We have two huskys each with their own suspension 'issues' 1. TE450 05. Is the bottom of the fork the compression and the top near the handle bars rebound? For the bush i want it plusher. I had it set to 12 and 12. But i was think 14 on the bottom and 12 on the top (allow software compression and maintain fast rebound). I will test and ride a bit this weekend, but does this sound like a sensible approach? 2. TE450 08. My wife is about 60kg? I try to adjust the sag on the stock rear spring. To get 70mm of race sag i need to set about 70mm of static sag - i dont want to go any looser because i think it will get too bouncy. Does this mean the rear spring is too heavy for her weight? Appriciete any tips or suggestions
For the TE250: You should probably start with a 5.0 kg spring for her weight and see if that helps. then set the correct sag for that.
bottom is compression, top is rebound. what i've found (and many others), if you're 180 lbs or less, the front spring is way too stiff....(very brutal at slow speeds.) ..i'm 180 lbs and i went with .42 spring, and 12r, 14c. and dropped the front tubes down in triple trees very slightly (1st line..) you may want to use lighter weight fork oil also....revalving will also make a difference..
Ok i spoke to the suspension guy, his advice; you have clickers use them and test them After a long convo with him i got the fork to feel plush on bumps/hits but it felt like a pogo stick, super bouncy. i tried winding the comp out to 18 and the rebound in to 8 and all of a sudden it felt better, but not awesome. Only one ride on it so far...but it makes sense though to have the comp softer and the rebound less to get some plushness and reduce the bounciness I had read only that its important to keep rebound and comp within 5 clicks of each other. My suspension guy claims this isnt a rule at all...so i tried this. More tuning required, appreciate any tips
I don't guy the within 5 clicks either, however, depending on speed/conditions of ride, my guess is taking that rebound out some more will improve things more. (rebound will affect compression some) This just my opinion.....but (when springs are close to right) you start w/rebound first, then once set, move on to compression (actually rear sag first, correct tire pressure, then rebound - compression) Pay attention to how it feels when you hit a series of bumps/whoops. If starts ok but quickly feels harsh again, could be rebound isn't 'rebounding' quick enough and suspension is packing up on you.....not allowing it to extend fast enough to be ready for next hit. If you go too far/too light on rebound, front might try to push/wash out on corners Of course best, but most expensive way, is to have a pro shop do springs/revalve for the rider and thier conditions.....if a person can afford it, it's worth it.
I need to confirm the terminology. When you say take the rebound out, you mean more clicks anti clockwise from closed? Say from 8 to 10?
yep.......out from close (less dampening)......maybe to 12, but try a only couple clicks at a time until feels like too much, then back in one or two to where you liked it.