125-200cc Suspension advice for CR144

Hi, I need some advice regarding the CR's suspension. Mines a 2014, and the forks are terrible. I have the springs set for my weight, and I put in the SDI free pistons in, but man they still suck. They deflect off everything, and I've been in-n-out on the clickers and clamps with no love. I saw on here someone mentioned they had the kayaba sss forks from a newer YZ, but can't seem to find the thread now. Does anyone have the details on this? Direct fit? Does it actually ride better?

The other option I guess is a revalve. But looking at the price, a set of used SSSs or a revalve, is pettry close. What's the consensus?

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You have SSS forks on the bike now if it's stock.

Ya, there are posts I found that said the same thing, and others that say they are different. Having taken them apart I feel very confident they are not the same as the 2006 and newer YZ SSS forks. Yes, they are KYB, but different internals.

Get the rear spring rate set up right first. Racetech have a website with spring rate recommendations which may help you. Rear spring rate does have an effect on fork performance by influencing geometry and weight transfer.

Thanks. I was close to 100 sag, but ran out of spring.

Though the resident suspension experts told me I had no idea what I was talking about, this oil made a huge difference in my CR150


https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=25&pcid=18

I own 2 sets of Husky KYB TC forks, a set of 07 YZF 250 SSS forks and a set of 2012 WR 450 SSS forks and I can tell you first hand that other than plastic spring perch that started in 2012 and rod length they are the same fork. They are called AOS on bikes other than Yamaha. From what I can find Yamaha owns the SSS name. Post a pic of the fork top.

From what I've read the valving in SSS forks is unique to YZs. Maxima 5wt and proper RT springs solved most of the issues with my OC forks. Ready to do valving, SKF seals and bushings and that Redline fork oil next.
Def get the rear right before judging the forks. If you're racing, seriously fast or just picky, suck it up and get the forks revalved.

Unique in what way? I do my own valving and other than the shim stacks most of them are the same. My 07 Yzf250 has the same pistons ect as my Husky forks just different shim stacks.

Revalve, If the valving is anything like the TXC's they would barely move unless you really hammered something. I took mine to a local guy who does a lot of work for the Pro's that train at Club MX along with AmPro Yamaha guys. His assessment of the stock valving stack was that it was borderline supercross settings. After just doing a hand compression test before opening them up, his comment was "wow, that's really stiff". Something you want to hear your girlfriend say, but not your suspension guy.... I did get a chance to ride a '14 TE310 and the stock suspension was so soft it was like riding a marshmallow.

All I can for sure on the changes are, that he replaced the ICS springs with lighter ones and softened the stack. We ended up going lighter on the fork springs and heavier on the shock than the Race Tech calculator called for. I am 230lbs and have .44kgs in the forks and a 6.2kg on the shock. Going stiffer on the rear spring really helped the feel of the front.

Whats your static sag?

If you can't get 100mm race sag then I'd suspect your spring is too soft, this would mean little or no static sag.
A too soft rear spring gives exaggerated geometry and weight transfer changes as the rear suspension tends to 'overreact' to load changes. This effectively makes you bike go from chopper to trials constantly, giving inconsistent front fork performance.
This is my unprofessional thinking and is subject to change without notice.

Has anyone tried stock yz valving? I found the info on the stock yz stack and thought that might be a good way to go. I will see if I can find that again if you want it Hammer

You can find stock valving at Valving Logic website.

Yamaha got the stock valving better than the rest but there is still a lot of gain to be had. My 08 yz125 and my 11 yz450 have both been revalved and both are crazy good now, especially the 450. I also use SKF seals and maxima synthetic oil. Springs and a revalve will usually set you back about $600 and there's nothing else on your bike you can do that will improve how well you can ride it as much as having the suspension dialed in specifically for you. I personally prefer getting my suspension done for a fast motocross A rider even though I'm an old woods C vet. I can go pretty good in some sections until my fitness and old age catches up with me. In the case of the 450 the faster I go the better it works where as on my woods revalved Husky wr250 when I start pushing it I start bottoming it out and it gets sketchy... In all fairness my Husky is super plush in the rocks and logs which is what I asked the suspension tuner to focus on. The reason I'm writing all this is to make the point that you need to communicate with your suspension guy to get what you want.

There is a good thread on ThumperTalk on valving the SSS forks.

Thanks for the input. Called FC to revalve both ends, probably a shock spring too. Looking forward to their response when they open them up. Hopefully, they were way off for what I need, and it's not that I just suck at riding.

Following up to close the loop...

After rebuilding my forks with the SDI free piston and new springs per the race tech recommendation ( i think it was .38kg) I still wasn't comfortable anywhere, turns, jumps, tight single track, rough chop,...etc. I surrendered and sent the suspension to factory connection for a revalve. Its been a few months and it really is night and day. They went with a stiffer springs up front and softer in the rear. Also, put different springs on the free piston assembly. Once I put it on the bike I checked the sag and it was perfect. I have yet to even change a clicker. I wish I would have saved the time and money and sent it off in the first place...live and learn.

Glad you've got it sorted and now enjoying it.

Thank you for closure.