Just wondering where everybody else is setting there rear shock..static and loaded sag? What position are y'all using on rebound and what height are y'all setting your fork tubes in the triples... I just got my terra a week ago and yesterday was my first time on rough forest service roads... The front felt fine but at 40-50mph when I would hit a big pot hole or I the road went washboard the back would clunk and I would instantly lose forward momentum because the rear tire was not in contact with the ground... The bike is set as stock from the factory now with the preload on 3 and rebound 9 clicks out ...front forks are set with the line below the cap 1mm above the triple... Do you think it's two stiff in the rear causing it to bounce up or rebound is too stiff not letting the shock rebound back to the ground fast enough.... Side note I weight 180-185 ...thanks any input would be great..
The stock shock doesn't handle square bumps at all properly but when I posted to see if anyone had bought and fitted an aftermarket shock, all I gotr was posts saying how fine the std shock was. Which it isn't. I have a Strada so a terra should show a the problem earlier off road. I live in a small town nowdays so no acces to a decent suspension place. I will pursuue it more in the new year after my operation injuries heal up and I can do stuff again.
I weigh 220#, 5'9" with a 32" inseam. I haven't set my sag yet. However, I have raised my fork tubes 1/2" in the triples and placed my rear shock one setting softer on the rear shock. I find my bike very well planted but the rebound of the forks could be better. Sag next.
For a Dual Sport Bike out of the box it works really well IMO but I really need a dirt bike..... Safari Tank fitted adds around 24kg and I am 100kg/220lbs. Had the rear on the 4th notch from softest went 4 clicks softer compression. Put the fork leg caps flush with the top triple clamp for some extra stability and less headshake. Find it terrible at finding traction at both ends. Pro-Moto Suspension currently has my bike for a couple more weeks. A really experienced guy that should be able to get this all working much better without throwing cash away at brand name products. 25mm or 1" length added to front forks as I have run out of adjustment. New springs have been ordered F+R. Modifying the fronts valving and re-build and re-valve the rear shock. Cheers, Q
I'd be very interested in learning the specifics of your shock rebuild when you are finished. Our weights are similar.
I am 80 kg and I think the rear spring rate is a touch stiff so the Safari tank will hopefully get it into the ball park. Front I haven't played with yet but a revalve will almost certainly be necessary for dirt road touring. Fork springs will have to wait until I can see if if can get the Safai tank to fit properly ( It certainly doesn't at the moment) and fill it to do a suspension check. I may have to remove the airbox and build a new one. I had been working on Sally's DRZ and now have had an operation so everything is on hold until I can do stuff again.
I agree, the rear is too stiff. I came of a little 1-2ft drop, the front soaked it up good, but the rear was really harsh. And considering I would probably never camp with this bike, the shock would need some attention. On the flip side I'd hate to loose any on-road handling.
This previously used half rooted d908rr Did this- How hard would have a new tyre srubbed? Glad I didn't fit a new d606 as they are taller again. So hoping to get the rear suspension upgraded/modded to stop this happening, and hope to run a d606 rear tyre. Anyone else seen this scrubbing? I was trying hard to keep up with some WR450's on some fire trails Sooooo another TR650 owner I know, has just got his forks back from Pro-Moto Suspension. Nothing but positive feedback. Word is the oem springs are .68 and were kept. 25mm bush machined for a longer leg and some valve tuning was the only changes. He sounded very impressed. Rumour only, is that some .73 springs were ordered for mine because of the Safari Tank. Can't wait to try it out
Can you explain the bushing? Is it a .25mm long bushing? Is this shorter or longer than stock? How was it valved? Emulator?
Sorry I'm not real helpful as I know SFA about how it all works. I'll find out more info for you guys from the suspension guru when I get the bike back (and respectfuly only if he is ok with it of course). Bushing/Spacer is 25mm or around the 1" mark. This has nothing to do with the suspension tuning as such, this is just for making the legs longer as more travel isn't simply available . My understanding of it is, that the chromed stanchion tubes are removed from the axle castings. The alluminium bushing fits in the bottom of the axle casting keeping the stanchion tube 25mm up from bottoming out in the axle casting. Soooo.... the bushing would be the same diametre of the stanchion (is it 46mm), then 25mm thick with a center hole for a new longer bolt that needs to pass through it to bolt it all back together. Hope that sort of makes sense. Valves, ummmmmm......... thats why I'm leaving that to the experts. He did mention not ever seeing anything quite like it and was kind of similar to an ill thought out KTM 65. I got the impression he had more than 1 idea to try out. Emulators were not mentioned, but using shims behind a oem valve (that seemed necessary to keep) to increase slow speed resistance to reduce bottoming out was. The suspebnsion brief- "I should have bought a 690, but lets see what happens" Tune this bike for high speed dirt roads but also capable on fire trails. I am 35yo who likes to ride way faster than I sensibly should. 100kg rider Front forks- more travel and height as I'm all out of adjustment. Seems high speed travel is too slow but low speed bumps makes it bottom out often. Rear shock- spring seems ok, doesn't deal with square edges, compression seems too slow, rebound seems too quick. Tyre scrubbing. with Safari Tank (up to another 24kg). Often with luggage at 10kg but could get to 30 odd kg's for a desert trip. Never 2-up as I have a R1200GS for that and she has a F700GS anyways. Cheers, Q
As Quirky has said I had my forks revavled by Pro moto suspension. I took it for a run on Sunday 1st ride back in 5 months after shattering every bone in my foot courtesy of the Terra not wanting to turn. Anyway I have to say the work that has been done has made this bike completely different. It wants to turn on the loose stuff, no head shake on the tar & just soaks up the bumps. I was waiting for it to twitch in the corners or dive under brakes & it did none of this. I think it would of been even better if the rider wasn't being a little soft. I was running the forks about 12mm through the top clamp & once I start getting a bit more confidence back I will play with the adjustment some more. Now I have an extra 25mm to play with. Next time out will have to be in some tight stuff to see how it goes. Cheers Rod
I don't know a whole lot about suspension, but I have the tendency to believe that a 400+ pound adventure bike at dirt bike speeds is only asking for trouble in both suspension and braking performance. This bike was built with the idea that you were going to load it down with a bunch of camping gear and head for the wild blue yonder at a moderate pace. For this, I feel the bikes suspension hit it's mark almost perfectly. I would rather take it over a technical section loaded down than not and that is exactly what I want. That being said, sending off your suspension to the guru is a fantastic idea…..if you are not using the bike for it's intended purpose. But as soon as you do that you will ruin the bikes ability to travel loaded, which is fine if you ride the bike almost exclusively unladen. Quirky and Rod65 seem to fall in this category so I am sure there are many others. Great thread!
Almost agree with Mr. FabOneUp. With one reservation though - original suspension is prepared for riders of 160-170 kg in mind. For more weight it needs just less preload, be it big tank, riding 2-up plus some gear. And guess what ?!? This This bike does not have front suspension preload adjustment... so, at least it needs new springs.
The front is a little to stiff for me unloaded and a little too soft loaded. I will leave it soft. When I am fully loaded and climbing a rocky pass, it eats it up like candy. It only bottoms occasionally at speed….a small price to pay. That Safari tank really puts on a whole new paint job. Sounds like owners are getting a grip on it though. The book of TR is only half written.
dude , didn't read the entire thread but that is hectic! I'm 265lb and loaded another 30lb to the back of my stock tr , done some single track and high speed dirt roads - never had that happen. I wanna get 606's but now not sure..
Pretty sure from memory that the secret compartment was only just touched. The worst rubbed bit was fuel tank. Maybe I just got a dud. The chain tension be a facter, my F..A.. is for sure. The other difference may or not be my bike is still new with an unworn chain and havent dropped a tooth from the front sprocket (YET, it's in the mail). So removing that alarm case might help after all.
