harness, plug it, ground the brown to the frame and constant voltage with no blown lights? Read the wiring diagram and all the voltage reg does is insures you get a constant 12-13 volts.
PS.Excuse me for Aussie bikes are all wired for road.

You need to convert to DC if your using a battery, I know in Canada the bikes are required to have a battery so if the bike dies the tail light stays on. Had a friend that just had a capacitor with DC and if the bike dies in the trails it was pitch black same as if you crash at night, hard to find your bike

Is this a trick question??? as far as i know all wr's have ac electrical system. You may want to check if you have ac or dc on your bike. All of the euro bikes have ac electrical systems, but they also have a front and rear light and brake light from the factory.

Since these guys know what they're talking about I'm going to derail this.

What's the story with WA state and its plating rules now?
I live in OR, but would love to plate my 300 for mammoth and GP trail connectors.

How much $$ are they asking? And does it need to be in street legal trim to get the plate?
Sorry for the derail

no problem, Its official you can plate any dirt bike. I have an 01 cr 250 that I am seriously thinking of turning into a dedicated supermoto. Things a screamer and loves top end wide open stuff
Dont know about prices yet though as my wr300 was plated already.

yeah I know we have AC power on the bike and the dual sport kit came with dc power. I was just mainly wanting to know if I could simply tap into existing AC and skip the DC power that my dual sport kit came with. Didnt know if that would cause issues or what not

Better to run DC with a battery, like Harbinger said all AC. You need a regulator/rectifier if you want DC, I know that HID won't run on AC.
I converted my bike to DC with a battery and was running a Race HID for a 24hr race no problem and as a bonus you can put a horn on your bike to bug your buddies when they get stuck in front of you

Use the Tusk kit, run the headlight on AC and the other lts on the battery that comes with the kit , charge the battery when you get home, or buy a rectifier and voltage reg and convert the entire system to DC.

If you use a rectifier won't you loose half the power from the stator and need a rewind?

Believe the item needed is a Regulator/Rectifier.. Trailtech makes one: Part Number: 7003-RR150..

I recently bought one and will soon install it on my 2007 Husqvarna WR250.. Will need to make a
custom wiring harness so I can run hi/lo beam, turn signals, horn, gps, heated grips etc etc..

A friend Graham did a write up here: 04 WR250 Conversion to 12V DC with Battery.. Cheers..

I made a rectifier for my bike, it is really inexpensive and easy to make.

Another, more popular full-wave rectifier design exists, and it is built around a four-diode bridge configuration. For obvious reasons, this design is called a full-wave bridge. (Figure below)


Full-wave bridge rectifier.

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/4.html

You can tap into it without any problems at all, since all lightbulbs can run on AC or DC if it isn't LED lights.

Most of the aftermarked LED taillights i have seen will run on AC or DC because they have a in built rectifier.

Only my two cents- Your question if you can tap into the Tail light wire section. I personally would not. Tail lights are only about 5-10 watts and wire or connections to that area might not be sized for this. You need to verify the Wire size and all pre-connections are rated for higher current before you tap into that area. A melt down would not be good! I would Use the wires from the Head Light system since they are rated for a 55 Watt headlight. I have no experience with your bike so i can only shot of some ideas to think about. A good regulator will save you time and trouble on the trail. Riding back with Flash lights is no fun! If you ever plan to hook up sensitive electronics like GPS or HID a good regulator and Battery is a must. Bike's not designed from the factory for battery are typically AC systems. Hooking into the wires from the bike would require some type of AC to DC regulator (as noted above) if you keep a battery and especially use HID or Charge phones or GPS. If not you would over charge the battery or blow the electronics. Water Proof Fuse holders in the proper places help for when the wires rub or get snagged. Solder all your connections and heat shrink. Vibrations and water will make crimps, wire nuts fail. Size your wires for the proper fuse sizes and loads to prevent melting. Good Luck!

Here in Europe we have 5/21 watt taillights. 5 w running lights and 21 w brake light.

That's the same way I did it, except I used a Trail Tech battery that is a lot smaller, one yellow wire to the frame and the other to the wire coming from the stator