If by "suspension" you mean dampening, then yes. It makes the suspension travel react slower on impact.
ya i tend to group it all together sorry. and it works the same on the rear shock as it does on the forks im guessing? this is to get it stiffer for jumps until i can get my bike setup for my weight after the isde
The first thing you set up is the correct spring weight for your combined bike and body weight. Then you make sure that the sag is set correctly. Then you set up the dampening adjustments. If your suspension still does not work to your liking at that point, then you have the shim stacks redone. But if you were to do any one of those adjustments without the other, you would never get your suspension set correctly, because spring rate, sag and dampening all have to work together like an orchestra. One part not set correctly and the whole thing will be out of tune.
thanks! im gettin er sprung for my weight but i have to wait. i was just wanting to get it a lil stiffer for the landings for the time being.
I think of 'open' and 'close' on the valves ... Opening the valves allows more oil to be by-passed by the suspension components and the ride will be softer ...closing the valves forces more oil through the system and the ride will be stiffer ... this is on the compression side .., rebound is the same but I think quicker and slower instead of softer and stiffer for the stroke action...I hate any bouncing on landings so I ended up with a slow rebound stroke ... The rear shock probably has a low and high-speed compression adjuster ...
Fork: In/+ = slower, stiffer Out/- = faster, softer Shock: Same- sans HS/LS dampers: HS: chop, square edges (read shaft speed, not bike speed), etc. LS: whoops, jumps, G's etc. There's an overlap and tansition zone on these dual adjustable compression speed dampers as well- where it is depends on your model, have fun with that.... I usually back my HS 3/4 or most of the way out and adjust just the low speed as necesarry, more for Dez (sand and rollers), less for trail (rocks, chop, ledges).
Opening that HS setting up towards the MAX finally helped my rear stay down much better on the faster trails and roads instead of buck jumping so much ...
